I have a '11 Silverado 5.3 with 118k miles. Bought it at 113k and changed oil at 115k April 1 2017 with Valvoline Himilage full synthetic. I'm retired so low mileage and some short trips. When I OC at 3k on April 1 2018 (one year) last time, oil looked very dirty/black. (reason for OC, was going to go for 10k but looked too dirty, Fram synthetic filter) Would that be because of not running long enough to get rid of moisture? What would be recommended for oil type, conv/syn, OCI, and Brand for this level of operating? Very little oil consumption and engine runs strong, auto trans and 4x4 all stock.
One year oil change
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Originally Posted by ALR
I have a '11 Silverado 5.3 with 118k miles. Bought it at 113k and changed oil at 115k April 1 2017 with Valvoline Himilage full synthetic. I'm retired so low mileage and some short trips. When I OC at 3k on April 1 2018 (one year) last time, oil looked very dirty/black. (reason for OC, was going to go for 10k but looked too dirty, Fram synthetic filter) Would that be because of not running long enough to get rid of moisture? What would be recommended for oil type, conv/syn, OCI, and Brand for this level of operating? Very little oil consumption and engine runs strong, auto trans and 4x4 all stock.
A one year oil change at those miles isn't out of the question. The dirty oil could be the result of the less than stellar oil that was used prior to you obtaining the truck and that could be the reason the oil was so black?
Any good quality synthetic that is inexpensive and meets your specs should be fine. I like Pennzoil but there are others out that will also meet your needs.
Some spirited/long drives (hwy) once in a while wouldn't hurt and should be done occasionally to get rid of moisture and fuel dilution.
I have a '11 Silverado 5.3 with 118k miles. Bought it at 113k and changed oil at 115k April 1 2017 with Valvoline Himilage full synthetic. I'm retired so low mileage and some short trips. When I OC at 3k on April 1 2018 (one year) last time, oil looked very dirty/black. (reason for OC, was going to go for 10k but looked too dirty, Fram synthetic filter) Would that be because of not running long enough to get rid of moisture? What would be recommended for oil type, conv/syn, OCI, and Brand for this level of operating? Very little oil consumption and engine runs strong, auto trans and 4x4 all stock.
A one year oil change at those miles isn't out of the question. The dirty oil could be the result of the less than stellar oil that was used prior to you obtaining the truck and that could be the reason the oil was so black?
Any good quality synthetic that is inexpensive and meets your specs should be fine. I like Pennzoil but there are others out that will also meet your needs.
Some spirited/long drives (hwy) once in a while wouldn't hurt and should be done occasionally to get rid of moisture and fuel dilution.
My mother in law uses Amsoil 5w20 in her 2009 CRV and it comes out really black. I think because it's still cleaning up all the conventional that was used in it before she bought it used but whatever... Makes it the entire year and runs great with a Wix filter.
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The oil is dirty or staying clean thing has never been resolved ... people argue both sides. It's clean after 2000 miles so it must be a good oil ... It gets dirty quickly because it's doing it's job ...
for 1 year 3K miles oci, you can use any oil. I use conventional in 2 of my cars that don't get driven as much. Some synthetics are same price as conventional ... 2011 is not that old so either oil should work.
good suggestion by irv, run the car for 30 min or more on high way every other week.
for 1 year 3K miles oci, you can use any oil. I use conventional in 2 of my cars that don't get driven as much. Some synthetics are same price as conventional ... 2011 is not that old so either oil should work.
good suggestion by irv, run the car for 30 min or more on high way every other week.
if you are going to one year changes you should probably use a synthetic oil rated for extended performance like Mobil 1 extended performance or annual protection, or Castrol Edge extended performance or AMSOil SS Oil. You should pair that oil with a synthetic oil filter like Fram Ultra, Mobil 1 extended performance, Royal Purple synthetic, or AMSOil Absolute Efficiency filter. Then put the day's date into your calendar to be changed on the same day the following year. You'll be saving reducing oil waste too.
if the oil doesn't say it will last at least the number of miles you'll drive, don't use it. Some oils just refuse to say that and thus offer no stated protection for extended oil changes. Some other oils probably would be on this list if they offered stated extended oil changes.
i had been changing my 2015 Versa Note annually until some other driver ran a red light with his pick-up and it was totaled. I bought a 2017 from Hertz and am planning to change to that at the next oil change at 40000 miles. Unless you're testing your oil, you should change it annually as nobody (OK there is one, but everyone here thinks they are not telling the truth) suggests going longer with out an oil analysis.
if the oil doesn't say it will last at least the number of miles you'll drive, don't use it. Some oils just refuse to say that and thus offer no stated protection for extended oil changes. Some other oils probably would be on this list if they offered stated extended oil changes.
i had been changing my 2015 Versa Note annually until some other driver ran a red light with his pick-up and it was totaled. I bought a 2017 from Hertz and am planning to change to that at the next oil change at 40000 miles. Unless you're testing your oil, you should change it annually as nobody (OK there is one, but everyone here thinks they are not telling the truth) suggests going longer with out an oil analysis.
A year? Change the oil when the oil life monitor says so to keep it really simple. Time based changes are ridiculous, especially that short. Use what you want, synthetic, conventional or even Amsoil if it helps one sleep better at night knowing it is cheap insurance... insert sarcasm.
Triple_Se7en
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In my opinion, oil life monitor oil changes are more ridiculous than time changes.
Never stretch-out oil life. For electronics and sensors don't always work right. Classic example is my Colorado 3.5, The monitor still flashes / blinks between 10-11K on the dashboard...... 14 years later and matters-not if I reset the monitor after an oil change, or not reset it.
I call them Idiot Lights.
Never stretch-out oil life. For electronics and sensors don't always work right. Classic example is my Colorado 3.5, The monitor still flashes / blinks between 10-11K on the dashboard...... 14 years later and matters-not if I reset the monitor after an oil change, or not reset it.
I call them Idiot Lights.
I think the first poster nailed it. I bought a rental mini-van and the first few changes with Pennzoil platinum were black at 5K. After about 5 changes, the 5K oil looked barely used. I think it cleaned out all the gunk left behind by the previous oil used by the rental company (probably cheap conventional)
I'd say keep changing it with a value cost synthetic (Supertech, Quaker State, Pennzoil, M1, Castrol, etc) No need for the fancy expensive stuff for your application.
I'd say keep changing it with a value cost synthetic (Supertech, Quaker State, Pennzoil, M1, Castrol, etc) No need for the fancy expensive stuff for your application.
Maybe I think too simple but I am in a similar situation. With this vehicle I would get PP 5w30 (I like the fact it is GTL, a true synthetic at a bargain basement price) when its on sale with Fram Ultra or Wix/Napa Gold and change it once a year. Don't over think it.
The oil change information is in the owner's manual. Works for me.
The only problem with that is the owners manual is as old as the vehicle, a lot changed in 8 years.
Originally Posted by BrianF
A year? Change the oil when the oil life monitor says so to keep it really simple. Time based changes are ridiculous, especially that short.
Doesn't the GM OLM include a time component? Many other mfg OLMs do.
A year? Change the oil when the oil life monitor says so to keep it really simple. Time based changes are ridiculous, especially that short.
Doesn't the GM OLM include a time component? Many other mfg OLMs do.
Originally Posted by Quattro Pete
Originally Posted by BrianF
A year? Change the oil when the oil life monitor says so to keep it really simple. Time based changes are ridiculous, especially that short.
Doesn't the GM OLM include a time component? Many other mfg OLMs do.
On my 2006 Duramax it does and its a year.
Originally Posted by BrianF
A year? Change the oil when the oil life monitor says so to keep it really simple. Time based changes are ridiculous, especially that short.
Doesn't the GM OLM include a time component? Many other mfg OLMs do.
On my 2006 Duramax it does and its a year.
Kestas
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I wouldn't waste gas just for the sake of running the car 30 min on the freeway every week. I'd rather spend the money on new oil.
If the OP is a short tripper, he should change the oil more often. Synthetic would be a waste in this case, assuming he can get conventional oil cheaper.
If the OP is a short tripper, he should change the oil more often. Synthetic would be a waste in this case, assuming he can get conventional oil cheaper.
My thoughts on annual oil changes are changing. A relative recently asked me about helping with an oil change. The vehicle is a 2010 Toyota RAV4. The oil was Mobil 1 5W-20. Mileage was 2,000 miles over a 2 year period. My first thought was that it needed an immediate change but sent a sample off to Blackstone.
Long story short - they recommend running it for 2,000 more miles.
Long story short - they recommend running it for 2,000 more miles.
Originally Posted by RW1
My thoughts on annual oil changes are changing. A relative recently asked me about helping with an oil change. The vehicle is a 2010 Toyota RAV4. The oil was Mobil 1 5W-20. Mileage was 2,000 miles over a 2 year period. My first thought was that it needed an immediate change but sent a sample off to Blackstone.
Long story short - they recommend running it for 2,000 more miles.
Yeah, specially with a good full synthetic, if the yearly driving distance is low enough, you can run the same oil for years, 4 or 5 even.
My thoughts on annual oil changes are changing. A relative recently asked me about helping with an oil change. The vehicle is a 2010 Toyota RAV4. The oil was Mobil 1 5W-20. Mileage was 2,000 miles over a 2 year period. My first thought was that it needed an immediate change but sent a sample off to Blackstone.
Long story short - they recommend running it for 2,000 more miles.
Yeah, specially with a good full synthetic, if the yearly driving distance is low enough, you can run the same oil for years, 4 or 5 even.
Lot of great advice guys. Biggest concern was sludge. Thinking it was cleaning engine from previous runs. Truck looked very clean and taken care of and looked like major miles were on hiway after checking history of mpg/hours/gallons used on the clock. mostly used valvoline due to claim of seal treatment. IIRC oil monitor was 40%. Whatever the reasoning, I am sleeping better after changing and price of oil is cheap insurance. We will see what the next couple of changes show... Thanks guys!
I had a vehicle for many years that I put 3 or 4 thousand miles a year on. Changed it once a year, never had a problem.
My last 2 cars got once a year oil changes. I was doing mostly city 5 to 6k a year. Each one lasted over 8 years. One used Maxlife and other got Synthetic on sale which I put 50k on each car. I got rid of each one for problems not related to oil. I now have 18 Grand Caravan which I will follow OLM or once a year with whatever synthetic that meets spec on sale.
The wife's car goes out of warranty this month and mine does the same in six months time. Being retired neither of us does huge mileage anymore so I'll start changing the oil every two years. IMO, this is perfectly safe. Not a lot happens to oil when it's cold & just sitting in your sump. Sludge is very much a thing of the past with synthetic oils and gasolines which themselves are loaded up to the gunnels with antioxidants.
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