old school hot rod

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: built
good advice,thanks.

been wanting an excuse to go purple,lol.
now to find the racing purple and not just regular purple.
or is the regular very good too.


Ok, 1st off let me state I was not trying to steer you towards Royal Purple or any other brand specifically. I use RP and like it but I don't try and force that on others. Redline would be another very good oil for your application. Redline also has an additive for their oils that increase ZDDP. I personally would run RP or RL in your application but I am sure there are others oils that would be good too. Brad Penn does a really good high ZDDP oil as well but they don't offer any synthetics. Just high performance conventional oils. They claim they are for high performance street/strip cars though so it may fit your bill.

I really don't know enough about your engine, other than it is souped up some( how much? ), and just how much abuse you will put it through to say a regular SL oil will do or if you should jump up to a Racing oil? Seeing as you say it will be driven on the street often I tend to think the regular oil will do but maybe with your mod's the racing oil would be better?

My advice is to do what I do when I am unsure which to go with. That is to contact the tech departments at the oil mfg's you are interested in and let them know about your engine and mod's plus how you will use it and they will recommend the right oil for you. At RP ask for David Canitz who is head of Tech Support. Great guy who won't steer you wrong.

RP's regular oil is excellent. I run it in my DD's and I have run it in muscle cars and mildly modded hot rods and drag cars. I have friends who have done the same and it has done great. One friend even ran the regular RP in a really hopped up Olds 455( 11 second drag car )with no problems. Their racing oil is excellent as well. There is a guy on here with a souped up HEMI that had bad luck with it but in my experience it is excellent.

Again, contact RP and RL, or even Brad Penn, and ask which oil is right for you. Also, when available you can use the dealer locator function to find local sources for the oils..

Royal Purple:
Home Page - http://www.royalpurple.com
Tech Support - [email protected] ( put attaention David Canitz in subject field )
Dealer Locator - http://royalpurple.findlocation.com

Redline:
Home Page - http://www.redlineoil.com/default.asp
Tech Support - http://www.redlineoil.com/tech_requests.asp
Dealer Locator - http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.asp

Brad Penn:
Home Page - http://www.bradpennracing.com/
Tech Support - http://www.bradpennracing.com/contact.asp
Dealer Locator - None shown

Hope this helps you out. Good luck.

 

[built]

thanks for the help.
I called all the dealers ( auto stores ) in my area and no one stocks the racing oil, only the regular purple.
My engine has had plenty of mods, bored stroked balanced chevy sb( 383 )
around 500 hp.

 

[Taylor]

You don't necessarily need ZDDP, do you?

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: built
thanks for the help.
I called all the dealers ( auto stores ) in my area and no one stocks the racing oil, only the regular purple.
My engine has had plenty of mods, bored stroked balanced chevy sb( 383 )
around 500 hp.


Well, 500 HP from a SB Chevy is definitely premium oil territory IMO. A "Racing Oil" is probably a better bet than a standard oil and I would personally run nothing less than a blend and preferrably full synthetic.

As to RP. Give David Canitz at RP a shout and see what he says about their standard SL oils. He won't tell you to use it if it isn't a good choice. The guys at RP don't recommend the wrong thing just to make a sale.

When you say you called all the dealers in your area do you mean you called the retailers for RP from RP's locater list in OH or do you mean you just called the local auto parts stores that carry RP to inquire? There are a handful of retailers( speed shops, lubricant specialists, etc... )in OH in addition to the auto parts stores and I am sure any one of them can get the racing oil for you in a day or two at most if they don't stock it.

Another option for you is Summit Racing. They have a retail store in Tallmadge, OH. Not sure how close that is for you though? However, Summit does 5W-30, 10W-40, and 20W-50 in the RP XPR Racing oil. So if the store is within reasonable driving distance you could make the trip there for the racing oil. I would just call first to make sure they have it in stock( they can get it in for you in very short order if not ).

You could also try these guys. They sell RP( racing and regular )and Brad Penn. They have decent prices for product and shipping. They had a post in the For Sale forum here for a while but those links don't work anymore. Use this one( BTW - they show Brad Penn as a blend not a straight conventional )...

http://www.scpraceparts.com/lubricants

Another option for you is one of the newer Valvoline Racing/High Performance oils( VR1 or Roush ). I have seen the VR1 oils in AutoZone and other stores that carry Valvoline. They have a conventional( blend? ) VR1 and a full synthetic VR1 formula. The Roush oil is full synthetic.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/high-performance-motor-oil/

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: Taylor
You don't necessarily need ZDDP, do you?


All engines need zinc and phosphorus to some extent. He has a hi HP engine with flat tappets which means he needs extra wear protection. A SM oil would not be a good choice for this application unless a ZDDP booster was used.

 

[FrankN4]

Originally Posted By: built
frankN4, what do friction modifiers do ,what are they ?

I like the sound of 1350 to 1600 zn.


Please consider this a quick crash course in FM. It may entertain some folk but it is reasonably accurate as a decent overview of FM. The rest of you, please keep laughter and weeping to a minimum.

Lets say you have a quality SM oil in your engine. It will contain anti wear adds such as ZDDP. As your oil circulates around your crank journal and journal bearings, it leaves a coating of phosphorus on you journal and bearings as an anti wear. The phosphorus in ZDDP is excellent anti wear but it is high friction. That is to say, if you lose your boundry lubrication, oil film/wedge, you will have phosphorus against phosphorus to protect your bearings and journal. But, phosphorus against phosphorus is a high friction contact. Now FM(friction modifiers) come into play. FM may be organic and do not show up on VOA or UOA. Sometimes small quantities of MOLY DTC is used as a FM and will show up. FM does not protect nearly as well as ZDDP(AW anti wear).

If your oil has FM, you will have your journal and bearing, a coating of phosphorus, and a coating of FM. Now you lose or begin to lose your oil film/wedge. As a first line defense, you will have FM against FM. FM shears easily(low friction) but does not give the protection of high shear(high friction) phosphorus, however, it may be just enough or it may give enough time to limit phosphorus against phosphorus until oil film/wedge is restored. a low/lower friction encounter, a modified encounter, friction modifier.

This is highly oversimplified but it will give you the idea, I hope.

 

[built]

Thanks, I found a local retailer who can order it, also jegs can order it and be here in a couple days.

I'll just have to plan my changes and make orders.

 

[built]

Thanks guys, NHhemi, I contacted david and he said the regualr 10w40 or 15w40 would be fine for my car, seems hard to belive because i thought the zinc levels were low in those, he said the best would be the racing oil but he also said it is 15 bucks a quart, i didn't know that !

What do you think ?

 

[NHHEMI]

Originally Posted By: built
Thanks guys, NHhemi, I contacted david and he said the regualr 10w40 or 15w40 would be fine for my car, seems hard to belive because i thought the zinc levels were low in those, he said the best would be the racing oil but he also said it is 15 bucks a quart, i didn't know that !

What do you think ?


The 10W-40 is API SL so it has a lot more ZDDP than an SM oil would. The difference is something like up to 1100 PPM in SL is allowed and only up to 800 PPM in SM. The 15W-40 is a diesel oil and they always have more anti wear additives.

David knows his stuff so he wouldn't intenntionally tell you something wrong. My friend ran the RP 10W-40 in his extremely hopepd up 455 Olds 442 that had to be pushing 500 HP easy. Never had any problems from the oiling system. Just starters which couldn't turn that sucker over and kept frying.

Yeah, the XPR racing oil is not cheap.

This has to be your decision( obviously ). I can only say either of the RP oils would make ME comfortable if it were in MY vehicle. You have some other options like the Brad Penn and Valvoline racing and Roush oils too.

Best of luck and let me know what you go with.

 

[FrankN4]

If you are thinking along the lines of a 15W-40, consider Mobil 1 15W-50. It is a SM oil, it has 40C cSt of 131.2, a 100C cSt of 18.1, a HTHS of 4.5, and 1200 ZDDP. It is barely thicker than a 15W-40 and has excellent cold flow and high temp protection, plus all that ZDDP, and is available at Walmart.

You can also get Mobil 1 full synthetic motorcycle oil at Walmart. You can get it in 10W-40 and 20W-50. They have ZDDP in the 1600-1800 range.

 

[built]

Thanks Nhhemi.I have read that 1200 ppm is needed for good protection of flat tappets, maybe 1100 is fine.

Frank, the cycle oil is back to not having friction modifiers again as posted above, not sure i should do that.