old school hot rod

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southern ohio
I have a high performance sb chevy with flat tappets and high pressure springs,Is there a off the shelf engine oil with high enough levels of additives to protect my engine on the street.
 

built

Thread starter
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232
Location
southern ohio
Thanks for the replys, mobile 1 sounds pretty good, any other choices like that in the 1200 ppm of zinc or other good additives for wear. I have read here alot of conflicting opinions on adding redline or any additives to oil, not sure which is correct.
 

Kestas

Staff member
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The Motor City
One more iota of information... Mobil 0W-40 has moly additives that Mobil 5W-40 does not. This can be important for boundary lubrication conditions.
 
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1,093
Location
Kentucky
10W-30, 10W-40, and 20W-50 synthetic motorcycle oils have levels of ZDDP from around 1350 to around 1600. They also have very good HTHS. What they do not have is friction modifiers. but, neither do most HDEO diesel oils.
 
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222
Location
Fort Erie, ON
 Originally Posted By: built
I have a high performance sb chevy with flat tappets and high pressure springs,Is there a off the shelf engine oil with high enough levels of additives to protect my engine on the street.
Widman's Corvair Oil article suggests that all the anti-wear additives required for valve train protection are contained in CH-4 / CI-4 HDEOs.
 Originally Posted By: widman
It is important to note that the API does not qualify oils based on additive levels, but on performance. Performance is determined by base oil and additives. As you will see later, different base oils need different additives for optimum performance. It is the combination of additives and base oil that gives performance and protection. The API Service MS (known as “SB” today) oils had little or no detergent and approximately 250 ppm (parts per million) of zinc combined with 200 ppm of phosphorous. A good CI-4 oil in the market today has 1200 to 1400 ppm of zinc and 1000 to1200 ppm of phosphorous.
 Originally Posted By: widman
Low quality oil or excessively high metallic anti-wear additives (ZDDP, Moly, etc.) in the oil increase the deposits. See below for the need to balance cleanliness with anti-wear.
 Originally Posted By: widman
Since the additives are polar, they fight for surface area. The addition of ZDDP usually results in reduced cleanliness, higher engine temperatures and more deposits. Some studies have shown that going past 1400 ppm of phosphorus will increase wear over the long term, and going above 2000 ppm will begin to break down iron and result in camshaft spalling.
 Originally Posted By: widman
If you want the maximum valve train protection, look for an oil that is certified CH-4/SL or CI-4/SL without CJ-4. If the CH-4 or CI-4 comes before the SL, that is fine. Oils that are only SL certified have less anti-wear additives.
Blatantly added link for Search Engine Optimization: ACCCC Engine Oil Article
 
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6,917
Location
NH
Royal Purple regular oils( SL rated )are a good choice as are their Racing oils with extra zinc/phosphorous. I have run them in many hot rods and muscle cars with excellent results. Just another option for you.
 
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built

Thread starter
Messages
232
Location
southern ohio
Well i thought maybe bike oil was going to be a good choice but without friction modifiers maybe it would cause more wear but i read alot of people are using diesel oils and no word of wearing issues. so I don't know the answer on that. I guess the added cost of royal purple might be worth it.
 
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Northern, NY
What are you running for valve springs? The SBC in my camaro has a pretty stout flat tappet cam with comp. #987 (370 lbs/in) valve springs. It has over 100 quarter mile passes on it with Valvoline VR1 20w50. I have also used 15w40 in the spring and fall with good results. Some of my friends have "Model A" coupes and roadsters with old school SBC's, I have them running 15w40 HDEO's with great results. If you have trouble finding a CI-4 rated 15w40 at your local auto parts store, try your local John Deere dealer. They sell JD 15w40 Plus 50 in quarts.
 
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CA

built

Thread starter
Messages
232
Location
southern ohio
Not sure on the spring pressure. I have the biggest hyd. voodoo cam so it's pretty stout. this is a street/strip car and i have heard negative things about using a race only oil in a street car so i am unsure whats true or just myths. 50 bucks for each oil change is kinda rough,lol.
 
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6,917
Location
NH
When I am planning maintenance for a new vehicle( I get a new truck every 2-3 years max - $40K +/- purchase price ), or for a hot rod or muscle car that I souped the engine up in, the cost of the OC is the least of my concerns. I have spent so much on the initial purchase price or the building of the engine that I only want to use the best oil for it. $50 for oil a couple times a year is nothing. Actually, IMO, spending a little more for premium oil and filters actually saves you money as the engine last longer and is less likely to suffer a failure due to high RPM use if a high performance application like yours. Doesn't sound to me like your application is a candidate for cheap oil. Sounds like you need a premium synthetic and top of the line filter. Obviously you have some cash sunk into this vehicle. Don't cheap out on OC's. You don't have to run the most expensive oil out there but pick a good one. You clearly are going to ask a lot of the engine( ie; racing and high RPM use )so don't start cheaping out on oil changes. That is one area where you should go with the best oil and filter can find and afford IMO anyway.
 
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built

Thread starter
Messages
232
Location
southern ohio
good advice,thanks. been wanting an excuse to go purple,lol. now to find the racing purple and not just regular purple. or is the regular very good too.
 
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