Old oil OK for 20-min flush?

[rob-the-oil-nut]

I have some old (15+ years) oil, found some (not mine!) in the garage. Can I use it to run it in the lawn mower for 20 mins of running, but not cutting? (there is no idle or throttle on this engine, it's a B&S of about 5 hp, I haven't even seen it in 5-7 months. The mower is maybe 2 years old with no obvious problems) There are a few viscosities of old oil in our garage, so an older 20W50 might actually be a 15W40 (or a straight 90 by now

If I sent the old oil for VOA, anything in particular to ask for or tell the lab people?
Also, I recall a thread about the manufacturer dictating straight-30 (which I have from last summer) but that Diesel-grade 15W40 works better. I just read http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=14;t=000166
It's a must-read; BUT sadly I won't be putting in RedLine in a lawn mower (too costly). Nor will I spend $4 in shipping for Schaeffers. GC is too thin, no? That means buy el cheapo Diesel-rated 15W40, or splurge and get premium, synthetic, Diesel-rated 15W40. Comments? Ideas?
Sorry but I'm a bit balky at A-RX, FP / LC on a lawn mower. Then again, on a lazy summer afternoon, I just might

[ April 12, 2004, 01:58 AM: Message edited by: rob-the-oil-nut ]

 

[n8wvi]

I ran Delvac 1300 (15w-40) last summer. Mostly I was looking to make the initial 'pull' easier than with a straight 30 weight and it did help greatly. I think this year I'll try Pennzoil Longlife 15w40.

Dave

 

[Bror Jace]

rob, are you serious? There are plenty of people using 15 year old oil in their lawn mowers ...

... it's the same oil that came with the mower when they purchased it 15 years ago.

For a quick flush? Yeah, I'd use that old stuff without reservation.

--- Bror Jace

 

[Slick 55]

GC 0W30 would be ideal as it is almost a 40 weight.

 

[rob-the-oil-nut]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Brett Miller:
GC 0W30 would be ideal as it is almost a 40 weight.

---

I was just kinda inclined to keep the GC for my car (sure, Rob; planning on what to put in 13 months ahead of time??)

and for half the price, get a 15W40.

I guess I have several questions about that old oil. What do I tell the lab when I do the "V" OA; is there a way of reducing the speed of the mower without increasing the load? How much should I spend on the final fill? (GC here is $6.66, I am not making that up. I even asked if they got complaints since some might find that religiously offensive

Thanks y'all!!
Rob-the-oil-nut

I got my by-pass filter installed today! (note to self: 120290 km on odo) The mechanic said he'd do it for $200 and came to eat his words, it was 5 to 7 hours work....Hey, how many of YOU BITOG-ers out there tip mechanics??

 

[The_Jeff]

If you take the starter rope assembly off, you can access the flap that attaches to the throttle. The fan part of the flywheel blows on this flap and governs engine speed.

You'll find a spring you can bend for a permanent change or disconnect for experimenting. Or just hold a finger on this fan flap.

To start the mower with the rope assembly off, use a 12 point 7/8" (maybe 3/4"?) socket on the square shaft coming out of the engine. Put this on a drill or impact wrench; air powered preferably.