OLD (GREEN) Kendall GT-1 SAE 40 motor oil. Can I use it in a 2000 Camry?

[Mizter Pink]

Hi kids:

Happy Sunday!

I'm a long time reader (20+ years) of this forum. Thanks to everyone for the info here. OK here we go. I apologize if this is posted in the wrong section. Mods, please be kind to the newb.

I found 2 cases of the above listed motor oil. It's in black quart bottles. I called Kendall and gave them what I believe to be the julian date code stamped on the bottle. They were unable to give me any info. Not a big deal but it would have been cool to know exactly how old the oil is. I poured one of the quarts into a clear bottle and it is for sure that awesome bluish green kinda like nyquil looking color. The oil visually looks clean but who knows what's lurking inside it. So, I should just send in a virgin sample to the lab to have it analyzed but what if I don't do that and use the oil without knowing? What is the worst that could happen ?(complete engine failure lol). Here are some facts.

1. I want to use "test" this oil in a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 CYL 2.2L 5S-FE. Car has 217K miles on it. Oil changes have been dino oil it's whole life n drives like a dream.

2. I know the GT-1 oil is thicker. Toyota calls for 5W-30.

3. The outside ambient temps under which the oil will be used is over 100 degrrees outside daily in the summer. My plan is to use it this summer and see how it performs under these extreme outside temps.

4. My understanding is that most of the additives "if any" in this oil are depleted by now.

5. I would inspect the oil religiously, and not go over 3000 miles per oil change (I have 3 cases of this stuff, which equals roughly 9 oil changes.)

Because it's not a multiweight oil, maybe it will put wear on the engine at startup when cold? Again, coldest it gets in summer here is 75 degrees.

I read all the posts here about OLD KENDALL GREEN OIL before posting this and i'm still ??? using it.

This is my first post here. Please don't laugh me out of here with my questions. Deep down my brain is telling me "don't be stupid, just use the correct oil." BUT, I have this curiosity killed the cat thing where I like doing these types of 'experiments'. So, any feedback is appreciated.



-Mizter Pink

 

[Chris142]

What's the api rating on the back of the bottles? If sealed where do you think the addatives went?

Will it work? Yes. Is it a good choice. Probably not.

 

[Greasymechtech]

1. Certified sludge monster.... easily avoidable with proper interval. I would inspect under the valve cover. If well maintained, it'll be very clean. If not, adapt!
2. If warm enough, the SAE40 will work fine. Don't ask me how I know... hint hint.
3. Summer only is a smart plan.
4. I doubt it. Oil is fine if in its sealed bottle. Give it a good shake and don't worry about it.
5. I'd recommend that with any conventional and the 2.2/3.0 Camry sludgeamatics. 3k is smart.

The other option is to spike the sump with 1-2 quarts of the SAE 40, use the rest with whatever 5w30, and worry less, even if there is nothing to worry about.

 

[eagle14]

Hi kids:

Happy Sunday!

I'm a long time reader (20+ years) of this forum. Thanks to everyone for the info here. OK here we go. I apologize if this is posted in the wrong section. Mods, please be kind to the newb.

I found 2 cases of the above listed motor oil. It's in black quart bottles. I called Kendall and gave them what I believe to be the julian date code stamped on the bottle. They were unable to give me any info. Not a big deal but it would have been cool to know exactly how old the oil is. I poured one of the quarts into a clear bottle and it is for sure that awesome bluish green kinda like nyquil looking color. The oil visually looks clean but who knows what's lurking inside it. So, I should just send in a virgin sample to the lab to have it analyzed but what if I don't do that and use the oil without knowing? What is the worst that could happen ?(complete engine failure lol). Here are some facts.

1. I want to use "test" this oil in a 2000 Toyota Camry 4 CYL 2.2L 5S-FE. Car has 217K miles on it. Oil changes have been dino oil it's whole life n drives like a dream.

2. I know the GT-1 oil is thicker. Toyota calls for 5W-30.

3. The outside ambient temps under which the oil will be used is over 100 degrrees outside daily in the summer. My plan is to use it this summer and see how it performs under these extreme outside temps.

4. My understanding is that most of the additives "if any" in this oil are depleted by now.

5. I would inspect the oil religiously, and not go over 3000 miles per oil change (I have 3 cases of this stuff, which equals roughly 9 oil changes.)

Because it's not a multiweight oil, maybe it will put wear on the engine at startup when cold? Again, coldest it gets in summer here is 75 degrees.

I read all the posts here about OLD KENDALL GREEN OIL before posting this and i'm still ??? using it.

This is my first post here. Please don't laugh me out of here with my questions. Deep down my brain is telling me "don't be stupid, just use the correct oil." BUT, I have this curiosity killed the cat thing where I like doing these types of 'experiments'. So, any feedback is appreciated.



-Mizter Pink

First thing: do no harm.

What is the API code on the bottles, e.g., SF, SE, SD etc., and how does that compare to the owner's manual's specs. As top-up oil it might be fine in a 4-5 quart sump but any more than that.....
HTH

 

[JavierH19]

Definitely. I'd've been using a 40 grade since new anyway. Though not an sae 40 unless it was the summer and on a bargain as 15w-40 is better.

But that old oil is just fine for that old engine. Just pour out about 2/3rds or so out and vigorously shake the rest. No point in shaking up a full bottle. And no the bit of foam that'll form isn't an issue.

 

[Mizter Pink]

Chris142: Great question. Sorry I forgot that very pertinent information.

API SERVICE SJ

Greasymechtech: Can u please elaborate on your comment "1. Certified sludge monster". r u saying that the car itself is a sludgemonster, or by using kendall GT-1 sae 40 will make it a sludgemonster? Sorry 4 my ignorance. i'm still learning.​

eagle14: Page 226 of owners manual states: USE API GRADE SJ "ENERGY CONSERVING" OR ILSAC MULTIGRADE ENGINE OIL.​

Thanks 4 the quick replies.

 

[Mizter Pink]

I just noticed at the bottom right corner of the label it says. Rev. 04/01, so this oil is at least 22 years old according to my math (which is usually wrong by, lol).

I just replaced the valve cover gasket. Car does burn about 1/2 qt. every 3k miles which in my book is totally acceptable for 217k mile car.

 

[Greasymechtech]

The 2.2/3.0 were extended warranty class action lawsuit sludge monsters, for the fools that ran >7500 mile conventional intervals with low oil level from normal consumption, never topping off, and practicing the American way of always being just a little late with oil changes, or only admitting to forgetting 1 or 2 changes after it seized. Cost cutters eliminated the oil cooler for a few years that lead to higher than acceptable oil temperature 'peaks' in various engine spots, and the oil cooked. After the class action, all new Toyotas required that 5000 mile interval for many years until they started using 0w20 synthetic. They also downgraded the interval for their older vehicles to 5000 miles since 7500 miles was a failure. I've had the 2.2 in Camry's, MR2, and Celica. Great engine for those with a brain. Tolerable MPG but a little weak... just fine for commuting. Funny that another automaker with 7500 mile conventional oil change intervals with their theta-ii's have similar sludge production too. Nobody learns and history repeats itself, always.

Your 3k interval with conventional is very smart and safe, as long as you keep the sump full. Check often and top off(another good application for the SAE40).

I don't waste oil. When I find or given old oil, I just spike the sump 1 quart at a time to utilize the oil. This is why I mentioned 25:75 or 50:50 blend. It'll just take more time to use up your stash. This engine family isn't going to care at all concerning API and has been around for 33+ years, as long as the interval is
The engine also has room for oversized filters, which become artificial 'sumps too', besides having extra media to catch all the crud that it produces. So, optional filters, like the PH3614 or PH3600 can be used, and I recommend oversized whenever possible, especially since this engine is crud producer. Those filters can be xrefenced to whatever brand you use. Since some of the filters produced a startup rattle on my 5sfe's, I would definitely want one with a silicone ADBV, to rule out cheaper or pathetic entry level filters.

If manual transmission, get some good 75w90 GL4 from Amsoil/Redline/MPT/Ford in that transmission.
If automatic, Mobil1/Amsoil/Redline/Pennzoil/Valvoline have excellent synthetic full visc dex/merc-equivlant ATFs, which can also be used for the separate differential sump and PSF reservoir. Don't drive indefinitely on ancient ATF and PSF or differential fluid. If fancy brands are too expensive for the budget, minimally use any Mercon-V in the ATF/PSF and use ATF+4 for the differential. The ATF sumps on the 2.2's 4speed auto are NOT shared. Don't forget that red coolant needs change outs every 2 years.

I vaguely remember the 2.2 original calling for 10w40 which disappeared after a few years for the 5w30/10w30 choices. In foreign markets, the engine also took 15w40 and 20w50 since they don't have CAFE MPG cracking a whip. Its just another immune to thick viscosity oil, weather permitting.

 

[Kennedy01]

If you end up not wanting it hit me up in a pm. Might try to buy it off you if the price is right.

 

[addyguy]

I’d use it as a supplement to regular 5W-30/10W-30 that you would normally use. Cool find; keep 1-2 of the bottles maybe as collector items…

 

[Escape08]

2 cases of old SAE 40, eh? I googled it takes 5 quarts 5W-30 for an oil change. If it was me, I'll use it 2 for each oil change and the remaining 3 qts of current 0W-20 SYNTHETIC

 

[Mizter Pink]

Greasymechtech:​

Thank u 4 the detailed reply. I appreciate every bit of the info. Very useful. I bought the car off of my neighbor who is an airplane mechanic and he religiously maintained it (He actually has a full on airplane in his front yard on his 14 acre property but i'll save that story for another time). I would always joke with him "Hey man, if u EVER decide to sell that Camry lmk." He sold the car to me for $1500 with an accordian folder 3 inches thick of maintenance records. Not sure if that's good or bad lol 3" is a LOT of records! I had no idea about the sludge problem. I did a bunch of research too, I have no idea how I missed something as bad as that.

I am a big fan of using oversized filters in my vehicles. This started back in 2003 when I bought a new Nissan 350Z. The 1st time I changed the oil I nearly died, seriously. The size of the oil filter on this car is a joke. Smallest filter i've ever seen and this is on Nissan's FLAGSHIP TRACK MODEL 350Z! Anyway I use a WIX 51515 filter now with a whopping 349 Sq. In. of media on that filter AND 3X the size of the oem one and works great.. It's a dedicated track car. Sorry i'm getting off topic.

It'a an automatic. I am a big fan of REDLINE fluids. I will swap out the trans / p/s fluid pronto even though the airplane mech just did it. He used the OEM fluid.

Seriously, thanks 4 all the tips. As a track junky (laguna seca, infineon, buttonwillow, the list goes on) yes, i am fanatical about changing all the fluids and keeping my cars up.

Escape08:​

I actually have 3 cases. I made a typo at the top of my original post but don't know how to edit my post here.

My car takes 3.8 qts. of oil per page 252 of the owners manual. I have the 5s-FE engine.​

All: I think I will mix 2 qts of the Kenbdall with 2 qts of my regular oil and call it good. Will stick to my 3k oil changes and top off with the Kendall between oil changes. Thanks 2 everyone for all the help on this.

 

[KICK]

when a vehicle hits the 23 year old mark, the real question is does it matter?

 

[Greasymechtech]

For some people, everything matters. Why would it matter to you? low poster but member since april fools 2005 bumping thread for comment that doesn't help the thread starter at all. Maybe you should get a life Kick.

 

[userfriendly]

I found that switching late in the game from 5w30 to SAE 40 caused engines to run and smell hot for a few hundred miles.
In that time, the oil turned dark and it used about 1/2 a litre. On the second change, the oil stayed clean and oil consumption was zero.
IMO, if your ambient is above 5C or 40F, you're good to go.

As a rule of thumb, don't mix PCMOs with HDEOs. When possible only "blend" within the same family from one oil company.

edit. Like other single grade HDEOs, Kendall will be formulated from a group I base oil.