Oiling up the ole chain before major rain

[Rick505]

When you figure out what fancy aerosol chain lube to use, try the Grease Ninja Chain oiler to apply it.

I have no financial interest in the product, but I did buy one many moons ago.

 

[The_Sheriff]

When you figure out what fancy aerosol chain lube to use, try the Grease Ninja Chain oiler to apply it.

I have no financial interest in the product, but I did buy one many moons ago.

.
That’s a cool little device.
.

 

[Bonz]

Makes sense. I'm in my mid 40's and tbh, I never felt the need to have a big, powerful, and/or very fast bike. I've always been pretty pragmatic and figured that these were more trouble than they were worth as far being more dangerous, getting tickets easier, harder to handle and pick up after dropped, low mpg's, etc. That, and I've never made much money and their typically more out of my price range.

With that said, I wouldn't mind a little more power than the X300, only for when I take my spouse with me on rides. Back when we were young and skinny, we used to ride a couple hours down to the beach on just a baby Ninja, and it was just barely doable. But with extra weight with the both of us, etc the X300 isn't ideal, though it is doable (but again, just barely).

What year is your Versys X 300? Depending on the year and mileage of your 300, sell it, use the money and get a larger displacement, older 650 Versys. I don't see the 300 as ideal for you from what you've said over different posts and threads. Going back a few years may be something you'll be thrilled with. I ride a 2001 ZRX1200 (81,000 miles) and it leaves nothing on the table to my riding buddies on FJR's, Concours 14's, et al. Nothing like a roll-on from 55 mph in 3rd gear and leaving them or staying even to the ton.

The benefit of displacement is the right wrist controls it all. Putter around like a moped, or tap into the reserves, you're not thinking how fast can I get to triple digit RPM (or close to it) to keep up with traffic.

In all seriousness, I know it's fun to ride a slow bike fast, but the RPM you said you turned on that thing to keep up with traffic, is insane and by over doubling the displacement with a similar cost later model 650 Versys you would be well served.

For example, A 2014 Versys 650 on FaceBook Marketplace in the front range of Colorado with 20,000 miles goes for $3,500. A 2017 650 with 8,000 miles is asking $5,500. You will always be able to get them for less than advertised. A 2017/2018/2021 Versys X (300) with under 10,000 miles goes for $3,330-$5000. Trade up, you won't be disappointed.

 

[The_Sheriff]

What year is your Versys X 300? Depending on the year and mileage of your 300, sell it, use the money and get a larger displacement, older 650 Versys. I don't see the 300 as ideal for you from what you've said over different posts and threads. Going back a few years may be something you'll be thrilled with. I ride a 2001 ZRX1200 (81,000 miles) and it leaves nothing on the table to my riding buddies on FJR's, Concours 14's, et al. Nothing like a roll-on from 55 mph in 3rd gear and leaving them or staying even to the ton.

The benefit of displacement is the right wrist controls it all. Putter around like a moped, or tap into the reserves, you're not thinking how fast can I get to triple digit RPM (or close to it) to keep up with traffic.

In all seriousness, I know it's fun to ride a slow bike fast, but the RPM you said you turned on that thing to keep up with traffic, is insane and by over doubling the displacement with a similar cost later model 650 Versys you would be well served.

For example, A 2014 Versys 650 on FaceBook Marketplace in the front range of Colorado with 20,000 miles goes for $3,500. A 2017 650 with 8,000 miles is asking $5,500. You will always be able to get them for less than advertised. A 2017/2018/2021 Versys X (300) with under 10,000 miles goes for $3,330-$5000. Trade up, you won't be disappointed.

.
Right. One minor point about the X300 motor. It redlines at 12,000 rpm. 9k is exactly an indicated 75mph when I had mine. That motor is tough as nails and very reliable. It goes back to the mid 80’s when it started out as a 250.

But yes, he could do with more displacement and your recommendation of the Versys 650 is a good one.
.

 

[KrisZ]

Use gear oil and there is no need for brushes. The chain wipes off with a rag, but in reality it doesn’t need cleaning that often anyways. The point of lubing the chain is rust protection, not the actual lubrication.

 

[VersysVsWhat]

Hi Bonz and Sheriff, definitely something to consider. With that said, 98% of the time, I'm more than happy with the X300. My spouse and I rarely ride together. Also, she would like to get a bike herself at some point. (I would like her to get a highway capable scooter at first, because clutches and gears are a completely alien concept to her, and the one time I tried to teach her didn't go so well).

 

[VersysVsWhat]

.
It’s my understanding that kerosene will degrade o-rings.

I realize that this has been addressed previously by other posters, but wanted to mention something related. While kerosene won't degrade the O or X-rings, testing done by FortNine shows that kerosene CAN get past the rings, and thus potentially into the packed grease and dilute/interact with it negatively.

With that said, if you just put some on a rag and use the rag to wipe, it should be a non issue. However, you don't want to drench the chain with it ever, because of the above.

 

[JB250]

.
No muss no fuss no fling. O & X ring safe, I contacted the maker to make sure.

View attachment 283642

View attachment 283643

View attachment 283644

.
No muss no fuss no fling. O & X ring safe, I contacted the maker to make

Hello Sheriff, I have a question for you. What is your chain lube routine in miles? How often do you lube the bikes chain with the Super Slick Slick? By the way I have an interceptor 650 and a Bullet 350. Most fun motorcycles I ever had in 40 years. Jim

 

[02SE]

I realize that this has been addressed previously by other posters, but wanted to mention something related. While kerosene won't degrade the O or X-rings, testing done by FortNine shows that kerosene CAN get past the rings, and thus potentially into the packed grease and dilute/interact with it negatively.

With that said, if you just put some on a rag and use the rag to wipe, it should be a non issue. However, you don't want to drench the chain with it ever, because of the above.

I've taken apart numerous (Maybe 30?) of my old worn-out O/X-ring chains, and never found any evidence of Kerosene getting past the O/X-ring seal to contaminate the grease. I'm referring to high-quality Regina, RK, EK, DID, X-ring chains. Some low-end chains might not be as well constructed.

 

[VersysVsWhat]

I've taken apart numerous (Maybe 30?) of my old worn-out O/X-ring chains, and never found any evidence of Kerosene getting past the O/X-ring seal to contaminate the grease. I'm referring to high-quality Regina, RK, EK, DID, X-ring chains. Some low-end chains might not be as well constructed.

I'm assuming you weren't drenching the chains with the stuff though, correct? Like I said, the solvent to rag method should be fine as long as one isn't going crazy with saturating the rag (till its dripping wet).

It's also hard to say how Fortnine's test rig actually compares to high quality chains like the ones you mentioned. I just figured I should mention it for the "just in case" factor. I have no dog in the fight one way or the other as I plan on using Super Clean degreaser and a low pressure hose.

 

[02SE]

I'm assuming you weren't drenching the chains with the stuff though, correct? Like I said, the solvent to rag method should be fine as long as one isn't going crazy with saturating the rag (till its dripping wet).

It's also hard to say how Fortnine's test rig actually compares to high quality chains like the ones you mentioned. I just figured I should mention it for the "just in case" factor. I have no dog in the fight one way or the other as I plan on using Super Clean degreaser and a low pressure hose.

Yes, I was. I wanted to get any grit out from underneath the roller, and the outside of the bushing. Older service manuals suggested taking the chain off, and letting it soak in a pan.

I recall my CBR1100XX factory Service manual recommended taking off the real wheel, and letting sections of the chain sit and soak in a pan of Kerosene, periodically moving other sections into the pan, until it had been entirely soaked. I never went to that trouble, instead I just brushed it on to the chain with a 1" paint brush. I use plenty of old newspaper underneath to catch and soak up the dirt/kerosene mixture. Then drying the chain with a clean rag and re-lubing. I've been doing that since the early 80's on streetbikes. Since the mid 70's on dirtbikes. I don't do that every day, just when the buildup of lube and dirt becomes excessive. Everyday riding, I give it a quick wipe-down with WD-40 to lightly clean it, and then re-lube, and let the lube dry.

I've tried gear oil, but always found it messy. I've tried automatic-oilers in the past. Finding that happy medium of lubed but not under/ over-lubed, seems to only work if you're riding in the same manner all the time. They do work for some.

 

[VersysVsWhat]

Did you see Fortnine's test? Do you think it doesn't pertain to higher quality chains? I'm honestly asking here, not challenging or trying to prove you wrong.

In the test, Ryan took some O rings and sandwiched a steel alloy plate in between them, tightened down with bolts/ratchet. Then he poured in a little kerosene (and various other cleaners). Quote, "Ultimately, Motul, Kersosene, and Motorex leaked immediately and catastrophically..."

Here is where that particular test starts:


Perhaps this test does not pertain to real world conditions? Perhaps it does? On the off chance that it does, I'll be avoiding kerosene unless I lightly saturate a rag and use the rag.

 

[02SE]

Did you see Fortnine's test? Do you think it doesn't pertain to higher quality chains? I'm honestly asking here, not challenging or trying to prove you wrong.

In the test, Ryan took some O rings and sandwiched a steel alloy plate in between them, tightened down with bolts/ratchet. Then he poured in a little kerosene (and various other cleaners). Quote, "Ultimately, Motul, Kersosene, and Motorex leaked immediately and catastrophically..."

Here is where that particular test starts:


Perhaps this test does not pertain to real world conditions? Perhaps it does? On the off chance that it does, I'll be avoiding kerosene unless I lightly saturate a rag and use the rag.

No, I haven't watched that channel regularly. I watched a video from that channel years ago, and thought his advice on the subject (no I don't recall the particular subject) was specious at best. With the manufacturers of bikes and chains recommending using kerosene for decades, until some of them came out with their own proprietary chain cleaners, and they now of course want you to use their new chain cleaner, I see no reason to consider his opinion.

Because he posts some 'results' which my or may not be applicable to actual O/X-ring chains in use on Youtube, doesn't mean much to me. I have my decades of experience to go by, and as I said the recommendation from bike and chain manufacturers (before some came out with proprietary chain cleaners) to go by.

There's lots of bogus info out there. Plenty of it on Youtube too. There's a guy who uses a one-arm-bandit to 'Test' motor oils and rate them. No one who knows anything about motor oil, actually considers his advice legitimate or worthwhile. He still has lots of deluded followers.

As for what you should do going forward, you are certainly free to do as you wish.

 

[Ranger83]

Been using DuPont Chain Saver for years. Apply it every other tank of gas.

https://www.performancelubricantsusa.com/product-page/dupont-chain-saver

 

[KrisZ]

Did you see Fortnine's test? Do you think it doesn't pertain to higher quality chains? I'm honestly asking here, not challenging or trying to prove you wrong.

In the test, Ryan took some O rings and sandwiched a steel alloy plate in between them, tightened down with bolts/ratchet. Then he poured in a little kerosene (and various other cleaners). Quote, "Ultimately, Motul, Kersosene, and Motorex leaked immediately and catastrophically..."

Here is where that particular test starts:


Perhaps this test does not pertain to real world conditions? Perhaps it does? On the off chance that it does, I'll be avoiding kerosene unless I lightly saturate a rag and use the rag.

That “test” is a joke. The “steel alloy plate” as the video calls it, is nothing but tin sheet metal or aluminum, you can see the waviness and dents in it. No wonder the orings leaked right away.
What’s even more funny is he says right before that they won’t do a “clown test”

A chain has thick and very flat steel link plates and they seal extremely well.

 

[Ranger83]

To continue about chain lube, discovered long ago that more frequent lubrication results in lower chain wear than more-thorough but less-frequent application, regardless of lubricant used.

Most of my street bikes go around 200 miles on a tank, so every other tank works out to every 4-500 miles. That is a lot sooner than most manufacturer recommendations of 500-1,000. My experience with two DL650’s demonstrated lower chain wear with more frequent applications. If I’m on the road sometimes don’t even bother applying it to the inside: just drip it on at the top of the sprocket. Carry a squeeze bottle in a ziplock bag on the bike.

My street bikes all have center stands: for track bike and others use a paddock stand. My first additions to a new bike are usually engine protection bars, center stands, and a louder horn.

 

[The_Sheriff]

Hello Sheriff, I have a question for you. What is your chain lube routine in miles? How often do you lube the bikes chain with the Super Slick Slick? By the way I have an interceptor 650 and a Bullet 350. Most fun motorcycles I ever had in 40 years. Jim

.
I lube with Super Slick Stuff roughly every 500 miles. In between I will sometimes spray a little on a shop towel for a quick wipe down. I have never had chains kept so clean before. It’s a great product.

Yup, my RE Shotgun 650 is the most visceral motorcycling experience I’ve ever had. Like you, over 40 years and alot of bikes. It is truly a great machine.

 

[JB250]

Hey Sheriff, thanks for the reply. I purchased the Super Slick from Ace Hardware yesterday. Looks like I have a new Chain Lube routine. Thanks for the help. Great looking Shotgun!
Respectfully Jim

 

[VersysVsWhat]

That “test” is a joke. The “steel alloy plate” as the video calls it, is nothing but tin sheet metal or aluminum, you can see the waviness and dents in it. No wonder the orings leaked right away.
What’s even more funny is he says right before that they won’t do a “clown test”

A chain has thick and very flat steel link plates and they seal extremely well.

Good point about the metal Kris. With that said, I do find it interesting how some leaked through immediately, some more slowly, and some not at all.

 

[KrisZ]

Good point about the metal Kris. With that said, I do find it interesting how some leaked through immediately, some more slowly, and some not at all.

This was likely due to variance in flatness of all these contraptions they made. The ones that leaked were likely not flat at all and the ones that didn’t leak were likely flat and made a good seal.

It had nothing to do with the cleaner type.