Oil Weight Question

[BusyLittleShop]

Is there a specific clear statement in the OM that says warranty will be denied if any other viscosity is used?

Mercy Zee... I know dealers threaten to deny warranty claims based on oil choice
but I think they know that in a court of law identifying which oil brand was used
would be difficult to prove beyond a reasonable doubt because during oil change
up to 6.8% is left behind to contaminate the new oil... the more oil changes the
more that mixes...

 

[ZeeOSix]

Mercy Zee... I know dealers threaten to deny warranty claims based on oil choice
but I think they know that in a court of law identifying which oil brand was used
would be difficult to prove beyond a reasonable doubt because during oil change
up to 6.8% is left behind to contaminate the new oil... the more oil changes the
more that mixes...

I was asking about a statement in the OM that says if the recommended viscosity isn't used it will void the warranty ... not if they could prove a non-recommended oil viscosity was used or not. Actually, a UOA will tell you what viscosity grade the oil is. It would have to be sheared down pretty good to drop a whole KV100 grade. And having up to 6.8% of a different viscosity from the previous oil change isn't enough to change the current oil a whole KV100 grade.

 

[car54]

I’ve run 10W-60 full synthetic in my CRF250L without any issues.


Right now I’m running Motul 300V 10W-40, and I’ve been very happy with it. That said, I’ve switched all of my bikes over to Maxima motorcycle oils and the 250L will get Extra 10w-40 at its next change.


Motul 300V is over $140 for a 4-liter jug now. Maxima Extra is around $64, and ProPlus (one step below Extra, but still full synthetic) is about $43. Those are ChapMoto.com prices with free shipping over $49. It’s become my go-to place for oil.


I’ve always liked Maxima, but when 300V was around $65 a jug, I went Motul. At more than double that price? No way. I stocked up on Maxima before they possibly jack up prices like everyone else has.


Honestly, I can’t tell any difference in performance.


I run Maxima ProPlus in my cruisers (Vulcan 900 and SCR950) and Maxima Extra in my CRF250L, DR200SE, and air-cooled Vino 125 scooter. My thinking is that the higher-performance bikes deserve the small extra cost for Extra, while the low-stressed cruisers do just fine on ProPlus.


Everything gets synthetic because, why not? It helps minimize sludge and deposits while providing a little extra protection. Maxima ProPlus full synthetic is also priced almost the same as Honda GN4 conventional, so it’s an easy decision.


I’ve been riding for 40 years and have never had a lubrication-related failure. I started out running Mobil 1 15W-50, and that was excellent oil too.


I wouldn’t hesitate to run the 10W-50. Just switch back to 10W-40 or 30 at your next oil change if that’s your preferred viscosity. I’ve never experienced a failure or any negative effects from going up in viscosity.

 

[02SE]

Right now I’m running Motul 300V 10W-40, and I’ve been very happy with it. That said, I’ve switched all of my bikes over to Maxima motorcycle oils and the 250L will get Extra 10w-40 at its next change.


Motul 300V is over $140 for a 4-liter jug now. Maxima Extra is around $64, and ProPlus (one step below Extra, but still full synthetic) is about $43. Those are ChapMoto.com prices with free shipping over $49. It’s become my go-to place for oil.

It can be bought for less: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/motul-300v-4t-factory-line-full-synthetic-motor-oil-p