oil top-up question

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hey guys,

i've got a 96' BMW 318. the engine (M44) specs a 40-weight oil, but i have been running 10W-30 for a while. reason being, i didn't know any better until recently. so i have a jug of Liqui-Moly 5W-40 ready for my next oil change, but i'm only at about 3000 KM's on the current Mobil1 10W-30 that is in there.

so, it just consumed some oil for the first time, and i need to add some.

my question is:

should i add what's already in there, which is Mobil1 10W-30, or, should i add the Liqui-Moly 5W-40?

i thought maybe i should start adding the oil that it requires, especially because i suspect it is consuming the current oil because it is too thin.

or is it better to stick to what's already in there until the next oil change?

or does it not really matter which one i add?

advise me, oh oil kings. advise me.

(ps - is it likely that the consumption, as i suspect, is due to the use of 30-weight oil, where a 10-weight is specified?)

thanks!
 
Use what you have on hand hand for topup oil, as it really makes no difference. I would also question the need for a 40 wt. oil in Toronto. Overall, you likely better off with a 5w30 M1 unless you keep it in a heated garage. I would save the 5w40 for next spring.
 
thanks for the suggestions, guys.

i'd like to know what other ppl think too.

ron: my engine was designed for 5W-40. i'm gonna use it. especially because toronto winters have been mild recently, anyways.

another question: i was thinking of doing a UOA for my first time on this next oil change. so how does it work, if im adding clean top-up oil half way through?
 
IMO unless you're a full quart low and plan on going another 2000-3000 more miles on the OCI, just leave it be. If it's a teeny bit low on the dipstick leave it alone until its time for a change.

FWIW I always measure my input to output when I change my oil. I end up pouring in 5qts, and getting 4.5 out each change, and my dipstick is always on the full mark so I consider it 0% oil consumption with 1/2qt somewhere left in the motor.
 
or if you had some 20W50 dino oil handy I'd use that. SAE60?
don't bother adding unless you're below the minimum mark.

A BMW engine (especially a older one) is going to like a 40wt better. but M1 5W30 would be better than 10W30.
0W40 or 5W40 will work just as well in cold weather (cold starts).
 
ok, i'm going to try to hold off from topping-up. but why? what is the reason for not keeping it close to the full mark?

i think i will do a short OCI for this current oil. i'm at 3,500 KM's with it now. probably gonna dump it out at 4000 KM's (2500 miles).

so how does the UOA work? i need a kit before i drain my oil, right?
 
I think the main reason for not topping up, is it is just not worth the bother. Can't see it hurting much. When I had a 92 Grand Am that I had to add oil to, I always topped it up whenever I remembered to check the oil.

The one truck I used to drive a work, I sometimes would check it after adding a quart to see if it was enough.

Since my 02 Cavalier and old truck seldom need any oil, I don't do as good of a job remembering to check them as I should.

Topping up the brake MC is a mistake. It tends to introduce moisture into the system, and leaves the reservoir over full when you replace the pads. If the fluid drops other than as the pads wear, you need to fix the leak.
 
thanks AndyH. i filled out that form, and shall now wait. how long does it usually take? and does anyone know if Canadian BITOG members have used Blackstone before?

turn of events: i checked my dip stick again today, and its showing almost full now. back to where it always was. this is odd. is it possible i was getting an incorrect reading yesterday?
 
I get such readings too some engines are very sensitive to level/grade changes. Even on seemingly level surfaces I get slightly different readings innmy Acura 3.2 and my mom's Altima is even worse it will show 0.25 L low in one spot and full in other, Accords on the other hand don't seem to do that and give you more or less consistent readings.
 
Oil temp can effect reading, try to check consistantly when oil is near same temp, oil expands hot, contracts cold in extreme temp changes. My dipstick oil level can show 1/4 inch drop in extreme cold (-45CorF) and overfill 3/16" when oil is extremely hot in my Nissan, once the oil cools it goes down nicely to full mark.

Consistancy in drain time to sump on oil level checks, position of car in same level place consistantly on each check. Without opening can of worms on "HOT" or "COLD" oil level checks, try to implement consistancy in your choice of method on oil checks. I prefer the cold method, I personally find it most consistant/accurate unless extreme cold temp comes into play and I wont top up for that.

If I travel extensive long distances, I do the consistant oil check before leaving and top up before leaving (if needed), I will check my oil for caution sake at gas stations/unfamiliar spots etc but unless something is extreme in oil level check (red flag) I wont top up until I am on a consistant format again at home/ family/ friends etc. where I am confident in the condition due to past reference.

I learned the hard way in experience in overfilling and doing more damage fussing with oil levels on inconsistant oil level, time duration draining, hot/cold checks, etc. 99.999% of time I come home, do my consistant oil level check and I find my oil level right, I learned to leave a sleeping dog sleep unless a red flag shows on an inconsistant oil level reading. If that "red flag" happened far away from home on reading I would go look for best spot to park to equal my home level position and then wait the appropriate consistant time/circumstances above to equal my home check with the best possible conditions.

This system applies to my vehicles that dont consume or consumes very small amounts of oil as it sounds your car normally might BennyL, know your engine. I dont treat an engine like this which consistantly uses oil.

I believe am saving engine damage in overfilling and personal stress with this method. I now prefer a slight drop below full mark/considerable distance above add mark rather than the risk of overfill, overfilled foaming oil will keep you awake at night if yu find extreme foamed oil on a dip stick, not much lubricating in oil that is air entrained oil, best to leave air entrainment for concrete. IMO overfill will do more damage, and had you topped up other day with a lot of oil
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yu may be upset today overfilled.

Inconsistant conditions on oil level check is all I can figure on your different readings.

Works for me and for all it is worth to you BennyL.

Cyprs
 
I get such readings too some engines are very sensitive to level/grade changes. Even on seemingly level surfaces I get slightly different readings innmy Acura 3.2 and my mom's Altima is even worse it will show 0.25 L low in one spot and full in other, Accords on the other hand don't seem to do that and give you more or less consistent readings.
 
BennyL: I filled out that form once and waited and waited... I never received anything.

Here's my "local" findings i.e. in Ontario, Canada... I went ahead and searched out some Canadian labs.

There's WearCheck in Mississauga, ON, and Toromont-CAT in Concord, ON.

Toromont-CAT
WearCheck Canada


Here's my experiences with them:
Both have websites to view the UOA, but WearCheck is almost "real-time" and you can view the results usually within 1-2 days of their receiving the sample; this feature is "fun" and addictive. Toromont-CAT takes much longer to process the UOA, 3-4 weeks.

If you can find a Petro-Canada distributor near you, you can buy the WearCheck kits much cheaper (about 50% less) there than if you were to buy them directly from WearCheck.

The WearCheck kits range from about $13-$40 CAD, usually with return shipping in groups of 4 (kind of an inconvenience). The Toromont-CAT kits are $17 CAD, including return shipping on the individual samples. All pricing before tax.
 
ok, thanks craigq! where in toronto are you located? is there a petro-can dealer somewhere in concord? thats where i am.

is wearcheck as good as blackstone? do they do all the same tests?

if yes, then i'll swing by a petro-can dealer and grab a kit tomorrow!

Cyprs: i think you hit the nail on the head. the reading i got when it showed low was at a different spot from my usual, and im not sure if it was level there. i normally check my oil in the morning, after it hasn't driven for numerous hours. i live in a condo, and park in an underground garage, which is pretty much perfectly level, so that is my preferred time/place to check oil. after going back and checking it the usual way, it seems my oil is EXACTLY where it always is, and she's still not consuming oil yet (yay!).
 
Glad to hear it not consuming BennyL, glad you didn't "top up too", You lucky to have underground parking, this will help the climate factor on oil level checks too.

Dominik did "hit nail on head" too with similar response concerning level ground (credit due there too), my post/response took a while, I didn't see Dominik's post until I hit "add reply" but we were both on similar path I think, cant help feeling bit guilty taking all credit.
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Dominik, the Altima you speak of, is that the 02 Altima that came up in past in bitog discussions? How is that QR25DE doing? Those QR25DE are a pain on oil level checks
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, I have a QR25DE (made in Japan) now in a 05 X-trail, great engine but consistancy on oil level checks on every condition sure apply or they'll drive one beserk.
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I cant remember my 03 Altima pan, but this X-trail has a large shallow sloped pan, that might be reason for tricky oil level checks on these QR25DEs?
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.

Cyprs
 
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