Oil Suggestion for 2003 SVT Cobra
- Thread starter Bundy78
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Theres a reason ford calls for a 5w50 in the performance cars of late (GT500s, Boss 302's etc) Stay away from that 20w [censored] in your terminator! You're not worried about that .0005% extra mpg so why risk it?
I know a majority of the guys on here are thin oil praisers but lets face it, this ain't a Corolla and the goal isn't 35mpgs.
I just sold my beloved all black 03 Cobra about 2 years ago... bought a farm and had two kids so it was just very impractical for me. To stay on topic I ran 5w30 synthetics in it all the time with no issues. I had a 2.76 pulley on it with a programmer and full exhaust. When I was going to track it, I filled with either the Motorcraft 5w50 or Mobil 1 0w40.
I know a majority of the guys on here are thin oil praisers but lets face it, this ain't a Corolla and the goal isn't 35mpgs.
I just sold my beloved all black 03 Cobra about 2 years ago... bought a farm and had two kids so it was just very impractical for me. To stay on topic I ran 5w30 synthetics in it all the time with no issues. I had a 2.76 pulley on it with a programmer and full exhaust. When I was going to track it, I filled with either the Motorcraft 5w50 or Mobil 1 0w40.
While I agree with the notion of getting the air/fuel ratio correct, I believe that oil choice is just as important.
With that amount of boost, cylinder pressures will increase and put additional stress on the rod bearings. This calls for an increase in HT/HS protection over what a 5W-20 offers. I'm running 16-17 psi through my turbos, and I see it as why risk the damage to eeek out another .25 mpg by using a resource conserving 5w30?
For an all year oil that can go two years and 5k miles between changes, I'd say Mobil 1 0W-40 would be your best and most cost effective choice. You can rest assured then when you stick your right foot into it that you'll have no problems.
With that amount of boost, cylinder pressures will increase and put additional stress on the rod bearings. This calls for an increase in HT/HS protection over what a 5W-20 offers. I'm running 16-17 psi through my turbos, and I see it as why risk the damage to eeek out another .25 mpg by using a resource conserving 5w30?
For an all year oil that can go two years and 5k miles between changes, I'd say Mobil 1 0W-40 would be your best and most cost effective choice. You can rest assured then when you stick your right foot into it that you'll have no problems.
Thanks again for all of the information. From what I gather, it sounds like Mobil 1 is fine. I was considering changing to Red Line or Royal Purple, but I may stick with Mobil 1 and think about changing weight.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
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There's also Castrol Edge 5W50 which is much cheaper (when it's on sale) than MC 5W50.
NICE ride!
LOVE that color on those cars, and those were some of the BEST looking factory wheels ever put on ANY car (in my opinion anyway).
LOVE that color on those cars, and those were some of the BEST looking factory wheels ever put on ANY car (in my opinion anyway).
Originally Posted By: Bundy78
Thanks again for all of the information. From what I gather, it sounds like Mobil 1 is fine. I was considering changing to Red Line or Royal Purple, but I may stick with Mobil 1 and think about changing weight.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
Thanks again for all of the information. From what I gather, it sounds like Mobil 1 is fine. I was considering changing to Red Line or Royal Purple, but I may stick with Mobil 1 and think about changing weight.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
Whaaaat?
Oh, and mind I ask, were they using the non-API certified RP, or was it in fact the API certified RP?
Reason I ask is because my mother's 05 Lincoln Aviator has the 4v 4.6L v8 and I was thinking about using some of RP's API certified 0w-20 in it... Could you elaborate please?
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
Whaaaat?
Oh, and mind I ask, were they using the non-API certified RP, or was it in fact the API certified RP?
Reason I ask is because my mother's 05 Lincoln Aviator has the 4v 4.6L v8 and I was thinking about using some of RP's API certified 0w-20 in it... Could you elaborate please?
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
Originally Posted By: Bundy78
Thanks again for all of the information. From what I gather, it sounds like Mobil 1 is fine. I was considering changing to Red Line or Royal Purple, but I may stick with Mobil 1 and think about changing weight.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
I've heard alot of misinformation on these forums,but this is tops right here! Oil pump failure because of using royal purple oil? Really and you believed it? Seriously,I know at least three people who use royal purple in their mod motors with no issues.I want some more information on this because,I've built motors myself and quite frankly do not believe any of this.
Originally Posted By: Bundy78
Thanks again for all of the information. From what I gather, it sounds like Mobil 1 is fine. I was considering changing to Red Line or Royal Purple, but I may stick with Mobil 1 and think about changing weight.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
I've heard alot of misinformation on these forums,but this is tops right here! Oil pump failure because of using royal purple oil? Really and you believed it? Seriously,I know at least three people who use royal purple in their mod motors with no issues.I want some more information on this because,I've built motors myself and quite frankly do not believe any of this.
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple.
These engine builders are incapable of finishing an engine so it can run on an API approved oil?
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple.
These engine builders are incapable of finishing an engine so it can run on an API approved oil?
Every 6 months at 1000 miles don't bother me at all.
That engine is gonna live a nice clean varnish-free life.
That engine is gonna live a nice clean varnish-free life.
The 99-04 4.6 32v is known for having a weak oil pump and having had quite a few failures. Even bone stock with no modifications. These are not motors that were built by engine builders that failed, they were engines built by Ford factories that failed.
One of the quotes was:
"I have torn apart over a dozen mod motors with top end issues from running royal purple. Most had destroyed cam towers. RP is just too thin. My own personal experience, my own opinion." I assume they are referring to w20 as there was no weight specified.
My own Mach1 ran much smoother and quieter with German Castrol and Motorcraft than it did with RP of the same weight.
Like I said I don't know how true it is, but have heard a few people over the years saying RP is not good for Mod motors. I have heard the same thing about LS1's also, only that had something to do with Cam wear if I remember.
Is it possible the people that use RP are also more likely to want to over rev or something because "race oil"? Sure. I can just state what I have repeatedly seen people say. I have seen it said enough that I just don't feel safe running RP in any 4.6.
Either way the point seems to be that you DONT want thin oil in a performance engine.
One of the quotes was:
"I have torn apart over a dozen mod motors with top end issues from running royal purple. Most had destroyed cam towers. RP is just too thin. My own personal experience, my own opinion." I assume they are referring to w20 as there was no weight specified.
My own Mach1 ran much smoother and quieter with German Castrol and Motorcraft than it did with RP of the same weight.
Like I said I don't know how true it is, but have heard a few people over the years saying RP is not good for Mod motors. I have heard the same thing about LS1's also, only that had something to do with Cam wear if I remember.
Is it possible the people that use RP are also more likely to want to over rev or something because "race oil"? Sure. I can just state what I have repeatedly seen people say. I have seen it said enough that I just don't feel safe running RP in any 4.6.
Either way the point seems to be that you DONT want thin oil in a performance engine.
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RP = overpriced boutique junk. Just because its pretty purple doesn't make it anything extraordinary.
I'd stick with a mass produced quality synthetic oil for your baby.
I'd stick with a mass produced quality synthetic oil for your baby.
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
The 99-04 4.6 32v is known for having a weak oil pump and having had quite a few failures.
When they say "weak oil pump", what do they mean? Broken pump drive shaft, or worn gears, or stuck regulator valve, or what?
The 99-04 4.6 32v is known for having a weak oil pump and having had quite a few failures.
When they say "weak oil pump", what do they mean? Broken pump drive shaft, or worn gears, or stuck regulator valve, or what?
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
One of the quotes was:
"I have torn apart over a dozen mod motors with top end issues from running royal purple. Most had destroyed cam towers. RP is just too thin. My own personal experience, my own opinion." I assume they are referring to w20 as there was no weight specified.
The only time I've seen destroyed cam journals is when the oil pump gears have shattered.
Like here:
Which was caused by this:
This engine was running Amsoil AZO 0W-30, of course it was going almost 200 mph with a Vortech Si-trim making 600 rwhp with an overtaxed Vortech Aftercooler (that was likely allowing ~250 degree IATs at this point) when the oil pump gears gave up the ghost. Loss of oil pressure kills cam journals and harmonics kill factory powdered oil pump gears, not your oil of choice.
Billet oil pumps gears (Melling, Triangle Speed Shop) don't shatter.
To the OP, I'd recommend a 5w30 synthetic from your favorite blender.
One of the quotes was:
"I have torn apart over a dozen mod motors with top end issues from running royal purple. Most had destroyed cam towers. RP is just too thin. My own personal experience, my own opinion." I assume they are referring to w20 as there was no weight specified.
The only time I've seen destroyed cam journals is when the oil pump gears have shattered.
Like here:
Which was caused by this:
This engine was running Amsoil AZO 0W-30, of course it was going almost 200 mph with a Vortech Si-trim making 600 rwhp with an overtaxed Vortech Aftercooler (that was likely allowing ~250 degree IATs at this point) when the oil pump gears gave up the ghost. Loss of oil pressure kills cam journals and harmonics kill factory powdered oil pump gears, not your oil of choice.
Billet oil pumps gears (Melling, Triangle Speed Shop) don't shatter.
To the OP, I'd recommend a 5w30 synthetic from your favorite blender.
Originally Posted By: Ben99GT
The only time I've seen destroyed cam journals is when the oil pump gears have shattered.
Like here:
Which was caused by this:
This engine was running Amsoil AZO 0W-30, of course it was going almost 200 mph with a Vortech Si-trim making 600 rwhp with an overtaxed Vortech Aftercooler (that was likely allowing ~250 degree IATs at this point) when the oil pump gears gave up the ghost. Loss of oil pressure kills cam journals and harmonics kill factory powdered oil pump gears, not your oil of choice.
Billet oil pumps gears (Melling, Triangle Speed Shop) don't shatter.
Now that's a sexy failure: driving gear in the oil pump broken into 8 pieces. My experience with that kind of thing is that an engine running at max power output has about 3 seconds to live when the oil pump stops turning. It's also kind of a real-world object lesson on the importance of controlling crankshaft torsional harmonics.
The only time I've seen destroyed cam journals is when the oil pump gears have shattered.
Like here:
Which was caused by this:
This engine was running Amsoil AZO 0W-30, of course it was going almost 200 mph with a Vortech Si-trim making 600 rwhp with an overtaxed Vortech Aftercooler (that was likely allowing ~250 degree IATs at this point) when the oil pump gears gave up the ghost. Loss of oil pressure kills cam journals and harmonics kill factory powdered oil pump gears, not your oil of choice.
Billet oil pumps gears (Melling, Triangle Speed Shop) don't shatter.
Now that's a sexy failure: driving gear in the oil pump broken into 8 pieces. My experience with that kind of thing is that an engine running at max power output has about 3 seconds to live when the oil pump stops turning. It's also kind of a real-world object lesson on the importance of controlling crankshaft torsional harmonics.
Originally Posted By: DragRace
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
Originally Posted By: Bundy78
Thanks again for all of the information. From what I gather, it sounds like Mobil 1 is fine. I was considering changing to Red Line or Royal Purple, but I may stick with Mobil 1 and think about changing weight.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
I've heard alot of misinformation on these forums,but this is tops right here! Oil pump failure because of using royal purple oil? Really and you believed it? Seriously,I know at least three people who use royal purple in their mod motors with no issues.I want some more information on this because,I've built motors myself and quite frankly do not believe any of this.
Me neither.
In fact the forum has pics of cams from a mod motor where the owner used RP and the cams look brand new at the high mile removal time.
I've got 2v engines,4v engines,nitrous fed and my current 4v is going to get the ported m112 I've got sitting in my garage at some point and I've run various oils in various grades.
In fact it's my old 2v that brought me to this forum.
Royal purple is a great oil I'm just not prepared to pay that kind of money for it. The stuff with synerlec is a cut above most oils on the market and I truly believe that stuff makes it one of the best available on the market.
So the tripe mr Mach 1 up there is saying is truly laughable.
Oh. And I've never had an oil pump problem,ever. Nor have I ever seen one.
I'm a part a 2 local mustang clubs and likely 15 forums,and I can truly say I've never,ever read or seen any oil pump issues either.
I've been collecting,driving,and blowing up mustangs for years and not a single one blew due to an oil pump or oil issue.
Nitrous however I've blown intakes,and hoods right off before,but that's another story
Originally Posted By: Mach1Owner
Originally Posted By: Bundy78
Thanks again for all of the information. From what I gather, it sounds like Mobil 1 is fine. I was considering changing to Red Line or Royal Purple, but I may stick with Mobil 1 and think about changing weight.
I did have the car tuned by a very reputable tuner, so I'm positive that air/fuel ratio is in good shape.
Don't bother with RP on a 4v mod motor. I have seen some engine builders say that out of the ones that have had the oil pump fail, most were using Royal Purple. If Mobil 1 is working just fine, why risk it even if its not true?
I've heard alot of misinformation on these forums,but this is tops right here! Oil pump failure because of using royal purple oil? Really and you believed it? Seriously,I know at least three people who use royal purple in their mod motors with no issues.I want some more information on this because,I've built motors myself and quite frankly do not believe any of this.
Me neither.
In fact the forum has pics of cams from a mod motor where the owner used RP and the cams look brand new at the high mile removal time.
I've got 2v engines,4v engines,nitrous fed and my current 4v is going to get the ported m112 I've got sitting in my garage at some point and I've run various oils in various grades.
In fact it's my old 2v that brought me to this forum.
Royal purple is a great oil I'm just not prepared to pay that kind of money for it. The stuff with synerlec is a cut above most oils on the market and I truly believe that stuff makes it one of the best available on the market.
So the tripe mr Mach 1 up there is saying is truly laughable.
Oh. And I've never had an oil pump problem,ever. Nor have I ever seen one.
I'm a part a 2 local mustang clubs and likely 15 forums,and I can truly say I've never,ever read or seen any oil pump issues either.
I've been collecting,driving,and blowing up mustangs for years and not a single one blew due to an oil pump or oil issue.
Nitrous however I've blown intakes,and hoods right off before,but that's another story
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