Oil seepage question -2013 Ford 3.7 v6

[CF7]

Hi guys. I was wondering if anyone could answer this. Im far from a mechanic. My limit is pretty much oil changes at this point.
I was just putting my battery in, and changing my oil for spring on my 2013 mustang 3.7 six.
If i look directly at the engine from the front, I noticed 10mm bolts along side my left are showing oil seepage.
The ones toward the top aren't as bad as the ones below. Im not sure if that's because the oil would obviously gravitate downward or if the lower ones are worse.
The first photo shows the front of the engine and I flashed my light in the upper area.
The last photo is a view laying under the vehicle looking upward in the same area.
Should I re-torque these bolts, and if so to what?
Does anyone have any ideas as to what this issue could be?
Thanks again, and I know diagnostics is very difficult from just photos.

 

[hemitom]

I would clean it all up first and try and identify the point of the leak.
then if needed start with torquing of the bolts .

 

[CF7]

I would clean it all up first and try and identify the point of the leak.
then if needed start with torquing of the bolts .

Thanks. I'll give that a shot

 

[B1974]

I wouldn't try and retorque the bolts as that would probably make the leak worse. How much oil are you losing between oil changes?

Looks like a timing cover leak. I'd clean the area up and keep an eye on it and the oil level to see how much is getting lost. But in my opinion this is about what you would find on most over 10 year old vehicles. I'd just keep an eye on it for now.

 

[JTK]

Looks like timing cover seepage. Is it bad enough to drip to the ground? You could try cleaning the areas with brake clean, etc to get a better feel for the exact areas.

 

[CF7]

I wouldn't try and retorque the bolts as that would probably make the leak worse. How much oil are you losing between oil changes?

Looks like a timing cover leak. I'd clean the area up and keep an eye on it and the oil level to see how much is getting lost. But in my opinion this is about what you would find on most over 10 year old vehicles. I'd just keep an eye on it for now.

Ok. I dont drive it very much. It has 44k on it now.
Looks like 5.25 quarts came out, plus whatever was left in the filter, and a couple of spilled spots. It takes 6 so it doesn't seem to have lost much.
Thanks for the info regarding Timing Cover. I had no idea what it could be.

 

[CF7]

Looks like timing cover seepage. Is it bad enough to drip to the ground? You could try cleaning the areas with brake clean, etc to get a better feel for the exact areas.

Nothing on the ground yet. I also checked the plastic panel under the car and that was dry.
The oil isn't completely black and dry on the block, its kind of wet, fresh, and becoming black at the same time.
Thanks though

 

[JTK]

Nothing on the ground yet. I also checked the plastic panel under the car and that was dry.
The oil isn't completely black and dry on the block, its kind of wet, fresh, and becoming black at the same time.
Thanks though

That engine looks immaculate from the top. Like you asked earlier, you could put a socket on those bolts just to gently check if they're loose, but it is an RTV seal and it's super unlikely the bolts are loose. The RTV has just degraded with age, or was a tad bit poorly done from the get go. I'd imagine a timing cover re-seal would be a bit pricey. If I had to go that far, I'd consider other PM work in the process.

 

[D60]

Re-sealing that will suck and you might as well do water pump and timing set at that point. So yeah, I'd just monitor it. The cover is just silicone/RTV/FIPG so anything meant to "condition" gaskets likely won't help -- if you believe in that sort of thing. You could still go a bit heavier on oil and see if it slows.

If you're really industrious, clean it up well, dump in some UV dye intended for oil and keep checking with a light and glasses (inexpensive). I don't think it's gonna prove much beyond what we already know, but it might be fun for you

 

[CF7]

That engine looks immaculate from the top. Like you asked earlier, you could put a socket on those bolts just to gently check if they're loose, but it is an RTV seal and it's super unlikely the bolts are loose. The RTV has just degraded with age, or was a tad bit poorly done from the get go. I'd imagine a timing cover re-seal would be a bit pricey. If I had to go that far, I'd consider other PM work in the process.

Interesting. Thanks again for the information. Will do

 

[CF7]

Re-sealing that will suck and you might as well do water pump and timing set at that point. So yeah, I'd just monitor it. The cover is just silicone/RTV/FIPG so anything meant to "condition" gaskets likely won't help -- if you believe in that sort of thing. You could still go a bit heavier on oil and see if it slows.

If you're really industrious, clean it up well, dump in some UV dye intended for oil and keep checking with a light and glasses (inexpensive). I don't think it's gonna prove much beyond what we already know, but it might be fun for you

I appreciate the help. Unfortunately I just changed the oil with 5-w20, but going a tad thicker may have been smart.
Ill look into the dye and glasses. That may be an experience.
Thanks again

 

[fisher83]

If it's just seepage that's not dripping on the ground I would leave it be.

 

[CF7]

Re-sealing that will suck and you might as well do water pump and timing set at that point. So yeah, I'd just monitor it. The cover is just silicone/RTV/FIPG so anything meant to "condition" gaskets likely won't help -- if you believe in that sort of thing. You could still go a bit heavier on oil and see if it slows.

If you're really industrious, clean it up well, dump in some UV dye intended for oil and keep checking with a light and glasses (inexpensive). I don't think it's gonna prove much beyond what we already know, but it might be fun for you

This area is kind of wet too. I noticed while cleaning it up.
For a mint car that was bone dry everywhere last year, this is strange to me.

 

[D60]

Paging @mattd

He does three of these timing jobs before breakfast. Then he takes chain guides and nails and mixes them with whiskey for breakfast. Then he rebuilds a couple engines in the afternoon

 

[CF7]

Paging @mattd

He does three of these timing jobs before breakfast. Then he takes chain guides and nails and mixes them with whiskey for breakfast. Then he rebuilds a couple engines in the afternoon

At some point, perhaps you could introduce me to this individual. Lol

 

[Andyd95]

Timing cover is seeping. At some point you are gonna have to do chains, just wait until then.

 

[CF7]

Timing cover is seeping. At some point you are gonna have to do chains, just wait until then.

Thanks. I just wonder how long it can go just slowly seeping.
Is there a way to guesstimate how long it will take to really leak?
Im assuming it depends on many factors.
Thanks

 

[D60]

Thanks. I just wonder how long it can go just slowly seeping.
Is there a way to guesstimate how long it will take to really leak?
Im assuming it depends on many factors.
Thanks

I would say it's impossible to know but I wouldn't lose much sleep over it. I'd guess you've got a couple years. Would be nice to get closer to 100k where it makes more sense to do the water pump and timing set as PM

 

[clinebarger]

Timing cover reseal on a RWD Cyclone isn't really that bad & the water pump is external.

These are pretty low wearing far as timing components are concerned....I've done quite a few Ecoboost timing jobs, But they're DI.

 

[mattd]

That spot is a very common leak point. The surface area of the silicone sealing surface is smallest there. The torque should be 22 lb +45 degrees on the smaller bolts.

I have found the motorcraft metal surface prep wipes make a big a big difference in adhesion to the aluminum when doing this job and seals better than not using them.

I would not be terribly concerned about an external water pump timing set. Unless you hear noise or have issues or insane hours on the car id leave it alone. The application I service are as bad as it gets. The timing chain tensioners are usually way out indicating chain wear and/or worn guides, and you have an occasional phaser issue but not nearly as common as the ecoboost or later generation ecoboost phasers.