Oil recommendations for new 460/7.5L Ford

[Pablo]

like what?

Amsoil HM
Amsoil SS ATM
Amsoil Z Rod or Racing

https://www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=515729

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Your use case seems to be pretty low in demands on that engine. Why not explain that to the builder and see if the have an alternative suggestion. It's not as if you plan to tow a 10,000 pound trainer over Colorado mountain passes in 100 degree weather. It seems as if this is a pleasure vehicle. Now that being said, HPL has a number of interesting offerings in 5w-40 and 10w-40. I cannot see a need here for a 20w-50. @Pablo might also have some opinions and suggestions for an Amsoil alternative.

Thanks for your input sir. I'm a C-17 IP here at the AF schoolhouse. I've followed your aviation content here for some time, thanks for sharing from your experiences and expertise.

Definitely a pleasure vehicle, it's a 1 ton drivetrain in a half ton body and I don't use it for much more than towing a couple thousand pounds across town ... or maybe across country when I PCS.

 

[Astro_Guy]

I've followed your aviation content here for some time, thanks for sharing from your experiences and expertise.

@Cruisin'n5thgear I believe you have me confused for @Astro14. He is the pilot and I am the astronomer.

 

[PontiacHO]

It’s a mystery to me that the OP spent a lot of money to have a well known engine shop build a street performance engine but yet ask strangers what oil to use. Apparently the shop told you what to use. If you trusted their expertise to build your engine then trust their specific directions for oil.

 

[Patman]

It’s a mystery to me that the OP spent a lot of money to have a well known engine shop build a street performance engine but yet ask strangers what oil to use. Apparently the shop told you what to use. If you trusted their expertise to build your engine then trust their specific directions for oil.

Engine builders often don’t know much about oils and often don’t have good advice. Like the recent thread about an engine builder who doesn’t recommend synthetic for the first 9000 miles, despite the fact that many new cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.

 

[TXHunter]

View attachment 344906

Given the bearing info, I would prefer a 5w-40 or 10w-40 oil if this were mine. HPL Premium Plus, HPL Euro, Amsoil Z-Rod, Driven Racing HR, Rotella T6, or Valvoline VR1 lines would all work pretty well for your setup IMO. Doing oil analysis to watch oxidation in an engine that sits, you can safely find the sweet spot in how long you can extend the oil of your choice before draining. As you said mileage won't be the limiting factor.

 

[Nick Garrett]

Id like a 15w50 offering. Either Maxima RS1550, HPL Bad Ass 15w50, Driven HR3 or DT50 15w50. (You can get HPL BAS in a 10w50 and technically Driven DT50 is a 10w50 now as well)

 

[PontiacHO]

Engine builders often don’t know much about oils and often don’t have good advice. Like the recent thread about an engine builder who doesn’t recommend synthetic for the first 9000 miles, despite the fact that many new cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.

We can agree to disagree. When a professional engine builder* has a warranty return that he is expected to “eat” because of improper break in, incorrect oil used, or overheating due to owners’ negligence he knows exactly what advice to give to lessen the chances of a return. Sure, maybe he doesn’t know the in-depth formulas for oils but he knows what’s working…

*there’s plenty of self-proclaimed professionals but they don’t last.
In the OP’s case, this is a well established company.

 

[donnyj08]

I would probably look at Redline 5w40 or 10w40.

If your builder is recommending 20w50 and you’re in a HOT climate like lower AZ Valvoline VR1 or M1 15w50 will be good economical options.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

@Cruisin'n5thgear I believe you have me confused for @Astro14. He is the pilot and I am the astronomer.

Yes I have. All you Astro guys are cool

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Engine builders often don’t know much about oils and often don’t have good advice. Like the recent thread about an engine builder who doesn’t recommend synthetic for the first 9000 miles, despite the fact that many new cars come from the factory with synthetic oil.

You said it better than I could have. I value the expertise here and want another set of opinions. Obviously will run his specification during warranty.

 

[Auto tech]

Run exactly what they tell you to until the warranty Is over. Otherwise they will try to wiggle out of the warranty if you have any issues

 

[TheDunk67]

Clearances aren't necessarily loose enough that I'd consider a 50w. May perform better with 40w or even 30w. Run what the builder recommends through at least break in and pay attention to oil pressure. 50w could keep it pegged on the relief spring when cold, and more pressure than needed when hot. You're in a hot region so maybe 50w is warranted. The pressure gauge will give an indication of weight. I can't recommend any particular oil over another, not knowledgeable enough for that.

 

[Astro_Guy]

Yes I have. All you Astro guys are cool

@Cruisin'n5thgear It's even better when @Astro14 and I have a conversation and the casual observer thinks that one of us is talking to himself.

 

[Pablo]

I may have missed it. What exactly does the warranty REQUIRE? Not recommend.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

I need to get the warranty in hand to confirm. It's being installed right now in Yuma so I will pick up the completed truck soon.

I will be picking up oil from Bostick for three changes, one to be done after 200 miles. He has done one or two already.

So the decision point will be a while from now. I will consult with him on going to a thinner weight, prob some variation of 40 weight.

I would feel iffy starting it up in the winter, in the teens °F, on 50 weight. So an easy choice for a pleasure vehicle is to just not drive it when it's that cold.

 

[Pablo]

Clearances aren't necessarily loose enough that I'd consider a 50w. May perform better with 40w or even 30w. Run what the builder recommends through at least break in and pay attention to oil pressure. 50w could keep it pegged on the relief spring when cold, and more pressure than needed when hot. You're in a hot region so maybe 50w is warranted. The pressure gauge will give an indication of weight. I can't recommend any particular oil over another, not knowledgeable enough for that.

Oklahoma can be hot but not AZ 465 days a year hot

Most 5W-40 will shear to 30 range quick enough so I would use caution with longer runs

 

[Astro_Guy]

Hopefully you have both oil pressure and oil temperature gauges installed. These should tell you much of what you need to know. Keep the pressure where it needs to be at minimal oil temperature. Oils that are thicker than needed will run up your oil temperature for no benefit.

 

[Cruisin'n5thgear]

Hopefully you have both oil pressure and oil temperature gauges installed. These should tell you much of what you need to know. Keep the pressure where it needs to be at minimal oil temperature. Oils that are thicker than needed will run up your oil temperature for no benefit.

I have an oil pressure gauge but not temperature. Will put that and a trans temp gauge on the list of new gauges to add.

At some point an additional digital gauge stack might be nice to save interior space.