Oil recommendation for supercharged/road raced 5.0 Mustang

[Motorbike]

Since it's boosted and will see higher cylinder pressures I'd say bump the 15/50 up to 3-4 quarts and the remainder using the 10/30 with no additves. Might want to use more 15/50 come summer in Florida.

Guys at Max Suzuki are running 5/30 in their GSF1200's . One is a 170hp naturally aspirated hot street motor then it gets a big hit of nitrous and another is a Mr Turbo modded motor again on the street with well over 200hp . When they tear them down to inspect occasionaly both are in spec and look great in terms of bearing/cam wear ect.These are air/oil cooled motors and are pretty hard on a motor oil .

Yep, off the shelf 5/30 Supersyn with no additives and the kicker is they report no adverse shifting problems .

 

[buster]

quote:

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in fact despite Buster, the Amsoil Series 2000 20W-50 would work perfectly. See TooSlick, he's in 'bama.

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I suggested the same as what Alex D included, which was 20w-50 S2k.

[ November 28, 2003, 10:22 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[TooSlick]

You guys are all living in the dark ages when it comes to lubrication....

I bet y'all still use Ox fat to grease your wheel bearings?

Running thinner synthetics has been standard practice in professional racing - including some types of drag racing - for almost ten years now. If you knew the viscosity of the oils most Winston Cup engines ran, you'd be in shock. Here's a clue - they're not running some 20w-50, petroleum racing oil from the 1980's, or they wouldn't be competitive. They are also running some sort of thin, syncromesh fluid in the transmission and a 75w-90, not 85w-140, synthetic gear lube in the diffs.

I'd still start with the Amsoil 0w-30 or Redline 5w-30 and see if it's necessary to go one grade heavier to a 10w-40. If I was attempting to run Mobil 1, 10w-30 in this application, I'd thicken it up a bit by adding 1/3 to 1/2 of the 15w-50. The M1, 10w-30 doesn't have the level of antiwear additives needed for this type of application, straight from the bottle. If you look at the rate of valvetrain wear (Fe) in the UOA's, you'll see what I mean.

 

[Pablo]

TS - I would agree with you IF this was a 100% race vehicle that:
a) he was trying to eek out every last hp.
b) it would be rebuilt shortly and regularly, or he had 4 engines in garage. I distinctly read he was trying a tricky balance. I don't think a thin modern race oil is for him.

 

[TooSlick]

Paul,

Actually, it's just the opposite ....

Since he is mainly using this engine on the street, the 20w-50 is too thick to work well - MOST of the time. If he made his living racing and was going to be running a 500 mile endurance race every weekend, then the 20w-50 would provide better engine durability and I'd give up some top end performance. These "Fast and Furious" guys think they're racers, but they're not. They are simply folks who occasionally abuse their street engines ...

There is a world of difference in going 500 miles @ 200 mph and sliding around cones in a parking lot on the weekends, or even running short road courses.

An occasional short race is probably equal to putting another 5000 miles on the engine under street driving conditions. I honestly wouldn't lose any sleep over that ...

Have a safe trip ...I wish I was going! Still haven't made it to China or Aust/NZ yet

Ted

 

[Nitrox]

I'm definitely not one of those Fast and Furious guys you mentioned. If I were, I wouldn't care about what lubricants I'm using, and I sure wouldn't have posted the question here.

 

[buster]

I've been saying this for some time, and I got the idea from Redline's webpage and that is a well built 30wt oil from Redline or even the S2k 0w-30, which I'm not fond of, is suitable for racing. Why do you think Mobil 1 0w-30 R is being released? It's what is being used by Team Penske. These old 50wt oils for racing are going to be a thing of the past soon.

Pablo, no one said a 50wt CAN'T be used, it's just not necessary. Your running a 20w-50 in a very Highl mileage car, something not suitable for most newer cars today.

Tooslick Molekule mentioned something about not needing as much ZDDP due to some new form of it or other ways around it. I'll have to look it up.

[ November 29, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: buster ]

 

[jsharp]

quote:

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Originally posted by Nitrox:
One thing I failed to mention, the engine has a 7 quart Canton T-style oil pan. I had to ding the driver side part of the pan to clear the longtube headers, so I think the capacity is a bit under 7 quarts now. I have 2 5 quart jugs of M1 10W-30 already (grabbed then from WM when they were on sale couple months ago). What do you all think of using the jug of 10w-30 with a top off of 1 quart M1 15w-50, and the Molekule 132/lc brew?

Hope your turkey hangovers are going well.

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I used the M1 5W-30/#132 mix in my Toyota 3.4L V6 and it only thickened things up slightly, even using a full 16oz of 132 for 6 1/2 quarts of oil. Wear dropped measurably over just straight M1.

Nice choice on the oil pan. That should help with any starvation issues.

You're on the right track IMO but you'll get a ton of differing opinions here. Try one that seems reasonable to you, staying away from the extremes, then get the oil tested at a couple thousand mile interval and have Terry Dyson do a read on it.

From what I've seen usage and conditions make so much difference that it's the only way to really tailor what's best for your engine combo and usage...

[ November 29, 2003, 12:43 PM: Message edited by: jsharp ]