Oil Recommendation for 2015 MY15 WRX

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I still don't know how they can make a SN and A3/B4 5W-30, I must have missed something. But obviously they can, I must have got it wrong.

Anyway, two great full synthetics 5W-30 oils for you.
Shell Helix HX8 SN and A3/B4
Castrol Magnatec Stop Start SN and A3/B4.

GET SOME

(My confusion was that I thought the SN phosphorus limit for a ILSAC grade oil like 5W30 was 800ppm, while I thought a A3/B4 oil typically had phosphorus between 1000 to 1200 ppm)
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: SR5
WOW !!!! Where did that come from ???
A full synthetic 5W30 Magnatec……….must be Christmas


$51...had me regretting that I have a stash.

I would have had it in the Statesman this very afternoon if it weren't for the stash...


That is a good everyday price (for Australia), but the recent Edge 5W30 A3/B4 sale was better at $30 (regular price is $70)
 
So my short list would be:

Valvoline SynPower MST 5W-30, API SN and ACEA C3
Shell Helix HX8 5W-30, API SN and ACEA A3/B4
Castrol Magnatec Stop Start 5W-30, API SN and ACEA A3/B4 (the new full synthetic one only).

All full synthetic and high HTHS for extra protection.

All commonly available in sealed 5L bottles to pass to the mechanic.
 
Hi again guys after a long break. It seems like shell ultra professional is out now.
If I need to pick one of the following two oils, which one would provide better protection to my wrx?

(1) Shell Helix HX8 Engine Oil - 5W-30, 5 Litre
5W-30; API SN/CF; ACEA A3/B4; Full Synthetic
http://m.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Shell-Helix-HX8-Engine-Oil-5W-30-5-Litre/373035

(2) Shell Helix Ultra Professional AG 5W-30
API SN; ACEA C3; GMW16177 (dexos2™)
http://www.shell.com.au/products-service...ro-ag-5w30.html

It looks like everything seems same except A3/B4 vs ACEA C3.
 
Hello mate, was your WRX recalled for predetonation (which I suspect is LSPI)? Had to bring my '14 FXT with the 2.0l DIT in for it about a month ago, luckily had no major plug damage or poor leakdown test results.
Assuming this was an LSPI problem that the recall was addressing, there is some evidence that low calcium and some moly content in oil might help avoid LSPI. I have been using M1 5W30 for low calcium and am thinking about using the ESP flavor in that grade for a higher HTHS value. I am not familiar with the Helix products you mention, but I know their Pennzoil cousins in the US are mostly mid calcium levels compared to other US oils.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4025415/LSPI:_A_KNOCK_ON_THE_NEWEST_EN#Post4025415
 
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Hello mate, was your WRX recalled for predetonation (which I suspect is LSPI)? Had to bring my '14 FXT with the 2.0l DIT in for it about a month ago, luckily had no major plug damage or poor leakdown test results.
Assuming this was an LSPI problem that the recall was addressing, there is some evidence that low calcium and some moly content in oil might help avoid LSPI. I have been using M1 5W30 for low calcium and am thinking about using the ESP flavor in that grade for a higher HTHS value. I am not familiar with the Helix products you mention, but I know their Pennzoil cousins in the US are mostly mid calcium levels compared to other US oils.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4025415/LSPI:_A_KNOCK_ON_THE_NEWEST_EN#Post4025415


I have never heard of such issue. But thanks for the heads up. I will give a call to my local subaru dealer / service on monday to see if it is a recall in Australia.
 
Go with #1 because of the A3/B4
smile.gif
 
I would agree, unless there is some reason you want a low SAPS oil. You very well may, and it would be a suitable choice, provided you don't go overboard with the OCI. Castrol recommends the C3 lubricant as one of the options for my G37 in North America; of course they don't recommend 5w-30 A3/B4, because that one isn't SM or SN.
smirk.gif
 
I've got the same engine in a MY13 XT Forester and now that it's out of warranty and I'm doing my own changes I've decided to go for this new oil from Penrite http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_viscosity=106&id_products=710.

My car does a lot of shorter trips so like others I'm concerned with fuel dilution as well as the potential for piston deposits. This oil seems to be a balance between the Subaru recommended SN/GF5 and one that will better resist shearing down over time. I'll do an OA at 7500km and see how it's holding up.
 
Originally Posted By: mickjf
I've got the same engine in a MY13 XT Forester and now that it's out of warranty and I'm doing my own changes I've decided to go for this new oil from Penrite http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=1&id_viscosity=106&id_products=710.

My car does a lot of shorter trips so like others I'm concerned with fuel dilution as well as the potential for piston deposits. This oil seems to be a balance between the Subaru recommended SN/GF5 and one that will better resist shearing down over time. I'll do an OA at 7500km and see how it's holding up.


Hi Mickjf,
And Welcome !!

OK, Penrite Enviro+ C3 5W30 full synthetic. Yeah that looks like an interesting oil. It's looks to me like a mid-SAPS C3 oil (HTHS 3.5 or more) but they claim it meets the economy requirements of specs like C2, GF-5 etc which are normally lower in HTHS ( 2.9 or more). They also say it's NOT suitable for motorcycle wet clutches, and most Penrite oils are.

This says to me it's a high HTHS oil but with many friction modifiers added to make it slippery.
It has a TBN of 7.8 and a SA of 0.78, which is mid-SAPS to me. As you said, this may help with deposits.

As long as you don't go for too long an oil change interval (OCI) it should be fine. Best of both worlds as you say. When you get the oil analysis, make sure it includes TBN, as this is the where low SAPS oils can fail when there is too much sulphur in the fuel.

This Penrite oil is API SN and ACEA C3, but it also looks like they claim C2, MB 229.51, BMW LL-04 etc. Which is a nice list.
What's the damage ??

The full SAPS, Shell Helix HX8 5W-30 and Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 are pretty good value. They are both full synthetic oils rated SN and A3/B4. Just as another option for you.

Let us know how it goes.
 
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Oh BTW, just out of general interest, I was speaking to a mate the other day. He owns three WRXs, two he races and one his DD. The racing ones have the boost turned up to 21 psi, I think standard boost is about 12 psi. I'm not sure of his exact model years.

I asked him what oil he used, and he said Mobil Delvac MX 15W-40, a HDEO and here is it's PDS.

He's not a BITOGer, it's his engine builder / tuner's oil recommendation, but as soon as he said this I was reminded of Pablo's wise words.

Originally Posted By: Pablo

Now as for my recommendation, my 2014 WRX has the 2.5L engine and for THAT engine I recommend a couple short changes with a good synthetic 5W-30. Then switch to a good synthetic 0W-40
 
Originally Posted By: SR5
What's the damage ??

The full SAPS, Shell Helix HX8 5W-30 and Castrol Magnatec Stop-Start 5W-30 are pretty good value. They are both full synthetic oils rated SN and A3/B4. Just as another option for you.

Let us know how it goes.


Paid just under $50 per 5 litre bottle at Repco over the weekend with their 30% off Penrite. This oil is listed as new and I think it's just been released in the last month or so.
 
Originally Posted By: mickjf
Originally Posted By: SR5
What's the damage ??

Paid just under $50 per 5 litre bottle at Repco over the weekend with their 30% off Penrite. This oil is listed as new and I think it's just been released in the last month or so.


OK, that's a decent price (for Australia) and I'm glad you made the recent Penrite sale a Repco. 30% off is what I aim for.

Yeah the oil sounds new, I don't recall seeing it before, thanks for pointing it out to me. I think it should work well in your application, and better than something like M1 5W-30 which would cost more and have a lower HTHS.

Nothing wrong with M1 in the right application, I just find it a bit overpriced in Australia at $90 for 5L.

The good thing about doing the oil change yourself, is that you will spend less, but get a better quality oil.
 
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