Oil Recommendation for 2002 Ford Ranger XLT V6 3.0

[silverbow25]

I’m looking for an oil recommendation to put in my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT. It’s the V6 3.0 liter and is just over 100k miles. I have been running the manufacturer suggested 5w20 (supertech dino) in it for the last 15-20k miles. This truck probably only drives 4k-5k miles in a year and I don’t believe it has any leaks yet. This truck struggles with low oil pressure at idle (stoplights) only after the vehicle is well warmed up and I have seen a few suggestions in forums saying that 5w20 is too thin and that the only reason Ford suggested it was to get the advertised gas mileage.

With all this in mind I have been thinking of pushing it up to a 5w30 but thought it would be good to check opinions and also check if it would be a good idea to consider a synthetic for this vehicle. For all I know maybe it should have had a synthetic in it from the beginning.

 

[barkingspider]

I would run 5 or 10w 30. Your truck will just fine

 

[austinlunsford]

I never knew the Vulcan 3.0s were ever spec'ed for 5w20. I had a Taurus with the same engine, it was spec'ed for 5w30. You can probably run anything you want in that engine.

 

[BrocLuno]

I ran my work Ranger out to 258,000 miles before it went to auction. Still running fine. But I switched up to Delo400 15W-40 at about 125K because it wash getting pretty noisy. Quieted right down and ran a bit better

That was a while back. If I were to do it now, I'd go to Rotella T6 5W-40. It's a bit thinner than the Delo at temp. Something like a 35 or so (slightly heavy7 30), and only a 5W at cold start, so good on both ends

 

[Danno]

Originally Posted By: austinlunsford
I never knew the Vulcan 3.0s were ever spec'ed for 5w20. I had a Taurus with the same engine, it was spec'ed for 5w30. You can probably run anything you want in that engine.


My 2002 Ford Escape 3.0L was specced for 5W-20.

It was the "newest" thing back then.

 

[austinlunsford]

Originally Posted By: Danno
Originally Posted By: austinlunsford
I never knew the Vulcan 3.0s were ever spec'ed for 5w20. I had a Taurus with the same engine, it was spec'ed for 5w30. You can probably run anything you want in that engine.


My 2002 Ford Escape 3.0L was specced for 5W-20.

It was the "newest" thing back then.


Your Escape should have a Duratech 24v 3.0. I'm talking about the Vulcan OHV 12 valver.

 

[andyd]

Rat's push rod 4.0 specs 5w30. I would start with that to address the low oil pressure at warm idle. Is the fan clutch working?

 

[Tdbo]

5W20 or 5W30, either works well. It was back specc'd for 5W20, probably for CAFE purposes.
Running 5W30 in mine right now because I had it in my stash.
I like the 5W30 better, it makes the vehicle sound less like agricultural equipment.

 

[Nick1994]

Why do you think the oil pressure is low? Light flickering? Have you tried replacing the oil pressure sender?

I'd use Valvoline MaxLife 5w30 semi-synthetic and change once a year.

 

[silverbow25]

I just replaced the water pump and while I was at it replaced the fan clutch with a brand new one so it should be working.

The oil pressure gauge in that truck looks like a gauge but Ford brilliantly decided it was better to put in a switch that moves it to the bottom if it's less than 5 psi and back to the middle if it's above 5 psi. So what I get at a stoplight after the engine is warmed up is the gauge jumping all over the place which tells me the engine is cycling above and below 5 psi in a constant cycle. I haven't bothered replacing it because after researching it I have found many other people with the same issue and they said it wasn't likely a bad sender or gauge. If you give it gas it instantly goes back to normal. I'm not sure if this is even a big deal since it only happens at idle and maybe only if the truck is in gear (I haven't tested it in neutral recently).

 

[Branson304]

Valvoline MaxLife SynBlend 5W-30 & Motorcraft filter

 

[BrocLuno]

Just find a slightly heavier oil. Not all 5W-20's or 5W-30's are the same.

I would not run 5W-20 with that many miles. You could prolly get away with it, but why watch that needle jump ...

 

[UltrafanUK]

Originally Posted By: silverbow25
I’m looking for an oil recommendation to put in my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT. It’s the V6 3.0 liter and is just over 100k miles. I have been running the manufacturer suggested 5w20 (supertech dino) in it for the last 15-20k miles. This truck probably only drives 4k-5k miles in a year and I don’t believe it has any leaks yet. This truck struggles with low oil pressure at idle (stoplights) only after the vehicle is well warmed up and I have seen a few suggestions in forums saying that 5w20 is too thin and that the only reason Ford suggested it was to get the advertised gas mileage.

With all this in mind I have been thinking of pushing it up to a 5w30 but thought it would be good to check opinions and also check if it would be a good idea to consider a synthetic for this vehicle. For all I know maybe it should have had a synthetic in it from the beginning.


Ford do not recommend Supertech anything, they recommend Motorcraft parts as that is their company.

If you are having low oil pressure issues then assuming it's not an oil pump or badly worn engine, make sure it is not sludged up by using a major brand idle use only oil flush additive (Liqui Moly, Amsoil and Lubegard make good ones) just before an oil & filter change. Then move up to a major brand 0 or 5w30 oil with the correct API specs. If that does not solve the low oil pressure indications try an 0 or 5w40.

As you are changing oil & filter every year or 5K miles and this engine does not have a turbo, any major brand (Mobil, Castrol, Shell/Penn, Valvoline or Liqui Moly) oil of the correct API / Acea spec will do a good job.

If you are trying to find out if using an 0 or 5w20 is a good idea, check the oil finder or guide page of the engine oil company of your choice to see what they list, BUT look at a UK version of the web site (.co.uk). Very few engines are currently run on 20 grade oils in the UK except modern hybrids and the Iffy lube shops use Xw40 oils in most older cars and trucks.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Originally Posted By: silverbow25
I’m looking for an oil recommendation to put in my 2002 Ford Ranger XLT. It’s the V6 3.0 liter and is just over 100k miles. I have been running the manufacturer suggested 5w20 (supertech dino) in it for the last 15-20k miles. This truck probably only drives 4k-5k miles in a year and I don’t believe it has any leaks yet. This truck struggles with low oil pressure at idle (stoplights) only after the vehicle is well warmed up and I have seen a few suggestions in forums saying that 5w20 is too thin and that the only reason Ford suggested it was to get the advertised gas mileage.

With all this in mind I have been thinking of pushing it up to a 5w30 but thought it would be good to check opinions and also check if it would be a good idea to consider a synthetic for this vehicle. For all I know maybe it should have had a synthetic in it from the beginning.


Ford do not recommend Supertech anything, they recommend Motorcraft parts as that is their company.

If you are having low oil pressure issues then assuming it's not an oil pump or badly worn engine, make sure it is not sludged up by using a major brand idle use only oil flush additive (Liqui Moly, Amsoil and Lubegard make good ones) just before an oil & filter change. Then move up to a major brand 0 or 5w30 oil with the correct API specs. If that does not solve the low oil pressure indications try an 0 or 5w40.

As you are changing oil & filter every year or 5K miles and this engine does not have a turbo, any major brand (Mobil, Castrol, Shell/Penn, Valvoline or Liqui Moly) oil of the correct API / Acea spec will do a good job.

If you are trying to find out if using an 0 or 5w20 is a good idea, check the oil finder or guide page of the engine oil company of your choice to see what they list, BUT look at a UK version of the web site (.co.uk). Very few engines are currently run on 20 grade oils in the UK except modern hybrids and the Iffy lube shops use Xw40 oils in most older cars and trucks.
First of all, there's nothing wrong with running a 20 weight oil in this Ford. Second of slog there's nothing wrong with Supertech oil. Third of all, an "oil flush additive" is the last thing I'd do to this truck.

I still think the oil pressure sender is bad. My mom's Buick did the same thing. It's a $15 part.

 

[jdavis]

Funny, I just watched this youtube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0HzsMXz7OUM

I had the exact same thing happen with the same engine at the same mileage as this guy ~130k

 

[4WD]

There are many good 5w30's out there that'd make for a solid next step ...

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
First of all, there's nothing wrong with running a 20 weight oil in this Ford. Second of slog there's nothing wrong with Supertech oil. Third of all, an "oil flush additive" is the last thing I'd do to this truck.

I still think the oil pressure sender is bad. My mom's Buick did the same thing. It's a $15 part.
Darn autocorrect.

*Second of all

 

[UltrafanUK]

This engine is a 2002 old block with 100K miles and low oil pressure issues. The design oil spec would have been an Xw30, so when considering the engines age it's one bad idea to use an Xw20 unless the OP is chasing ultimate low fuel consumption figures.

Look at the VOA of Supertech, then look at Mobil 1 or Penn Ultra of the same SAE and API spec and you will see it is rather lacking in additives. It also uses a less expensive base stock, although that is of less importance than the add pack.

It is always possible that the oil pressure gauge or warning light sensor is faulty, although under reading is a lot less common than a failure.

Nothing wrong with using a major brand oil flush, although it can increase any existing oil leaks for a while. In a very rare case it might be good to change to an HM oil or use a can of stop leak if the drip rate is too high.
If you do have oil leaks and sludge, it is often less trouble to just run a few short OCI's using a good cleaner oil, Amsoil Mobil 1 or Penn Ultra will all clean up sludge very well, although it will take a number of OCI's to shift top end varnish.

 

[rrounds]

I run Rotella 5/40 and change it once a year(around 9k miles) in my '99 with the 3L V6. Have ran the Rotella for the last 11 years, don't even have to add oil to my truck during the year it never gets to the add mark. Have 170k miles on my truck and I do load it up with 1200 to 1500 pounds(have over load springs) not all the time but do fill it up with fire wood. This Ford has never let me stranded on the side of the road. Its been a great little truck.

ROD

 

[FlyNavyP3]

Seems to be a lot of suggestions flying here, so why not one more. I take no issue with your choice of ST oil, it meets the minimum specs to be API SN and GF5 it's also likely better oil than the SL/SM that your engine specified when new. Sure there are better oils out there but it's not an exotic application by any stretch of the imagination, frankly it doesn't need an oil that's twice the price of the ST conventional. It would seem to me the next logical step would be to step up to ST 5w30 or 5w30 HM and run it another year. If the problem persists it would have on a 5w30 expensive oil too. You can always pull the sender and fit a mechanical gauge, you may just find that you don't need to change a thing.

Simple logical progression and investigation will tell you more than letting someone shame or bully you into no longer running the so called "inferior" Super Tech conventional.