NW PA, on the fringe of lake effect, never get hit by no'easters and only get the tail end of ohio valley stuff. which means we sometimes get screwed on snowfall, but get to enjoy the low low temps.
oil recommendation for 1994 F150
- Thread starter Execut1ve
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I always used 5w or 10w-30 in my 91 5.0 F150 4wd. It ran great up to 140k whien I traded it in on the '99.
There isn't all that much difference between 5w or 10w-30. Use either with confidence until you know what the difference is. But either is better than a 40w in the winter!
As for Motorcraft semi-syn, there are much worse choices. I'd use it in a heartbeat.
There isn't all that much difference between 5w or 10w-30. Use either with confidence until you know what the difference is. But either is better than a 40w in the winter!
As for Motorcraft semi-syn, there are much worse choices. I'd use it in a heartbeat.
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OVERKILL
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I agree on the 40w part, but not the 10W. I run 5w40 and 0w40 in mine. But have run down to a 0w20 during the winter. They are very forgiving engines, and both of mine make WAY more power than yours does. One of them easily 2x. And with higher mileage.
Factory oil pressure "gauge" is junk, even if it is an actual "gauge" and not a dummy switch. Get yourself a nice Autometer mechanical gauge, some braided line, and plumb that in instead.
The primary pressure fitting is directly in front of the oil filter. The secondary feed, if you want to measure from the back is behind the intake IIRC. But I would have to check on that one, not 100% sure as to the exact location at this moment.
Between myself and my dad, we've put 600,000Km on three 5.0L's. They are my favorite engine. Difference between ours and yours is that ours have all been roller. Subsequently, I wouldn't suggest anything Xw20 in your old girl, as I think '94 is still flat tappet (cars went roller in '85). But with a rather low specific power output, it is still very easy service.
M1 0w40 (which would do some much needed cleaning) or Delvac 1/M1 TDT 5w40, or Rotella 5w40 would be my choice in this engine.
Factory oil pressure "gauge" is junk, even if it is an actual "gauge" and not a dummy switch. Get yourself a nice Autometer mechanical gauge, some braided line, and plumb that in instead.
The primary pressure fitting is directly in front of the oil filter. The secondary feed, if you want to measure from the back is behind the intake IIRC. But I would have to check on that one, not 100% sure as to the exact location at this moment.
Between myself and my dad, we've put 600,000Km on three 5.0L's. They are my favorite engine. Difference between ours and yours is that ours have all been roller. Subsequently, I wouldn't suggest anything Xw20 in your old girl, as I think '94 is still flat tappet (cars went roller in '85). But with a rather low specific power output, it is still very easy service.
M1 0w40 (which would do some much needed cleaning) or Delvac 1/M1 TDT 5w40, or Rotella 5w40 would be my choice in this engine.
I saw the M1 0w-40, I wondered if anyone would suggest that. Can you link me to some more knowledge on the autometer gauge?
actually those autometer gauges look to be out of my price range, think a gauge by Equus would suffice?
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
actually those autometer gauges look to be out of my price range, think a gauge by Equus would suffice?
You should be able to get one at a speed shop for under $50.00 if you shop around. You just need the one gauge for now
Definitely buy a good gauge.
actually those autometer gauges look to be out of my price range, think a gauge by Equus would suffice?
You should be able to get one at a speed shop for under $50.00 if you shop around. You just need the one gauge for now
Definitely buy a good gauge.
so you think http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/EQU0/6244.oap?pt=N0528&ppt=C0134 would be unsuitable? my budget is really very limited
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
I'm not really a fan of that brand of gauges. Try these:
1. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2421/
2. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-350240/
3. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2332/ (this is Autometer's value line)
4. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-89611/
2-4 should be more in your price range.
1. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2421/
2. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/VDO-350240/
3. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-2332/ (this is Autometer's value line)
4. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MOR-89611/
2-4 should be more in your price range.
Those are more doable. Mind if I ask what there is against the Equus brand? besides personal preference. I'll add this to my truck to-do list as soon as my truck budget is replenished
I got a free 1990 F150 5.0 4WD from a relative (105,000 miles), it has had nothing but 5W-30 or 10W-30 it's entire life and runs fine with no issues. I put Supertech 5W-30 dino and a motorcraft filter on it before winter and have no problems getting it started in sub zero temps. I have never considered using a 10W-40 in this truck and I never would, but that's just my opinion.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: Buick92
I got a free 1990 F150 5.0 4WD from a relative (105,000 miles), it has had nothing but 5W-30 or 10W-30 it's entire life and runs fine with no issues. I put Supertech 5W-30 dino and a motorcraft filter on it before winter and have no problems getting it started in sub zero temps. I have never considered using a 10W-40 in this truck and I never would, but that's just my opinion.
My Lincoln spent the majority of its life on 5w30. About half of that was M1 5w30, the rest was dealer bulk. I switched it to 0w40 when I increased the power output.
Windsor engines are very durable. The reason I suggested 0w40 for the OP is because of the cleaning that probably needs to be done due to its previous oil change (or the lack thereof) history.
I got a free 1990 F150 5.0 4WD from a relative (105,000 miles), it has had nothing but 5W-30 or 10W-30 it's entire life and runs fine with no issues. I put Supertech 5W-30 dino and a motorcraft filter on it before winter and have no problems getting it started in sub zero temps. I have never considered using a 10W-40 in this truck and I never would, but that's just my opinion.
My Lincoln spent the majority of its life on 5w30. About half of that was M1 5w30, the rest was dealer bulk. I switched it to 0w40 when I increased the power output.
Windsor engines are very durable. The reason I suggested 0w40 for the OP is because of the cleaning that probably needs to be done due to its previous oil change (or the lack thereof) history.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
Those are more doable. Mind if I ask what there is against the Equus brand? besides personal preference. I'll add this to my truck to-do list as soon as my truck budget is replenished
I've seen them break. I've also seen them be inaccurate.
Those are more doable. Mind if I ask what there is against the Equus brand? besides personal preference. I'll add this to my truck to-do list as soon as my truck budget is replenished
I've seen them break. I've also seen them be inaccurate.
very persuasive
I can't argue with that. what exactly did you do with your lincoln?
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
very persuasive
I can't argue with that. what exactly did you do with your lincoln?
A fresh set of milled E7's with new valves and springs, Cobra 1.7 ratio roller rockers, FMS "E" camshaft, Explorer intake, Lightning EGR spacer, 65mm throttle body, FMS double-roller timing set, MSD 6A box, MAF conversion with Mustang A9P ECM and C&L 76mm MAF, Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan conversion, pollution pump delete, true duals (still have stock manifolds right now though, haven't put headers on it yet) w/H-pipe into flowmasters, 3G alternator upgrade....etc. Also did full suspension with PI rear sway-bar, poly bushings, Monroe PI shocks and springs and sat her on 17x9" Cobra R's.
Stock shortblock is untouched. Cam bearings looked like new when I swapped the cam out. Lifter valley wasn't as clean as I hoped it would be. Mustang engine (now in the Capri) was spotless. You could have eaten out of it.
very persuasive
A fresh set of milled E7's with new valves and springs, Cobra 1.7 ratio roller rockers, FMS "E" camshaft, Explorer intake, Lightning EGR spacer, 65mm throttle body, FMS double-roller timing set, MSD 6A box, MAF conversion with Mustang A9P ECM and C&L 76mm MAF, Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan conversion, pollution pump delete, true duals (still have stock manifolds right now though, haven't put headers on it yet) w/H-pipe into flowmasters, 3G alternator upgrade....etc. Also did full suspension with PI rear sway-bar, poly bushings, Monroe PI shocks and springs and sat her on 17x9" Cobra R's.
Stock shortblock is untouched. Cam bearings looked like new when I swapped the cam out. Lifter valley wasn't as clean as I hoped it would be. Mustang engine (now in the Capri) was spotless. You could have eaten out of it.
sounds good, I'm hoping to do some mods on the truck once I have everything running well -- maybe an e-fan, alt upgrade, true duals, ignition upgrade, some kind of intake -- but I'm aiming more to increase my fuel econ. I don't have any fantasies about making this 4500 lb truck quick lol
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
sounds good, I'm hoping to do some mods on the truck once I have everything running well -- maybe an e-fan, alt upgrade, true duals, ignition upgrade, some kind of intake -- but I'm aiming more to increase my fuel econ. I don't have any fantasies about making this 4500 lb truck quick lol
Roller cam conversion would be a good idea if you aren't scared to crack the engine open. The bosses for the factory roller spider will be there. If you are lucky, they will already be drilled and tapped. If you are really lucky, the truck is already roller
If that's the case, you could swap in an HO cam, some fresh valve springs (TFS makes a dirt-cheap kit) and some 1.7's. That setup would still play well with the factory speed density system. The truck intake isn't bad. I wouldn't worry about it. The Mustang intake is the one that is junk. As was the one on my Lincoln. The Explorer intake is the best of the factory ones. But isn't an easy swap onto your truck.
sounds good, I'm hoping to do some mods on the truck once I have everything running well -- maybe an e-fan, alt upgrade, true duals, ignition upgrade, some kind of intake -- but I'm aiming more to increase my fuel econ. I don't have any fantasies about making this 4500 lb truck quick lol
Roller cam conversion would be a good idea if you aren't scared to crack the engine open. The bosses for the factory roller spider will be there. If you are lucky, they will already be drilled and tapped. If you are really lucky, the truck is already roller
If that's the case, you could swap in an HO cam, some fresh valve springs (TFS makes a dirt-cheap kit) and some 1.7's. That setup would still play well with the factory speed density system. The truck intake isn't bad. I wouldn't worry about it. The Mustang intake is the one that is junk. As was the one on my Lincoln. The Explorer intake is the best of the factory ones. But isn't an easy swap onto your truck.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
They are very forgiving engines, and both of mine make WAY more power than yours does. One of them easily 2x. And with higher mileage.
But with a rather low specific power output, it is still very easy service.
This is a curious reply you gave him, his 94 5.0 F150 made 205hp, 275 T, your 82 capri made 138hp if standard, 157 if the mercury 'gt' and 270T, the town car made 150hp (160 if dual exhaust) and 270T.
and his truck had an axle ratio availability that you cannot get - he most likely has the 3.55 but could have the 373 or 410 (Id have to look on that)
So Im not sure the issue you have with his specific output. (most people dont know this, but unless you got a cobra, the heads used were all E7TEs, the lower intake the same and the cam grind nearly the same.
They are very forgiving engines, and both of mine make WAY more power than yours does. One of them easily 2x. And with higher mileage.
But with a rather low specific power output, it is still very easy service.
This is a curious reply you gave him, his 94 5.0 F150 made 205hp, 275 T, your 82 capri made 138hp if standard, 157 if the mercury 'gt' and 270T, the town car made 150hp (160 if dual exhaust) and 270T.
and his truck had an axle ratio availability that you cannot get - he most likely has the 3.55 but could have the 373 or 410 (Id have to look on that)
So Im not sure the issue you have with his specific output. (most people dont know this, but unless you got a cobra, the heads used were all E7TEs, the lower intake the same and the cam grind nearly the same.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
very persuasive
I can't argue with that. what exactly did you do with your lincoln?
A fresh set of milled E7's with new valves and springs, Cobra 1.7 ratio roller rockers, FMS "E" camshaft, Explorer intake, Lightning EGR spacer, 65mm throttle body, FMS double-roller timing set, MSD 6A box, MAF conversion with Mustang A9P ECM and C&L 76mm MAF, Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan conversion, pollution pump delete, true duals (still have stock manifolds right now though, haven't put headers on it yet) w/H-pipe into flowmasters, 3G alternator upgrade....etc. Also did full suspension with PI rear sway-bar, poly bushings, Monroe PI shocks and springs and sat her on 17x9" Cobra R's.
Stock shortblock is untouched. Cam bearings looked like new when I swapped the cam out. Lifter valley wasn't as clean as I hoped it would be. Mustang engine (now in the Capri) was spotless. You could have eaten out of it.
I didnt see the phrases "hi pressure fuel pump", "24lb injectors" and recalibrated MAF in there.
that is what you need to climb above 240hp in the 302 using only milled E7 heads and the E303 Cam. You need to seriously remove metal from an E7 to get it to flow anywhere near a GT40 or P head. Forget about X heads or Z heads. since he has 205hp, 410hp is MAYBE doable in a 302, but it would have Z heads, X303 cam (or special grind) and cobra intakes or better and 30lb injectors.
Originally Posted By: Execut1ve
very persuasive
A fresh set of milled E7's with new valves and springs, Cobra 1.7 ratio roller rockers, FMS "E" camshaft, Explorer intake, Lightning EGR spacer, 65mm throttle body, FMS double-roller timing set, MSD 6A box, MAF conversion with Mustang A9P ECM and C&L 76mm MAF, Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan conversion, pollution pump delete, true duals (still have stock manifolds right now though, haven't put headers on it yet) w/H-pipe into flowmasters, 3G alternator upgrade....etc. Also did full suspension with PI rear sway-bar, poly bushings, Monroe PI shocks and springs and sat her on 17x9" Cobra R's.
Stock shortblock is untouched. Cam bearings looked like new when I swapped the cam out. Lifter valley wasn't as clean as I hoped it would be. Mustang engine (now in the Capri) was spotless. You could have eaten out of it.
I didnt see the phrases "hi pressure fuel pump", "24lb injectors" and recalibrated MAF in there.
that is what you need to climb above 240hp in the 302 using only milled E7 heads and the E303 Cam. You need to seriously remove metal from an E7 to get it to flow anywhere near a GT40 or P head. Forget about X heads or Z heads. since he has 205hp, 410hp is MAYBE doable in a 302, but it would have Z heads, X303 cam (or special grind) and cobra intakes or better and 30lb injectors.
I'm pretty sure it's a flat tappet. I hadn't planned to get hard core into engine work, that stuff can get pricey
I've been hoping to keep the mods restricted to stuff that will mostly pay for itself in fuel savings over a reasonable amount of time.
I actually had no auto repair experience prior to the truck, which I got in August. You think that upper engine work would enhance my fuel econ any? BTW I meant the air intake, not the upper intake manifold. Although the upper intake manifold could stand a good cleaning. I've been debating some of the short ram air intakes like K&N, airraid or AFE. Not sure if they give any real benefits or just hype though
I actually had no auto repair experience prior to the truck, which I got in August. You think that upper engine work would enhance my fuel econ any? BTW I meant the air intake, not the upper intake manifold. Although the upper intake manifold could stand a good cleaning. I've been debating some of the short ram air intakes like K&N, airraid or AFE. Not sure if they give any real benefits or just hype though
Quad I have 3.55 gears
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