Oil Pan FIPG - Best Practices?

[JZiggy]

Planning to reseal a Toyota oil pan using Toyota black FIPG made for oil pans. Steel oil pan, cast iron block. I'm currently planning on the following process but am open to advice:

- Clean mating surfaces, wipe with IP alcohol and allow to dry
- Apply FIPG on oil pan in a single bead as per Toyota FSM instructions, going around the inner side of the bolt holes
- Assemble immediately
- Working from center outward in a spiral, bring all bolts to finger tight and then up to final 9 ft-lb torque in a couple steps (like 3, 6, 9 ft-lb)
- Allow min 24hr before filling with oil

Some folks suggest an additional step. After installing the oil pan and bringing bolts to finger tight they suggest to wait some period of time like 30min or 1 hr and then bring bolts to full torque. The Toyota FSM doesn't mention this so I don't plan to do it but perhaps it's still a good idea.

Any other suggestions?

 

[BigD1]

I will be doing a Toyota oil pan in the near future that seals with gasket makers.

I am going to use Permatex the Right Stuff, and will surround the bolt holes after the main bead is laid down. Right Stuff can be put back in service immediately no waiting.

 

[kschachn]

If you are using actual Toyota FIPG then follow the instructions as given in the FSM. To deviate from that is to ask for problems down the road. Essentially the same instructions are given for Honda Ultra Flange II, both of which could be used in this application (Hondabond is no longer recommended for oil pans). I have used both on my cars and they work very well. The Permatex Right Stuff seems to be the same as the Honda Ultra Flange II. One advantage to the Honda Ultra Flange II and the Permatex Right Stuff is that you can put the vehicle back into service immediately.

Are you doing this with the engine out of the car and upside down? If not then oil drainage/dripping is going to be a problem. The only way I've gotten around that is have it drip and drain for a couple of days and then stuff some paper towels or rags up into the engine to absorb the remaining oil. Just before you are ready to lift the pan in place you remove the rags or towels and that gives you enough time to get the pan in place before another drip makes it down to the sealing surface. In this case waiting any time before torquing the bolts could cause failure if oil gets between the pan and the block.

I also cut off some longer bolts and temporarily screwed them into the block to act as guide pins for installing the pan. It makes it easier and less likely to smear the sealant.

 

[JZiggy]

Thanks for the input guys.

I'm doing this with the engine in the car and fortunately I have been able to give it a few days to drip, so I'm not too worried about oil contamination.

Actual Toyota FIPG, yes. From what I have read this is similar chemistry to Right Stuff and some of the HondaBond stuff, with things like Permatex Ultra Black being a different animal. I'll take your advise and forget the wait time - install and torque promptly after installing the pan.

Any particular reason surrounding the bolt holes with the FIPG bead is a good idea or not?

 

[Linctex]

Originally Posted by JZiggy

Any particular reason surrounding the bolt holes with the FIPG bead is a good idea or not?


There is no need, as long as the continuous bead is inside the perimeter of the bolts.

You will find the squeeze out to be a RIDIUCLOUS amount if you lay a full "bead".

Most people apply way too much.

 

[kschachn]

Yes people often apply too much. Follow the FSM for bead width, placement and timing and it will work fine.

 

[JZiggy]

Great, thanks guys. Confirming that following the FSM is always a good idea.