Oil On Spark Plug Threads?

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Replaced the plugs on a 2002 Honda Odyssey with 70k miles. They still seemed in good shape, but I was reading that if you leave them in too long, they can seize.

I coated the threads with anti-seize compound.

One of the plugs had some visible oil on the threads - to the point where it would transfer onto my finger. This is perplexing because the car uses no oil. The electrode seemed fine. I have 3k on this OCI, and the dipstick still reads full. The other 5 cylinders were fine.

What is the reddish ring around the base of the porcelain? Is that rust?

Maybe the car seems more responsive. Or maybe it is my imagination.

It was an easy job. One hour start to finish.



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Guess I did right then.
I've used Champion for 60+ years and the other day put NGK's in my 96 Dodge 318.
I have read that many Dodge owners like them so I tried them.
It was nippy out so I didn't mess with anti-seize. Then I see this thread and I did it right!
Imagine that.
 
Time for spark plug tube seals (grommets). Takes about 30 minutes. Remove valve cover, install new seals.

Plenty of youtube videos on how to.
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Time for spark plug tube seals (grommets). Takes about 30 minutes. Remove valve cover, install new seals.

Plenty of youtube videos on how to.


Ditto
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Time for spark plug tube seals (grommets). Takes about 30 minutes. Remove valve cover, install new seals.

Plenty of youtube videos on how to.

30 minutes? I am afraid NOT on a V6 Honda! It is a multi-hour job. You have to take off the intake manifold.
 
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First let me say that you did fine using anti seize, plugs can and do seize in the head under certain conditions all of the variables are too many to post.

I have used it on almost every plug i have ever installed in every engine since 1972 and never had a problem, back in those days with 10K tune ups in a dealership environment as an apprentice that could have been 40 plugs and 10 sets of points on a busy day.
One engine stands out in my mind, the Ford Kent engines. If you didn't use anti seize on these and left the plugs 30K you would (not maybe) end up pulling the head to drill them out.

The real issue is not so much a performance issue or a good or bad issue as it is a liability issue, although these can be all problem areas if the product is misused.
Most manufacturers have a published torque spec even in their owners manuals and when anti seize is used that figure must be reduced or stripped thread are a real possibility especially on aluminum heads.

Realizing this is one of the biggest DIY performed by car owners it would be amiss for a company like NGK to advocate the use of this product.
Doing so would mean they have to take it upon themselves to amend the manufacturers spec and assume the liability for doing so.
No company is going to open that door so they coat the thread with zinc or nickel which should prevent seizing, it doesn't change the torque value but it isn't ideal either.

The other issue is they have no control of the application of the product. If too much is used it can short the plug out causing a misfire and possibly cat damage.
Over tightening can lead to stripped threads or seat galling, why would they even dream of recommending this product?

Proper application is an absolute must just a light coating on the threads no where near the electrodes and a reduction in torque by 30% is a must unless the manufacturer specs for wet threads.

Eg Honda on some engines years ago recommended engine oil be used on the threads and their torque spec reflected this.
Ford was having some problems with stuck threads and immediately recommended anti seize be used.

As far as Champion not recommending it, they offer a anti seize just for park plugs.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/antiseize.php

Notice it is for aircraft. Not much DIY but done by a professional mechanic.

I have always lived in a salt and high corrosion area. In other areas where corrosion is not an issue you probably don't need anti seize on anything.
This little rant is based on my experiences and opinions gathered over decades of working in this kind of climate.

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Edit: As far as oil on the threads, just look at the boots, if its wet with oil then as others have said tube seals.
Not a 30 min job on this engine.
 
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What I find perplexing about that NGK link, that the anti ant-sieze
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guys seem to not notice, is that while NGK is warning about breaking the plugs when the anti-sieze is used, they recommend ant-sieze for non coated plug without any mention of torque reduction.
 
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