Oil Leaking from Drain Plug

I bought a bag of those blue fiber coated washers on eBay. They were listed as Toyota OEM. BS. It took a lot of effort to scrape off the fiber layer that stuck to the oil pan on a friend's 2013 Highlander.
I always got my blue washers from the Toyota dealer, and they charged a crazy amount for them...like close to $2. They always came off cleanly, I just hated having to aways pull out a flat bladed screw driver to pick or knock it off the oil pan. Bought a bag of 100 aluminum crush washers off Amazon for $14...lifetime supply.
 
Back when I swapped out my 6L80 transmission pan for a high-cap pan, I developed a seep. It was fairly minor, so I let it go until the next time I return to the shop. Fortunately, it stopped on its own after about a week or so, and the most I ever got on the floor was just a few drops. 🤞
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I finally got around to changing the oil.

The old drain crush washer was pancaked so hard it was difficult to remove it past the threads.

I used a new one and torqued it to spec. Then I tried applying more torque to see if it is easy to pancake and it didn't turn at all.

Someone must have REALLY overtorqued the drain plug.

So far there is no drips, but crush washers are $2.25 each at the dealer so the BITOGer saying he's not Richie Rich has a good point.
 
I finally got around to changing the oil.

The old drain crush washer was pancaked so hard it was difficult to remove it past the threads.

I used a new one and torqued it to spec. Then I tried applying more torque to see if it is easy to pancake and it didn't turn at all.

Someone must have REALLY overtorqued the drain plug.

So far there is no drips, but crush washers are $2.25 each at the dealer so the BITOGer saying he's not Richie Rich has a good point.
There:
 
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Back when I swapped out my 6L80 transmission pan for a high-cap pan, I developed a seep. It was fairly minor, so I let it go until the next time I return to the shop. Fortunately, it stopped on its own after about a week or so, and the most I ever got on the floor was just a few drops. 🤞
@SaberOne I'm about to do this drop and swap on my 6L80 but a B&M pan. Did you use any adhesive on the seal? Also, did you use teflon thread tape on the drain plug? Any advice would be appreciated!
 
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Suggest people Google these two companies and download their pdf. Corteco and Kelpro.

There you will find full information on sump plugs and crush washers, including material type and dimensions for all vehicles.

Provided the sump plug threads are not damaged and the correct crush washer is used and torqued as per specifications, there will be no leaks.

I know some people try to save money by reusing the old washer and not have leaks, that is pure luck and at some point, they will be bitten on the ass and may lose some/perhaps all of their expensive oil including their own time.

In the trade we have a saying: if in doubt chuck it out. No one like comebacks.
 
"So what is the shop vac trick?"
I thought he found a way to "hold" the oil in the pan while he pulled the plug by pulling a vacuum lol. I have an Extractor, never thought of using my shop vac for that. That's reservered for cat vomit. Ewww........
 
I wonder how many cars are out there with strain hardened copper and aluminum drain bolt washers that no longer seal sufficiently.
 
Suggest people Google these two companies and download their pdf. Corteco and Kelpro.

There you will find full information on sump plugs and crush washers, including material type and dimensions for all vehicles.

Provided the sump plug threads are not damaged and the correct crush washer is used and torqued as per specifications, there will be no leaks.

I know some people try to save money by reusing the old washer and not have leaks, that is pure luck and at some point, they will be bitten on the ass and may lose some/perhaps all of their expensive oil including their own time.

In the trade we have a saying: if in doubt chuck it out. No one like comebacks.
Correct torque one finger on an 8" box end should be just about right if you don't have roomatize!
 
I had a 2019 Mazda 3 hatch. It did this exact thing. I unfortunately lost the full 5qts of Mobil 1 ep, but I replaced the crush washer, and it solved my issue.




Not really sure why but the Toyota guys are pretty adamant about using a new washer every change so I just bought a bag of OEM washers off Ebay and put a new one on every oil change. Certainly can't hurt I guess and they are cheap enough.
 
I used to use teflon tape on the threads of an vehicle I had with a seep at the drain plug. I guess the Permatex stuff shown in this thread is is a better choice. Ever since I got a new oil pan on my Sportwagen (aluminum upgraded one vs. the stock plastic one) I'm getting a minor seep/drip. New crush washer doesn't seem to help.
 
I don't replace the crush washer at every service but it is a good idea to replace them occasionally IMO. They are not expensive. I go 5-6 services on one crush washer, sometimes more... that's like 4+ years. One benefit of torqueing the plug correctly: it takes a long time for the crush washer to get mangled and need replacement.
 
There:
Those look to be aluminum washers that don't really permantly "crush" down like a true "crush washer". That's what I use on all my vehicles - the motorcycles come with similar drain washer from the factory. I've never had one leak and reuse them every oil change. They don't wear out.
 
Its still leaking. The threads must be buggered up.

I used a torque wrench to tighten and a new washer.
It's more likely some flaw or contamination on the oil pan or drain plug surfaces where the plug gasket makes contact. Those are the surfaces that make the seal, not the threads.
 
Those look to be aluminum washers that don't really permantly "crush" down like a true "crush washer". That's what I use on all my vehicles - the motorcycles come with similar drain washer from the factory. I've never had one leak and reuse them every oil change. They don't wear out.
They flatten out over time. I’ve seen it. Some of them get so flat that you have to cut them off.
 
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