A broken clock is correct twice a day.
OIl Grade Suggestion for 300k 6.0L Chevy..
- Thread starter RcClockman
- Start date
She looks clean! If you can, update this thread months from now and let everyone know how the weight changed consumption. It's good info. There are lots of high mileage 6.0s running around.
ya i will, just bought 2.5 Gallon Jug of Syn Delo last night for $50...
Ok, so Got the 15w-40 in there, and so far Oil Pressure back up quite a bit! Hot Idle used to be at 20Psi, now at about 35psi. and Highway psi went from 38 to 55 Psi.... These are number that the truck used to have in its younger days... Will report back in a few thousand miles as far as consumtion...
UPDATE! After a 1000 miles, The engine used one quart of oil exacty... So consumption is basicly the same, The good news is Oil pressure is were is should be at, but i would say that i definatly noticed some reduction in power with the thicker stuff in there....I dont know whats better, less oil pressure, but more power, or more normal oil pressure with less power...
Your oil pressure was good beforehand. Delo 15W-40 is quite volatile at ~11% according to PQIA. Mobil 1 FS Euro 0W-40 would split the difference in viscosity, has more ZDDP, and is less volatile. I'd recommend trying that next, preferably with 1 quart of HPL EC to clean around the rings and reduce the consumption.
The OP said they used Delo syn, I don't think PQIA has tested 15W-40 Delo XSP, the only thing I can find is the results from almost 5 years ago for their "conventional" tier in the blue bottle.
Also Delo XSP 15W40 has more phos than Mobil 1 0W40, it meets the ford spec for diesels and has around the CK-4 limit.
Getting close to hitting 300k and 5000 miles on the Chevron Delo Syn 15-40, getting a blackstone Kit and will post results in a few Months..
I’ll add that GM revised the left valve cover for LS engines. It helps reduce oil getting sucked into the PCV system and drawn into the intake. They are cheap and easy to buy. I would see if there is an updated valve cover for your engine.
Im going to order that new one now and report back in a few months...Thanks!
I had to do this to my 2005. The PCV was completely sludged up in it, sucking oil into the intake. No more oil consumption after that fix, with over 240k miles.
I ordered the left valve cover for mine. I changed the intake gaskets and the intake had oil in it. I decided to order the new valve cover. I'll stick it on this evening.
I have a 2016 2500hd with a 6.0 and 100k miles. This thread really concerns me, because I just got a GM credit card in anticipation of buying a new truck when my 2016 wears out. PLEASE DO NOT TELL ME I NEED TO DRIVE ANOTHER 200k MILES BEFORE I GET A NEW TRUCK.
Thank you for letting me vent
Thank you for letting me vent
I have a 2016 2500hd with a 6.0 and 100k miles. This thread really concerns me, because I just got a GM credit card in anticipation of buying a new truck when my 2016 wears out. PLEASE DO NOT TELL ME I NEED TO DRIVE ANOTHER 200k MILES BEFORE I GET A NEW TRUCK.
Thank you for letting me vent
Whether you drive it another 200k miles or somebody else does, it'll likely not be worn out at that point either.
If someone has the money to throw around for a new vehicle, power to them. (not directing this at you) I'm in a few "dad" related FB groups and see it frequently where guys will be panicking because their family car is coming up on 100k miles, they're worried it's going to start falling apart, and absolutely have to get rid of it for a brand new vehicle right away. It bothers me more than it should, but most of these guys are struggling financially with 2 big car payments on new vehicles for both spouses, not to mention taxes and insurance that goes along with it, and barely keeping food on the table because they're hemorrhaging 40% of their net income on new car payments over an irrational fear of "high mileage". They're also the ones complaining that the dealer refused to change their oil under the free oil change deal because they only had 3,000 miles on it. "The dealer wants my engine to blow up so I'll buy a new vehicle. [expletive] them! DON'T BUY A TOYOTA!!!" (exact quote minus the swear word) I just want to reach across the internet and slap them.
Ok Well, After Putting on the new Updated Driverside Valve cover, I can report that after 1000 miles, it still uses one Quart of Oil! The new cover doesnt have a removable PVC valve like the original one did, it looks to be a permanant built in one... So Im due soon to Change my oil at the 300K mark, im 600 miles away... Any other weights or Oils you guys want me to try/suggest for the next oil change?! Im actually considering going back to conventional oil as this thing eats so much! I added 5 Quarts to go 5000 miles....The funny thing is, thats what Gm says in "acceptable oil consumtion" wich is 1 quart per 100 gallons of fuel, wich is about 10 mpg. thats what i Average....
That's too bad. Mine went from 1qt every 2k miles to neglegible in 5k miles. I'm only at 240k miles though and not towing regularly.
I'd go with 15w40 conventional if it seems like a waste going through so much oil.
- Mobil Delvac 1300 Super Heavy Duty Synthetic Blend Diesel Engine Oil 15W-40, 2.5 gal jug for $34.78, so $3.48/qt.
- Super Tech Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil 15W-40 is $23.97 for a 2 gallon jug, so $2.99/qt.
- I'd strongly consider a piston soak with Berryman B12. The longer, the better, just keep it topped off and loosely install the spark plugs to prevent evaporation. Occasional 1/4-1/2 turn (by hand) on the crankshaft will accelerate the process. Make sure to top off to the brim again after that small rotation. (Haven't read the whole thread, so sorry if that's already been tried.)
Try the regular Mobil 1 0w40. It's a thinner 40wt. Additive package is stout. I know it's been reformulated but I ran it in my old LS6 CTS-V and that car went past 200,000 miles without a valve cover coming off. Used maybe 2/3rds of a quart every 4-5000 miles.
I'll add that maybe it's worth doing a leak down west and compression test to determine engine health first...if it seems good to go then do the piston soak (when the plugs are already out for the compression test would be a good time).
I had the shop I used to work at do my leak down test and all cylinders but one were apparently like new and one was lower but still well within tolerance.
I did that before replacing the valve cover and fixing the oil
smoke/consumption issue.
245k miles I'm still on the original cats and o2 sensors despite the smoke it used to blow occasionally from the valve cover issue.
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