I understood that XW-30 oils may not be designed to have adequate viscosity
Cujet, is that illustration from an aviation publication? TBO Advisor by chance? Anyhow, I have been looking for that article for years now. My memory isn’t what it was.. I seem to recall it was a Mercedes Benz and Shell study?Rotella 15W-40 may also a good choice. But to say any 10W-30 is "fine" may not be correct. The HTHS (viscosity at high temp) of 10W-30 oils can fall far short of straight 30. I lost 2 Honda water pump engines due to XW-30 conventional oils. I simply switched to Mobil 1, 15W-50 and the problem was solved.
The issue became clear when I understood that XW-30 oils may not be designed to have adequate viscosity at the operating temperatures of some air cooled engines.
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@Cujet your chart is labeled as data from passenger car diesel engines.Rotella 15W-40 may also a good choice. But to say any 10W-30 is "fine" may not be correct. The HTHS (viscosity at high temp) of 10W-30 oils can fall far short of straight 30. I lost 2 Honda water pump engines due to XW-30 conventional oils. I simply switched to Mobil 1, 15W-50 and the problem was solved.
The issue became clear when I understood that XW-30 oils may not be designed to have adequate viscosity at the operating temperatures of some air cooled engines.
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@Cujet 's chart is plotting data for diesel powered passenger cars.I have a CHonda generator I bought recently. The manual says I can use SAE30, 5w-30 full syn, or 10W-30 depending on temp. I broke it in with SAE30 but switched now to 5w-30 full syn. I am rethinking switching back to SAE30 based on cujets post? Thoughts? Its not used much - for emergency purposes. I start it monthly is about all?
SameI use SAE 30 and I have no problems finding it.
You really shouldn't have any issues. Briggs and Stratton states that 10w30 might have more burn off than SAE 30 in their manuals, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't use it. I have a customer that runs 5w20 in all of his lawn equipment and has done so for years because he feels he uses less fuel. I really don't think it makes much difference, but he has never had any issues since he checks the oil frequently. I find 15w40 to be very similar to SAE 30, and more readily available, so that is usually what I use/recommend for my small engine customers and my own equipment. The answer for "what oil?" in a small engine is usually "whatever is oil and is kept full".I have a bunch of PYB 10W30 that I use im my mower and I have no problems with using it.
I've probably run that oil on and off in OPE for over 40 years w/o issue. It works quite well in fact.You really shouldn't have any issues. Briggs and Stratton states that 10w30 might have more burn off than SAE 30 in their manuals, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't use it. I have a customer that runs 5w20 in all of his lawn equipment and has done so for years because he feels he uses less fuel. I really don't think it makes much difference, but he has never had any issues since he checks the oil frequently. I find 15w40 to be very similar to SAE 30, and more readily available, so that is usually what I use/recommend for my small engine customers and my own equipment. The answer for "what oil?" in a small engine is usually "whatever is oil and is kept full".
I see lots of blown up engines every year, most are due to low oil/no oil and also other problems like mouse nests causing overheating.
I'm a heretic and use M1 0W-40 or D1 5W-40 in my OPE.The Briggs manuals recommend straight 30 weight for their older engines, but it is getting harder to find. I have looked at Supertech, Rotella, or even just using 10w-30. What do you use or recommend in this case?