Oil for Ford Ranger 2024 Lion Engine 3.0 Diesel

[tgiannak]

Hello,

i recently got a ford ranger 2024 3.0 diesel with a lion engine which states for a Ford WSS-M2C913-D 5w30, i understand that is a A5/B5 oil with some extra specs by ford.
I dont want to go to the dealer route to 20.000km OCI..
and im very cautious with the dealer since a friend of mine with the same car did an oil change and they put to him castrol LL 5W30 which is VW504/507 whats up with that?

i want to do my own changes in the middle..i have found ravenol fds and liqui moly special tec f any recommendations between the 2?

ALSO in my country they are swearing in general by Bardahl Plasma LXR with E-P4 base 5w30 new oil, which meets and supersedes by far A7/B7 specs according to them...i couldnt find a review or mention on the site which is very alarming!! but i dont know if that spec is good for my car ..

i really want to hear your thoughts and wish you all happy holidays!!

im posting specs for the 3

 

[JavierH19]

Is this the one with a wet belt? From what I understand long intervals are terrible for the wet belt but that doesn't mean that if you do short 4,000 km intervals you can get 400,000km out of the belt. It will still fail but fail later though it helps.

As for oil anything that at least meets spec will do but if it just meets spec it should be changed very frequently. Truthfully i'd rather find the cheapest yet still suitable oil from a reputable brand and use those savings to change very frequently like no more than 5,000 km.

This badge engineered vw uses the ford ranger's diesel engine and the belt was beginning to fail. Looked too dirty inside for the mileage in my opinion so I think the long intervals hurt the belt. Change it frequently and still begin to budget for a new belt at 150-200k km

Edit - Forgot to answer the LL and bardahl part. The LL 5w-30 is a C3 rated oil and It's a lower saps diesel oil that meets bmw LL-04 and MB 229.51 which is good enough for any light duty dpf diesel.

I would not use A5/B5 if it was mine I find it to be a bit thin. Some people think the ford WSS stuff is this magical liquid that is the only thing that will make the wet belt last forever and that anything else will ruin it but it's not the case.

As for the bardahl we have no availability in the US so we have no personal experience and A7/B7 is just A5/B5 with lspi tests for the gas engines that can have that issue. Still wouldn't use it in my engines unless they called for 0w-16 or less.

 

[rollins.]

The 3.0l tdv6 is used in several Ford/PSA/LR/Jaguar and (looks like) they still incorporate a "traditional" timing belt .

The intermediate change between two dealer's changes is a good thing and I personally would do it -but with dealer's oil and filter...if anything,God forbid, happened...until the warranty end.

In Europe you have a truly vast range of options:

-ACEA A3/B4 xw-30/40 oil (since OEM WSS-M2C913-D is a high SAPS ,lower ht/hs category,based on ACEA A5/B5...)...but coupled with a stringent OEM category like MB 229.5

-ACEA C3 oil ,again coupled with a stringent category like vw 504/507...or Mercedes 229.51/52

-HDEO of similar SAPS levels, abundant in Europe (MB 228.51/.52...Volvo VDS-4.5 etc) of 5w-30/40 visc. (ACEA E8 / ACEA E11)

About the vw 504.00/507.00 - it is a robust spec , your friend has nothing to worry about it. I would not run it 20K. though.

https://online.lubrizol.com/relperf...DE5NjkkbzEwJGcwJHQxNzY2OTgxOTY5JGo2MCRsMCRoMA..

I would stay under 10K km./1 year interval "light duty"(highway use) / 5-7K km. "heavy duty" use no matter waht the owner's manual or dealer suggest. With the mandatory FAME content (</=7%vol) and the ULSD (<10ppm) ACEA C3...VW 504/507...MB 229.51/52 ...or ACEA E8...E11 would be absolutely fine with the realistic oil change intervals.

If you decide (or have) to use fuel of questionable standard, go with the A3/B4 or HDEO oils+shorter interval.

After the warranty end I'd drop completely the use of A5/B5 ...C2/6/7...or any other possible lower ht/hs viscosity oils.

 

[tgiannak]

Is this the one with a wet belt?

fortunately no! wet belt has only the 2.0 liter variant! i have the 3.0 liter with a chain i dont know if it is good or bad news because everytime i start in the morning i hear a little tick from the tensioner for a few secs..every car like mine do the same sound since i double checked on the forums and videos with other members..

The intermediate change between two dealer's changes is a good thing and I personally would do it -but with dealer's oil and filter...if anything,God forbid, happened...until the warranty end.


After the warranty end I'd drop completely the use of A5/B5 ...C2/6/7...or any other possible lower ht/hs viscosity oils.

yeah im thinking about 7-8k OCI since i dont tow or anything heavy use. if we dont care for warranty for a minute what specs will be using ?
since vw504 was installed by the dealer is a better spec'ed oil from fords spec 913d?

 

[rollins.]

I'd take 504/507 over the Ford -13d spec anyday.

Warranty worries aside,the (above) recommendation, in no particular order (and NOT the 20K interval,lol) :

-ACEA A3/B4 xw-30/40 oil (since OEM WSS-M2C913-D is a high SAPS ,lower ht/hs category,based on ACEA A5/B5...)...but coupled with a stringent OEM category like MB 229.5

-ACEA C3 oil ,again coupled with a stringent category like vw 504/507...or Mercedes 229.51/52

-HDEO of similar SAPS levels, abundant in Europe (MB 228.51/.52...Volvo VDS-4.5 etc) of 5w-30/40 visc. (ACEA E8 / ACEA E11). Slight correction here,
these allow for 10w-30/40 too,which is absolutely fine in Greece's climate.Most of these 10w-X ,to cover the current OEM demands, are now synthetic(GTL/Gr.III etc.).

Look around what else you have in the garage,then check with the offerings of the local lube dealers and get something that serves more units at the same time (save some euro. This is easily attainable in Europe ...get bigger volume of lubricant X that covers the demands of all/or much of the equipement you need to service. Local Shell production would be the first to look up. Their mid-SAPS would be fine in not-so-modern gasolene applications too despite lack of formal "gas" approval).
Any of these would outperform the M2C913-D demands.

First check what you have as local offerings and ask away if you have a particular product in mind (I would not use any of the oils you suggested post warranty).

Look up again the engine,it is not just a timing chain methinks.

 

[fantastic]

Personally would use a C3 before an A5/B5 or A7/B7.

 

[tgiannak]

I'd take 504/507 over the Ford -13d spec anyday.

First check what you have as local offerings and ask away if you have a particular product in mind (I would not use any of the oils you suggested post warranty).

Look up again the engine,it is not just a timing chain methinks.

yes you are right it has 2 DRY V- belts one front and one back!

the noise on startup is like a tapping noise for2-3 secs (maybe lifters etc....?)

thanks for the recommendations, found some

 

[rollins.]

Yep,both solid choices !
Note that both have official OEM approvals. I'd keep using similar products and stay away from such having labels with just "fulfills the demands of..." or "recommended for..." etc. but not a single stringent OEM official approval.
The OEM categories are regularly updated too .

Also for the future you may want to check out the price of products in these two lists :

https://bevo.mercedes-benz-trucks.com/sheet/DTFR_15C110/en

https://bevo.mercedes-benz-trucks.com/sheet/DTFR_15C120/en

 

[YZJB]

Absolutely agree, you should not use the A5/B5 oil. It is too thin for this engine which is known for bearing issues and snapping crankshafts.

I use a 5W-40 C3 in all Lion engines and they love it. It provides additional engine and DPF protection. I use a 5W-40 C3 with MB 229.51 approval (Penrite Enviro+ 5W-40 in Australia).

 

[YZJB]

Also the tapping on startup is normal for a Lion. Make sure it doesn’t last more than 2-3 seconds. The engine has two timing belts and two timing chains (the large front belt for the exhaust cams, the small rear belt for the high pressure fuel pump, then two small chains which tie the exhaust and inlet cams together). The small chains have tensioners which are spring loaded + oil pressure fed and they make some noise until they have oil pressure.

If the noise lasts more than 2-3 seconds then confirm the anti-drainback valve is still in-place within the oil filter housing. They have been known to break off which means the oil drains out of the housing between restarts, also constant reduced running oil pressure, and can damage the engine.

 

[tgiannak]

Also for the future you may want to check out the price of products in these two lists :

https://bevo.mercedes-benz-trucks.com/sheet/DTFR_15C110/en

https://bevo.mercedes-benz-trucks.com/sheet/DTFR_15C120/en

thank you

thats new mb specs???

Also the tapping on startup is normal for a Lion. Make sure it doesn’t last more than 2-3 seconds. The engine has two timing belts and two timing chains (the large front belt for the exhaust cams, the small rear belt for the high pressure fuel pump, then two small chains which tie the exhaust and inlet cams together). The small chains have tensioners which are spring loaded + oil pressure fed and they make some noise until they have oil pressure.

If the noise lasts more than 2-3 seconds then confirm the anti-drainback valve is still in-place within the oil filter housing. They have been known to break off which means the oil drains out of the housing between restarts, also constant reduced running oil pressure, and can damage the engine.

yes you are right! i also have a drain back valve in hand just in case i found it broken on the oil housing!

thank you all for the replies and happy new year

 

[rollins.]

They've been trying to annoy as many people as possible. Not new,but "renamed" so to say,here are the correspondences (I guess the oil marketers will still be using the old ones for a decade at least) :

https://bevo.mercedes-benz-trucks.com/DTFR_Overview.pdf

https://media.lubrizol.com/-/media/...e-The-Year-of-Change/Daimler-Truck-poster.pdf


And Happy New Year !

 

[tgiannak]

Also the tapping on startup is normal for a Lion. Make sure it doesn’t last more than 2-3 seconds. The engine has two timing belts and two timing chains (the large front belt for the exhaust cams, the small rear belt for the high pressure fuel pump, then two small chains which tie the exhaust and inlet cams together). The small chains have tensioners which are spring loaded + oil pressure fed and they make some noise until they have oil pressure.

If the noise lasts more than 2-3 seconds then confirm the anti-drainback valve is still in-place within the oil filter housing. They have been known to break off which means the oil drains out of the housing between restarts, also constant reduced running oil pressure, and can damage the engine.

also found this! shell 5w40 pure plus at 30euro per 5l!! since you said about 5w40 for the lion!