Oil for an 03 Mazda6 ?

[oilpan49]

Hey,

My sister just brought home a 2003 Mazda6 with the semi automatic transmission.

The car has 17K miles and it was registered as a fleet car when it was new. It wasn't used as a taxi but more of a rental car thing.

She's in grad school in her internship going for her p.h.d in psychology, so she needed something more reliable than what she had, which was a 96 Cirrus.

Anyway, to make things more specific here, she drives about 60% city at speeds between 25-35 and when she comes home back here it's about 40% at speeds between 65-70.

I havn't seen the owners manual for what they reccomend, moreover I can't even find the oil filter on the **** thing! The engine is a 2.4L 16valve 4banger. Underneath the car is a big plastic cover that hides most of the underneath components and I suspect that under that cover is probably where the filter hides.

She's never a lead foot and usually doesn't do anything stupid as far burnouts from a stop or anything crazy like that. Matter of fact I don't think I've ever seen her take a car past 4000RPM unless absolutely necessary.

I'll take a look at what the manual says for the recommended viscosity, maybe run that in the spring and summer and a 0w30 synthetic in the winter for cold start protection. Most of the family here uses Mobil1 as well as my dad in his Honda.

Would an A-Rx flush be in order too? The car runs super quiet at idle. The oil was changed at the dealership with I dunno and some filter, havn't located it yet.

Thanks,,,,AR

 

[Paul_l]

The 2.3l 4 cyl is speced for 5w20. There are a good number of UOA for that motor as well as it's big brother V6 at www.mazda6tech.com. I'd go with the Motorcraft 5w20 is you want to stay with dino, or M1 0w20 if you want to go syn. If it is really hot where she lives consider GC, I use it in my V6 Mazda6 with very good results.

Be aware that the 4 cyl motor uses a cartridge style filter that is only available at the dealer. I believe you have to remove part of a shroud to access the drainplug and the filter housing.

 

[Ugly3]

On the assumption that she drives long enough to fully warm up the engine (the city driving part) my guess would be that synthetic 0w20 is a good choice. Thay way Dad or Bro could change it for her when she is at home and that way you could be sure it get done.

It is improbable that a "cleaning" is necessary after only 17,000 miles with no "issues" staring you in the face.

Good luck!

 

[unDummy]

Stick with Mobil1 0w20 since you already use that brand.
5w20 is what it calls for year round. With synthetic, you can probably follow the textbook maintenance(7.5k miles) schedule since the change takes more time then normal(annoyance).

If the dealer did a change, most likely it is with the 5w20 and OEM filter.

The 2.3L hasn't had any teething problems that I know of. An oil/filter change is a PITA. Remove shroud, drain oil, remove cartridge filter(without breaking it), replace 2 filter Orings, and reinstall everything. I've done this 1/2 dozen times already and hate it(along with other new cars with engine covering above and below).

Online stores sell the filter/Orings cheaper than any dealer that I've visited. The cartridge filter needs a good fitting filter wrench. Uneven pressure during removal will crack it.

Some have converted the cartridge 2.3L filter components with the normal canister 2.0L(Mazda3) components. This costs about $50 and makes the filter change easier/cheaper/reliable. The plastic cartridge has broken in some vehicles already causing quick engine death. This is usually not an issue with the canister type filter.

The automatic(lemon) has a bad history in multiple Mazda/Ford vehicles. It has a drain plug and takes about ~3 quarts of MerconV. I recommend that the ATF be drained/refilled at every oil change to prevent furture problems. The ATF drain/refill only adds about $10 and 10 minutes to the oil change when done at the same time. Well worth it considering the engine shroud is removed and the ATF drainplug is staring right at you.

Visit dealer for all recalls and TSBs.

 

[mikep]

I see no reason at all to spend money on Mobil 1 for this car. There have been plenty of UOA posted here and at 6tech showing outstanding results using the Motorcraft 5w-20. IMO, using Mobil 1 is simply a waste of money in the Mazda6 and Ford modular v-8 engines. With the Motorcraft 5w-20 you're getting a hydrocracked, group II / III blended synthetic for $1.42 per qt. that is putting up consistently low wear numbers in vehicles spec'd for 5w-20 use. It's also showing it can stand up to some very hard use! The only way I could see spending the cashola for Mobil 1 would be to extend drains out past 7500 miles.

It would be a very tall task to convince me that Mobil 1 0w-20 is going to yield performance that is 3 dollars a qt. over and above that of the Motorcraft. To be honest, I'm not even convinced Mobil 1 performs on a par with some other low cost, 5w-20 oils (in these cars).

 

[oilpan49]

Thanks for the advice everyone and the link to the forum Paul!

I need to make some clarification, the Mazda has a 2.4L not a 2.3 Also, I use Mobil1 in just about everything around here but I have never tried 0w20.

No hard feelings I hope, just some clarification, that's all.


Most of her trips, if not all them for that matter, she does drive it long enough to get the engine to "operating temprature(sp?)

Weather conditions around here as of right now are about between 70-80 in the day and about 50-60 at night. Though, occasionally we'll have those 90* days and about 70 at night with about 90-95% humidity, but those nights are only on occasions. Normally around here, at this time it will be about between 85-90 since it being August but this summer has been rather cool for what it has been.

Ok enough talk, Thanks again!,,,AR

 

[unDummy]

Pop the hood and take a picture. Mine has a 2.3L.
If it has a 2.4L, I wonder how much power it has. There's no substitute for cc's.

 

[Paul_l]

Airborne Ranger, I'm not sure who or what told you that the Mazda6 4 cyl is a 2.4L, but I can assure you that if you have a four banger, it is the Ford/Mazda corporate 2.3L. The only other motor available is the 3.0L V6.

 

[oilpan49]

Yea guys I need to apologize, dumbass attack I guess, lol

The car does have a 2.3L 16valve. That's my fault, so my apologizes!

The 6tech forums say that Motorcraft 5w20 with a OEM mazda filter or a Motorcraft PF-810S or something like that???? Or what Ugly and Undummy mentioned M1 0w20. I'm assuming 0w20 would be ok for long trips when she goes back to college with the A/C on? My concious tells me that 5w30 M1 would be better for the summer heat conditions.

Thanks everyone,,,,,AR

 

[crossbow]

AR,

The 2.3L Mazda 6i uses a cartridge based oil filter. It must be purchased directly through Mazda dealers, or from "known" online retailers.

http://www.mazdastuff.com

Sells the 2.3L filters at a lower then normal cost. Because there is only a single supplier for these filters, the price is controlled, and quite a bit higher then an average oil filter.

The FL-820S filter is stock only on the 6s, which uses a modified 3.0 Liter V6 Duratec block.

As for 5w30 for heat concerns...there shouldn't be any. Most of the 5w-20 and 0w-20 UOA's are in high heat, high humidity areas, including...

Florida, Texas, Maryland, Virginia, and California.

Some of the individuals doing UOA's in these area's are also racing their 6's...again with 20 wt oils.

As mikep pointed out, you just can't beat the 5w-20 motorcraft oil. Its extremely inexpensive, and boasts wear #'s very close if not equivilant to many of the higher priced synthetic 20 wt's. At 1.44/qt there just really isn't a better oil for the 6i.