oil for '72 Ferrari

[javacontour]

quote:

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Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Guys he has rebuilt the engine! Rest assured that part of that $9000 rebuild was new seals! THe new seals would be made from modern florocarbons not leather, rope and natural rubber! If I had to venture a guess I would hope that the kit used Fruedenburg-Nok seals!

Nok brand seals are CNC machined from a solid piece of the material being used. They are not injection molded like cheap seals!

With this said he will not have any oil related compatability problems!

Delvac-1 5W40 is going to give you excellent flow, pumpability and TBN retension! It will provide much better valvetrain protection. Castrol 20W50 is not a bad oil but it takes to long to pump up in a car that is not driven frequently and is already experinceing egg shelling on the cam lobes!

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Even for a rebuild in 1986 like was stated before?

TB

 

[yannis]

First of all Agip does make the semi-synthetic Sint 2000 10W40, which i have to admit is a very good oil .
Secondly the french oil company ELF has developed some special oils for oldies like yours.


web page

I guess money is not a problem for you.
You could order them directly from France

 

[Pantdino]

This question of what kind of seals would have been used in 1986 is a good one. I'll try to call a Ferrari dealer on Monday and hope I can talk to someone who was doing that work on Dinos at that time. May be easier said than done.

 

[Pantdino]

I called Ferrari of Los Gatos today, which is where my engine was rebuilt in 1986, and was referred to an older-sounding gentleman who informed me that, yes, the seals then would be compatible with synthetic oils. But he also said:

The specific power output / bearing surface ratio is such that the oil is not very stressed, and dino oil is fine.

The bearing clearances then were not as tight as now, and you need at least a 15-40 oil viscosity.

Once a month startup shouldn't be a problem re unprotected metal because there will still be a film present. He said if I want to I could let the car cool (so the oil thickens) then start it just long enough to spread oil around in the engine before shutting it down.

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It occurred to me that, although I don't study the oil temp gauge when I drive, I think it's usually about 80-90*C. As the car has a coolant-oil heat exchanger and probably a 190*F thermostat, this would make sense. So maybe I should choose an oil that will give me roughly 18 cSt viscosity at 80-90*C? My thinking is that since I don't require a full 50 wt viscosity (18 cSt at 100*C), maybe i can use the 15-40 and decrease my warmup wear. With 8.5 quarts and 2.4 liters, it takes at least 15 minutes of driving to get to 60*C oil temp, below which you have to baby the engine.