Oil Filter Tightening vs Outside Temp vs Engine Temp

Canister caps torqued to book spec.
Conventional can filters turn until is touches, then pick a reference point and add 3/4 turn.

Precisely, the torque spec and the rotation spec are to ensure consistency.

I don’t think the index finger oil rub is as good as SuperLube O ring grease

That is a legit question, imo. I’ve seen japanese filters that are pre-greased. But they also tend to have a round o-ring vs square faced.
 
Precisely, the torque spec and the rotation spec are to ensure consistency.



That is a legit question, imo. I’ve seen japanese filters that are pre-greased. But they also tend to have a round o-ring vs square faced.
Yep - I like to do this on the two of mine that are cartridge w/ o rings … either or on the GM cans …
 
So I did the change today before winter really sinks its teeth.
This link.
In all honesty, it only twisted on half way round before I couldn't continue without really grunting and grimacing. Hands were actually cleaner than usual, too. My filter wrench is the toothy jaw type, so wasn't going to try and use that to put it any further. I don't have any other filter wrench.

Anyway, I appreciate the insight. It seems that an unmoving filter might just be inevitable. Others have seen this in passing or on purpose, so is nothing new.

Thanks again, all.
 
I always hand tighten the filter, but not being able to control the outside temperatures, I lube the gasket with 0w or 5w if below freezing and 10w oil if above freezing. In extremely hot weather 30w. Just joking, but if you hand tighten with the gasket well lubed and it comes of hard, so be it. It's better to come off hard than to leak and lose an engine because of not being tight enough.
Yep, I once had a drain plug get a tad loose on my 4wd Frontier so I bought a plug with a drilled head and it gets wired every time now. I have always used a new Nissan funky crush washer but never used a torque wrench. Now I have peace of mind but I also hate removing the oil filter because of the difficult reach through the tiny hole that nearly always cuts my arm.
 
I have never really tightened up oil filters that tight and I have never had one leak and have also never had any trouble removing them at the end of the interval either. I think that over tightening them is completely unnecessary.
 
So when it's tightened as tight as you can get it by hand I assume that's one hand? Or you would say "by hands". People on BITOG really need to be specific when providing advice.
 
Wear gloves and strip them just before putting the filter on so you have a clean hand. Yeah I know that'll give you even more torque. If the filter's in a bad spot there are cool tools that'll give you more leverage. But I'd rather have it confidently on there.
Buy yourself real good tools for removal of a tight filter .Then you will have the confidence ,in the chance it's tight.Fresh oil,go by the manufacturer recommendations. Don't experiment with tightness for ease of removal.Different cars,filter manufacturer can be a bit different. But you most definitely don't want oil blowing out because of a loose filter.Some filters have better grips and checking filter fit at a parts store might help..Confidence,good tools,you can do this
 
I've always been small and weak and now I'm old small and weak and never had a leaker with hand tightening a spin on basically as hard as I can turn it with a clean filter and clean hands.
 
So when it's tightened as tight as you can get it by hand I assume that's one hand? Or you would say "by hands". People on BITOG really need to be specific when providing advice.

You’re right, hand tight for Arnold Schwarzenegger is different than hand tight for a lot of us. (If you’re going by the “tight as you can get it” ideology.

Every spin-on oil filter that I’ve put on is tight enough with 3/4-1 turn after the gasket makes contact. I’m not a big guy, and I’m using one hand.
 
You’re right, hand tight for Arnold Schwarzenegger is different than hand tight for a lot of us. (If you’re going by the “tight as you can get it” ideology.

Every spin-on oil filter that I’ve put on is tight enough with 3/4-1 turn after the gasket makes contact. I’m not a big guy, and I’m using one hand.
Also one can tighten a large filter tighter because you can wrap two hands around it vs a small filter (Subaru).
 
Howdy BITOG crew.
I am soon to change the oil on my 2013 Mazda 6. Now that it is cold where I am, it sprung a question... How tight should the filter go on depending on the temps of everything?
Last year, I did the wife's car (2015 Mazda 5) in the cold of winter. I ran the car only to get it on the rino ramps, so not hot. Then did the change. The filter went on as usual... spin till connect, then tighten as far as my filmy hand can do it before slipping, maybe 1/2 to 2/3 turn. The next change was in the spring and that filter was on hard. It was alarming how much effort it took with the toothy filter wrench to back it off.
Any advice on things to consider when changing to prevent a locked-on filter? I don't think I can control the outside temps. Maybe can run the car longer and will definitely keep it less tight.
Much appreciated.
CVLW
Quarter turn more when cold outside so it doesn't get loose when the gasket becomes more squishy when warm
 
I've done quite a few oil changes outside in the winter. Looking back, maybe nothing more than -15c, so nothing crazy. There was no issues because the engine is warm already. No one is going to drain -15c oil, unless you are profoundly simple. The oil filter may be left out and get cold but you hand crank it on the housing and move on. Never in my life have I had a leaking or loose oil filter.
 
I always just tighten them as much as I can by hand. If i have trouble reaching the filter I tighten it with this type of filter wrench:
https://www.amazon.com/QQWD-Wrenches-Compatible-Mercedes-Sprinter/dp/B0F844DSFC/
Just to make sure it's tight enough and won't leak, and usually just a little.

Removal is with this type of oil filter wrench:
https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-oil-filter-wrench-cam-action-large/13036.html
It crushed the filter a little on the removal process and it always works.

Either way I am using ratchet.
 
Howdy BITOG crew.
I am soon to change the oil on my 2013 Mazda 6. Now that it is cold where I am, it sprung a question... How tight should the filter go on depending on the temps of everything?
Last year, I did the wife's car (2015 Mazda 5) in the cold of winter. I ran the car only to get it on the rino ramps, so not hot. Then did the change. The filter went on as usual... spin till connect, then tighten as far as my filmy hand can do it before slipping, maybe 1/2 to 2/3 turn. The next change was in the spring and that filter was on hard. It was alarming how much effort it took with the toothy filter wrench to back it off.
Any advice on things to consider when changing to prevent a locked-on filter? I don't think I can control the outside temps. Maybe can run the car longer and will definitely keep it less tight.
Much appreciated.
CVLW
Yep mus be real slow days here at BITOG

What’s next; when to replace air filter? 😍🤣🤣
 
I only buy oil filters that have a rough coating like the Fram Ultra or the Motomaster OE plus which is a Champ XL with the coating. Then I give it the righty tighty with all the torque my calibrated left hand can produce. I ignore the amount of rotation. While lying on my left side I use my left hand to handle the filter. It works for me and a I still use a filter wrench get the filter moving at change time.
No more ultra or endurance 💩💩💩 for me since downsizing and they’re bankrupt. If I need grip coating it’s a CQ EP or old/er Pure 1
 
No more ultra or endurance 💩💩💩 for me since downsizing and they’re bankrupt. If I need grip coating it’s a CQ EP or old/er Pure 1
I choose the filter I want and if it has a grip coating so much the better. But I could see the grip coating interfering with a cap wrench.

I could spray on pickup bed liner on the filter as a grip coating?
 
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