Oil Filter Tightening vs Outside Temp vs Engine Temp

Joined
Aug 2, 2019
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224
Location
South Central MN
Howdy BITOG crew.
I am soon to change the oil on my 2013 Mazda 6. Now that it is cold where I am, it sprung a question... How tight should the filter go on depending on the temps of everything?
Last year, I did the wife's car (2015 Mazda 5) in the cold of winter. I ran the car only to get it on the rino ramps, so not hot. Then did the change. The filter went on as usual... spin till connect, then tighten as far as my filmy hand can do it before slipping, maybe 1/2 to 2/3 turn. The next change was in the spring and that filter was on hard. It was alarming how much effort it took with the toothy filter wrench to back it off.
Any advice on things to consider when changing to prevent a locked-on filter? I don't think I can control the outside temps. Maybe can run the car longer and will definitely keep it less tight.
Much appreciated.
CVLW
 
If experience is lacking, I would suggest looking up the filter torque spec in the service manual and using a filter cap socket and a torque wrench. Then you can remove it with your same 'toothy filter wrench' the next time and see how difficult it is to remove. Maybe it'll help you calibrate your hand tightness and see what's normal/expected.
 
I used to always torque the oil filter to 100 inch pounds, but have since moved onto torquing it by feel.

I use a standard size 8 inch long ratchet with a cup wrench. You don't want a ratchet too long and you don't want a heavily padded handle either. The padded handles are too comfy and will cause to apply too much torque.
 
I've often lamented about the gorilla that tightens my oil filter and drain plug on. But I've rarely had an oil filter loosen (it can and did happen to me) but have had some issue getting them off.

I've never really paid attention to this but theoretically, a warm engine will be easier to remove the filter from than a cold engine. Assuming the oil filter gasket is rubber, it will shrink when warm and expand when cold (opposite of normal), so it should be easier to break loose when warm than cold. I'd try that before changing your method of hand tightening.
 
Keep the filter in a heated environment until ready to go on - so the gasket isn't rock hard.
It's almost impossible to avoid sticking gaskets and hard to remove filters. Make sure you tighten to what is recommended in print on the side of the can. Try to keep the can clean, maybe put on clean/tight exam gloves so you can get a grip. - Arco
 
Keep the filter in a heated environment until ready to go on - so the gasket isn't rock hard.
It's almost impossible to avoid sticking gaskets and hard to remove filters. Make sure you tighten to what is recommended in print on the side of the can. Try to keep the can clean, maybe put on clean/tight exam gloves so you can get a grip. - Arco
Your comment is timely - on Saturday I changed oil on a 2009 Kia Sedona 3.8. The cartridge filter sits up top, and in combination with the Fumoto valve makes for an easy oil change.

Anyway, I tightened the plastic filter housing by hand, then remembered I'm trying to make myself use disposable gloves when working on cars.

I went back with my gloved hands and, with the better grip afforded by the glove, was able to tighten the housing quite a bit more.

Lesson learned.
 
Wear gloves and strip them just before putting the filter on so you have a clean hand. Yeah I know that'll give you even more torque. If the filter's in a bad spot there are cool tools that'll give you more leverage. But I'd rather have it confidently on there.
 
Lube gasket, keep outside of filter clean and tighten as tight as you can get it with hands.

If you are "The Rock" then maybe not quite as tight as your hands can get it

If over 75 (age) maybe tighten a little extra with a wrench. Just a little.
I have seen this question asked countless times on various forums and this is the best response I have ever seen.
 
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