oil filter "can" construction?
- Thread starter kcfx4
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Aren't all in your list except the M1 made by the same company? It would be necessary to measure the can wall thickness. Some seem more flexible because of their size, and the kind of flutes on the end. I find the MC, Mopar,P1, etc have strong cans by the squeeze test. All are plenty strong for a non race car. The Mopar emphasizes "adhesive filled double lock seam" on their box. I would rather they talk about the filter media.
I think both the MC and Mopar have the nicest paint jobs around, too nice for a filter really, especially the Mopar is a good looking filter, black with silver, haha.
I think both the MC and Mopar have the nicest paint jobs around, too nice for a filter really, especially the Mopar is a good looking filter, black with silver, haha.
daman and i talked about that, he said he might....but he did compare a blue P1 and and a yellow P1, much to my suprise the blue was slightly thinner, i do run yellow P1 on my boat, but the last one i had on car, i was worried it wouldnt take much to puncture it.......
JTK
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I bet you'd find variances in thickness batch to batch of the same brand, same filter. You'd also have to grind all the paint off to be accurate.
Are the P1 cans thinner than the others listed in the the original post, probably. That said, in ~40 yrs. of DIY OC, never had a filter can deform in PC use.
So, if using and paying more for a thicker can make you feel better, so be it. Judging for the popularity of P1 and Classic and Purolator variants like PZ, QS, Proline, Promotive and Advance Auto Total Grip here, wouldn't appear to be a major issue here.
So as far as can thickness compared to the othere, are you crazy, probable not. Are you crazy for not using a P1 based on can thickness, based on results reported here, that's another matter. Right now one can buy 3-4 P1's for what an M1 or BDP cost. Great value.
And based on r_r's testing here, P1 and Classic, have excellent filtration and flow.
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and i know ppl say Bosch D+ is a rebaded P1,
You need to do a search and more reading. It's been explained here numerous times, recently even, they are NOT the same. Many posts on it, including store display pics, showing they are not the same. Just the latest thread.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2102811/
So, if using and paying more for a thicker can make you feel better, so be it. Judging for the popularity of P1 and Classic and Purolator variants like PZ, QS, Proline, Promotive and Advance Auto Total Grip here, wouldn't appear to be a major issue here.
So as far as can thickness compared to the othere, are you crazy, probable not. Are you crazy for not using a P1 based on can thickness, based on results reported here, that's another matter. Right now one can buy 3-4 P1's for what an M1 or BDP cost. Great value.
And based on r_r's testing here, P1 and Classic, have excellent filtration and flow.
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and i know ppl say Bosch D+ is a rebaded P1,
You need to do a search and more reading. It's been explained here numerous times, recently even, they are NOT the same. Many posts on it, including store display pics, showing they are not the same. Just the latest thread.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/posts/2102811/
I went out and measured the only filter I have cut open, a Toyota 90915-10003 from Japan. The thickness is 1/2mm or just under .020".
I went to the Wix site and looked up two filters, both said .020" can thickness. The Mopar box on a MO-090 ays the seam is adhesive filled and withstands 300psi. Nothing about the can, but I assume the seam is the weak point if they fill it with adhesive. 300 psi is enough I would think, since the engine has a relief valve.
Those are facts I know, but Purolator I know nothing. The paint on the can adds thickness but very little for these discussions, grinding it off would be less accurate. Maybe using acetone would be OK, maybe I will try that except I have no acetone handy. It made be hard to measure probably.0002" or so. Sheet rolled steel is made pretty darn accurate. This is what I know. It appears .020" is a common thickness.
I went to the Wix site and looked up two filters, both said .020" can thickness. The Mopar box on a MO-090 ays the seam is adhesive filled and withstands 300psi. Nothing about the can, but I assume the seam is the weak point if they fill it with adhesive. 300 psi is enough I would think, since the engine has a relief valve.
Those are facts I know, but Purolator I know nothing. The paint on the can adds thickness but very little for these discussions, grinding it off would be less accurate. Maybe using acetone would be OK, maybe I will try that except I have no acetone handy. It made be hard to measure probably.0002" or so. Sheet rolled steel is made pretty darn accurate. This is what I know. It appears .020" is a common thickness.
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
The last P1 spin on i bought felt not much more than a pop can, and i know ppl say Bosch D+ is a rebaded P1,
The Bosch Distance Plus is NOT a re-badged PureOne. I has been pointed out many times what the differences are, and can & base plate thickness is one difference.
The last P1 spin on i bought felt not much more than a pop can, and i know ppl say Bosch D+ is a rebaded P1,
The Bosch Distance Plus is NOT a re-badged PureOne. I has been pointed out many times what the differences are, and can & base plate thickness is one difference.
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Those are facts I know, but Purolator I know nothing. The paint on the can adds thickness but very little for these discussions, grinding it off would be less accurate. Maybe using acetone would be OK, maybe I will try that except I have no acetone handy.
Use some carb cleaner ... it will dissolve the yellow paint. Only need to clean off a small area to do the can measurement.
Those are facts I know, but Purolator I know nothing. The paint on the can adds thickness but very little for these discussions, grinding it off would be less accurate. Maybe using acetone would be OK, maybe I will try that except I have no acetone handy.
Use some carb cleaner ... it will dissolve the yellow paint. Only need to clean off a small area to do the can measurement.
Originally Posted By: kcfx4
Like i said, i didnt think so!! but ive read threads saying BD+ is a P1, i DIDNT think so
Well, you're reading threads that or bogus then. Did you read the link that sayjac put up a few posts above?
The Bosch Distance Plus is not a re-badged PureOne. Period.
Now if you are talking about the REGULAR Bosch instead of the DISTANCE PLUS, then yeah, it's closer to the PureOne than the DISTANCE PLUS filter is.
Words are key in this discussion.
Like i said, i didnt think so!! but ive read threads saying BD+ is a P1, i DIDNT think so
Well, you're reading threads that or bogus then. Did you read the link that sayjac put up a few posts above?
Now if you are talking about the REGULAR Bosch instead of the DISTANCE PLUS, then yeah, it's closer to the PureOne than the DISTANCE PLUS filter is.
Words are key in this discussion.
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BD+ is all i buy, bosch wise, few days back, a guy posted an aap display making one think they were at least related
Only if "one" can't read the display. That guy would be me. "Related" yes, as in, both made by Purolator. Same, no, not unless "one" is illiterate.
"Related," does not mean, "same."
BD+ is all i buy, bosch wise, few days back, a guy posted an aap display making one think they were at least related
"Related," does not mean, "same."
Why bother reporting/repeating bogus information, even bringing it up, if you know it's false?
Yeah, but I don't have any P1's now, and have a rather good stock of the other ones I use, and not changing oil for awhile. The last time I took some filters to the recycling, there was a barrel of the used filters filled to the top. Most of them were Fram extra guards it looked like. Maybe I could swipe a P1 or two out of the barrel next time. If I get caught and arrested, I am suing BITOG though.
It is pretty easy to measure the can, if one has a standard micrometer, just use a ball bearing or small rod on the inside of can, and subtract the diameter of one of those from the total.
It seems a rather non urgent necessity to know the can thicknesses anyway, if the burst strengths are 300 psi. Maybe for rock protection?
It is pretty easy to measure the can, if one has a standard micrometer, just use a ball bearing or small rod on the inside of can, and subtract the diameter of one of those from the total.
It seems a rather non urgent necessity to know the can thicknesses anyway, if the burst strengths are 300 psi. Maybe for rock protection?
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...It seems a rather non urgent necessity to know the can thicknesses anyway....
Bingo.. And if you go off roading frequently in a vehicle where the filter sits low, then think about it if you must. Average pc, a non issue, IMO.
fwiw, the new Grand Cherokee uses a cartridge style filter that sits on top of the engine.
...It seems a rather non urgent necessity to know the can thicknesses anyway....
Bingo.. And if you go off roading frequently in a vehicle where the filter sits low, then think about it if you must. Average pc, a non issue, IMO.
fwiw, the new Grand Cherokee uses a cartridge style filter that sits on top of the engine.
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Aren't all in your list except the M1 made by the same company?
Really the mfg of the filter has no bearing on filter construction unless all of the filters you want to compare are the exact same filter just with different paint or labels. Filter mfg's make the filters to the spec's, and using the parts called for, by the company that will sell them under their label. Sometimes you can find the exact same filter under different label names though. Here is a good example. A Wix 51034 and a Napa Gold 1034 are the same filter with different cosmetics.
Take Champion Labs. Despite Champion Lab's making multiple filters for many different filter companies they are not all the same exact filter across the board for specific applications. Different standards are called for by the company hiring CL to make them for them. They may share a similar part like E-Core technology or they can be 100% different top to bottom. All depends on what the company who will sell the filter spec's.
For instance, CL makes both the MOPAR filters and the Royal Purple filters. For my truck the filters are RP 20-820 and MOPAR MO899. About the only thing they share is the company that made them and the application they fit. Different media, ADBV, and the can on the RP is thicker. IF you hold an RP 20-820 in one hand and a MOPAR MO899 in the other you will see how much heavier and beefier the RP filter is.
So who makes the filter is not a 100% sure sign the filters are the same. Again, it has to be a case like Wix/Napa Gold where the same exact filter is sold under different labels.
Aren't all in your list except the M1 made by the same company?
Really the mfg of the filter has no bearing on filter construction unless all of the filters you want to compare are the exact same filter just with different paint or labels. Filter mfg's make the filters to the spec's, and using the parts called for, by the company that will sell them under their label. Sometimes you can find the exact same filter under different label names though. Here is a good example. A Wix 51034 and a Napa Gold 1034 are the same filter with different cosmetics.
Take Champion Labs. Despite Champion Lab's making multiple filters for many different filter companies they are not all the same exact filter across the board for specific applications. Different standards are called for by the company hiring CL to make them for them. They may share a similar part like E-Core technology or they can be 100% different top to bottom. All depends on what the company who will sell the filter spec's.
For instance, CL makes both the MOPAR filters and the Royal Purple filters. For my truck the filters are RP 20-820 and MOPAR MO899. About the only thing they share is the company that made them and the application they fit. Different media, ADBV, and the can on the RP is thicker. IF you hold an RP 20-820 in one hand and a MOPAR MO899 in the other you will see how much heavier and beefier the RP filter is.
So who makes the filter is not a 100% sure sign the filters are the same. Again, it has to be a case like Wix/Napa Gold where the same exact filter is sold under different labels.
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