oil filter "can" construction?

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Originally Posted By: kcfx4
daman and i talked about that, he said he might....but he did compare a blue P1 and and a yellow P1, much to my suprise the blue was slightly thinner, i do run yellow P1 on my boat, but the last one i had on car, i was worried it wouldnt take much to puncture it.......

Yep i've been working on it but with Christmas shopping/holidays it's been slow going,still working on it but here is a comparison of the two Purolators new and old style and there FAR from a pop can,very sturdy filters...


old style...

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new style...

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as you can see the new yellow P1's are a thicker walled can,no concern here..i'll be doing more measurements soon stay tuned...
 
Nice caliper Dan. We used to use Mitutoyos at the lab where I worked. Had them calibrated anually.

Anyway, ya, the seam not the can is the part that lets go usually in a freak overpressure situation. But any filter will blow up then. The burst rating on the PureOnes is good and plenty. If you are running off-road in the rocks and your filter is where it might get puntured, you need a better designed truck. All that stuff should be above the skid pans.
 
Yea that's mostly what we use at the shop seem to hold cal the longest,just had this one done last year with hardly any use since then, it wasn't far off they said.

I run the longer GM PF52 in the P1 and on my GA it hangs slightly lower and even with the sub frame never had any issues and i've seen stone chips in the can many times...lol
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Why bother reporting/repeating bogus information, even bringing it up, if you know it's false?
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I dont know for sure, thats why i asked
 
The P1 is thinner than Wix (.020" according to Wix), and Toyota Japan, that I measured at .020"(rounded off.) I don't think it is significant, but % wise it is quite a bit thinner. I measured a pop can and it is 4 mils, .004". On a large filter it is easier to squeeze it in by hand than a smaller, so it feels flimsier.

The Mopar is now made by Purolator, they seem to think using adhesive in the can seam is important to burst strength. Maybe the Bosch does that as well.

As for filter weight, the Mopar MO-090 weighs 13 oz. It feels bottom heavy so the baseplate and bypass valve must be pretty good amount of that weight. Haven't weighed any other oil filters, and I hope no one sees me doing it here and getting a good laugh.
 
Wow, kcfx4, you got flamed again and again for no good reason, IMO.
People seem kind of crabby today. Cheer up, Y'all it's Christmas.
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Originally Posted By: river_rat
Wow, kcfx4, you got flamed again and again for no good reason, IMO.
People seem kind of crabby today. Cheer up, Y'all it's Christmas.
happy2.gif


Yea all the attacks lately are getting outa hand no need,you don't like what someone posts or a product they use don't post how hard is that.

Back OT goodtimes you saying the P1 is 020" thinner then that wix? hard to believe a wix is that thick.
 
I said the Wix is .020" thick, by their website, and I measured about the same on the Japan made Toyota can. My measuring tool is very accurate, as is my use of it. Your pics show P1 from about .015"-.018". So the .015 is about 25% thinner than the Wix or Toyota Japan .020. Burst strength would also depend on the kind of steel used I suspect.

IMHO People should be able to say what they want, and what they have found. If someone doesn't read what others say, or only what they want to hear, that is another thing. I bet there are quite a few people afraid to post some thought for fear of criticism. Personally, if I have criticized anyone in my few days here, my apologies. It is sort of like email, once the words are out there, they are out there for good, right or wrong.
 
Quote:
If someone doesn't read what others say, or only what they want to hear, that is another thing.
And that's exactly what occurred several times in this thread and others. If "no reason" includes repeating information that has been shown false several times, then I might have a different definition of no reason. ZeeO and myself explained, and backed up the explanation with pics, and several links at least three times to the same poster, that BDP was not the same as P1. If one goes back and does the research/reading, those facts would be difficult to dispute.

To verify, this thread gave IMO, a fairly thorough, in depth explanation of the differences. Yet, it was repeated again in this thread, and again explained that it was not true. And then the same, false information was repeated again here. Only this time the implication was that the AAP display, which clearly shows the differences, showed they were somehow the "same."

And, perhaps some folks commenting on attacks, might just need to check themselves and some recent pcmo comments.

So, rather than saying 'no reason', for the comments by two posters with a similar response, to the misinformation again being implied in this thread, I'd say it's more aptly gt's "that is another thing."

Merry Christmas.
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Originally Posted By: sayjac
ZeeO and myself explained, and backed up the explanation with pics, and several links at least three times to the same poster, that BDP was not the same as P1. If one goes back and does the research/reading, those facts would be difficult to dispute.


The facts and proof can be shown over and over by many people, and still some people will gravitate and only believe the falsehoods of the subject matter. Oh well ... people can believe what they want.
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Happy Holidays !!!
 
I am new to the bitog, but not new to filters, 49 years of changing my own oil on my own cars is coming up.

The Bosch Premium was their best filter, and about the same price and efficiency rating as the PureOne. Not the previously made CL Bosch. I used them sometimes, they were about $5-6, 99.9% eff. right on the box. Along comes the D+, at more than double the price, almost triple. On that alone, it is hard to imagine that it is still the same filter as the previous Premium. Upgrades, even small ones, aren't linear in cost, and if one wants those, one has to pay the $15. Bosch/Purolator don't seem like the kind that would scam the public, painting P1's a different color and selling them as D+'s. They seem to make honest products, witnessed by their large market share.

I guess the can of worms is pryed open again.
 
IMO and i really do think this is the case but no data to back it up is the D+'s meadia is the same exact as the P1's BUT thicker.

again my opinion,hey Rob did you ever study the two medias under a microscope and if so could you tell one was denser etc then the other?
 
Bosch says the BDP uses "Advanced Synthetic Fiber Media" . They make no such claim for for Bosch Premium(BP), neither does the P1 claim syn fiber media. From the standpoint of the media that would make BDP analogous to M1.

The BDP clearly has a thicker can/base than P1/BP and claim 2x burst resistance. Also, a 29g holding capacity, as opposed to p1's 13g rating. The only significant spec that is published the same is efficiency of 99.9%.

Of course, all that information is posted on the AAP display information that has been linked on several threads. Also on the Bosch website. Unless one doesn't believe Bosch on all counts, ie., false advertising, then the BDP cannot be the same as P1 or BP. I'll believe Bosch. Now, the P1 and the Bosch Premium the same, based on r_r's testing and general observations it's confirmed enough to be considered true.

Now, as to whether the BDP is worth ~$13.50 is up to the consumer. Clearly to get a value even close to a P1, one would have to run them for extended OCI's.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Now, as to whether the BDP is worth ~$13.50 is up to the consumer. Clearly to get a value even close to a P1, one would have to run them for extended OCI's.

I will run one first full length OC during engine break-in considering all the [censored] in the factory filter on my truck. But they are pricey.

I want to post pictures of my factory break-in filter cut open, but some dirt bag stole my good digital camera. I will when I get a new camera.
 
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