my 97 blazer has an oil cooler and the lines are good but the oil filter adapter is leaking. i can't get the 2 t35 torx screws out to replace the seals. any suggestions?
oil filter adapter leaks bad
- Thread starter AndyW
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Are they stripped out or what is going on with the screws?
You may need to heat the head of the bolt not the adapter slightly with a propane torch (make sure its clean of oil) because they probably used Loctite red on the threads of these bolts.
If you didn't round them out you can try an hand impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer.
If the bolt heads are buggered take it to a pro.
If you didn't round them out you can try an hand impact driver, the kind you hit with a hammer.
If the bolt heads are buggered take it to a pro.
thanks for your replies. the screws are black (hardened) but i have managed to booger up one of them up a little bit already. i have tried a hand impact driver but have limited space to get a good swing on it. i thought about grinding the heads off and just buy new screws but i'm worried i won't be able to get the remaining screw out of the engine block. it's very frustrating that such a simple repair has caused me so much grief!
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i thought about grinding the heads off and just buy new screws but i'm worried i won't be able to get the remaining screw out of the engine block
If you do that heat around the remaining bolt threads first before going at what's left of it with vise grips.
Something like this could turn into a big job real quick.
i thought about grinding the heads off and just buy new screws but i'm worried i won't be able to get the remaining screw out of the engine block
If you do that heat around the remaining bolt threads first before going at what's left of it with vise grips.
Something like this could turn into a big job real quick.
yes, this is my fear. if i break the remaining bolt off in the block then i'm screwed. i've tried to locate a t35 torx impact socket EVERYWHERE to no avail. any idea where the dealer mechanics get theirs? all i have is a small bit not an actual impact socket.
T35? I never saw one only T30 and T40 nothing in between.
Most dealership mechanics get their tools from one of tool trucks but Sears has a Lisle set that is good quality.
Check online to see if a store near you has it in stock, the ones here have them in stock.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946345000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5
Edit: This maybe a T30 or T40 check your socket size.
Most dealership mechanics get their tools from one of tool trucks but Sears has a Lisle set that is good quality.
Check online to see if a store near you has it in stock, the ones here have them in stock.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00946345000P?prdNo=5&blockNo=5&blockType=G5
Edit: This maybe a T30 or T40 check your socket size.
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You can try hammering in a suitable 6 point allen socket, then try unscrewing it. Sometimes grinding the rounded end off of the torx allow deeper seating and bite - always a good idea to try this.
And hammer the bit in , first.
They may have Locktite on the threads. Big heat can help.
If it is messed up already, you have nothing to lose.
I sympathize with simple things turning into heck.
Take a step back - pretty much all things are fixable.
And hammer the bit in , first.
They may have Locktite on the threads. Big heat can help.
If it is messed up already, you have nothing to lose.
I sympathize with simple things turning into heck.
Take a step back - pretty much all things are fixable.
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