2015 Dodge Grand Caravan oil cooler replacement questions

[zrxkawboy]

While waiting for my new cooler to arrive, I removed the old cooler and mopped up the valley. I have a couple questions...

1. Since the valley was full of oil, the knock sensors and connectors were soaked. I never hear of anyone replacing them, so I'm guessing the oil must not hurt anything. True?

2. The repair manual I looked at showed 6 fasteners holding down the cooler. It called 2 of them screws and 4 of them bolts, and showed a different torque spec for screws vs bolts. My cooler was attached with 5 fasteners, and all felt about the same when breaking them loose. Can someone help me out with the correct torque?

Thanks!

 

[D60]

My attempt to simplify for my brain to help me remember, which means I'm guaranteed to forget: if it threads into metal, 108 in lbs. If it threads into plastic (upper intake), 89 inch lbs

I could be wrong so if you find other info, go with that

 

[HemiBenny]

1. I’ve done a lot of these on Jeeps and Dodge/Chrysler minivans, never had an issue with them after cleaning out the valley. You can clean the connectors with something like CRC electronic cleaner.

2. 106 in/lbs

Fasteners and their Torque sequence are highlighted in black.

 

[D60]

Also IIRC Dorman calls out 25 ft lbs for both sensors, but the thread diameters are drastically different.

The smaller one seems like it's going to split the aluminum (IMO), and I'm not convinced I agree with torque specs on NPT at all. Furthermore, I use the white thread sealant. I don't see a reason for these to be stupid tight and just use my judgment as I have all my life with tapered threads (or TREs and castleated nuts). YMMV

 

[D60]

^I misspoke -- Dorman calls out 15 which seems a bit high to me for the smaller one