oil consumption stopped due to overfill, safe?

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
440Magnum, I don't have plug tubes. Plugs are located on the outside. There was never any oil leak from the valve-cover gasket and the outsides of the plugs were always completely dry. This was also no one-time observation. So, your speculation is wrong.


I would believe that... if there were an alternative explanation. Overkill's postulate that enough oil drizzles down the valve, across the top of the combustion chamber, and to the spark plug *might* explain it, but I really don't think much liquid would wick up through the threads of a fully seated spark plug. If I were a mythbuster, I'd give it no more than 'plausible' but it woudl require such a huge leak that I think the plug tips themselves would be gakked up too. And there'd be a huge blue puff on startup.

Regardless, the OP's engine is different, and his wet plugs clearly DO come from oil accumulating inside the spark plug tubes.

 

[Gokhan]

Of course, I also saw a lot of oil-ash deposits on the plugs before I replaced the valve-stem oil seals. Now, I hardly see any.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan

They call a complete engine overhaul a "fix"?!!!

I know right? LOL!! Tear it down and new rings with a hone job. It isn't quite a complete overhaul but it is pretty bloody close!

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
I doubt the OP wants to do a complete engine overhaul. I would recommend him to switch to Mobil 1 0W-40 SN first and see how much it helps with his consumption. If this doesn't reduce his consumption to a satisfactory level, he can later do some compression test and decide if it would help to replace the valve-stem oil seals and if he is willing to undertake the task.

And, yes, Toyota doesn't build these engines as well as it did in the 1980s.

My concern is that if he tears into it and does the valve stem seals and the actual problem is the well documented ring sticking issue that he's then going to have to tear into it yet AGAIN, but even further (if he wants to keep the car) to put new rings in it

I do think a leak-down test is in order though once he does the VCG.

 

[fpracha]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Of course, I also saw a lot of oil-ash deposits on the plugs before I replaced the valve-stem oil seals. Now, I hardly see any.
Hello Gokhan, Congrats again, so now with the TGMO 0W-20 you have 100% clean plugs ?
Oh... are you using the 0W-20 or the 0W-40 SN M1 in this 1985 Corolla ... ???

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: fpracha
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Of course, I also saw a lot of oil-ash deposits on the plugs before I replaced the valve-stem oil seals. Now, I hardly see any.

Hello Gokhan, Congrats again, so now with the TGMO 0W-20 you have 100% clean plugs ?
Oh... are you using the 0W-20 or the 0W-40 SN M1 in this 1985 Corolla ... ???

I have had 100%-clean plugs regardless of what oil I've used since I replaced my valve-stem oil seals.

Wonders of valve-stem oil seal replacement

TGMO 0W-20 SN ran well but it could have been a little too thin for this engine -- Cr and Pb was a little high but that could also have been due to coolant seep that has now been fixed. M1 0W-40 SN -- a light xW-40 -- which I filled recently, is running great so far. Fuel economy is good, and the engine is smooth and quiet. The verdict will be after the UOA, which won't be until a year.

 

[fpracha]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan

TGMO 0W-20 SN ran well but it could have been a little too thin for this engine -- Cr and Pb was a little high but that could also have been due to coolant seep that has now been fixed. M1 0W-40 SN -- a light xW-40 -- which I filled recently, is running great so far. Fuel economy is good, and the engine is smooth and quiet. The verdict will be after the UOA, which won't be until a year.

very good ... this winter run Fuel Economy using the 0W-40 will give us an accurate verdict about smooth and quiet engine in about 2-3 months time !

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: Luis_G
I am going to ahead and remove the excess oil.


i hope you didn't. i guess you didn't find in your searches that one way toyota found a way to deal with oil consumption in the 1ZZ-FE engine was by increasing sump size. they did that by revising a dipstick with higher full/empty reading.

i posted about it many times in the past and you should be able to search for the detailed info.

BTW, it's comical how much misinformation is posted in this thread. one guy with a different toyota engine thinks he knows it all while he knows zero about the 1ZZ-FE engine.

in reality, it's a common knowledge that 1ZZ-FE suffers from hot piston temps resulting in oil coking in ring-lands.

if it's caught early, the problem could be reversed by oil flushes or pistons soaks. if neglected, the oil rings are worn away and the engine has to be rebuilt with revised pistons and reringed.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: fpracha
this winter run Fuel Economy using the 0W-40 will give us an accurate verdict about smooth and quiet engine in about 2-3 months time !

I actually expect better fuel economy in the LA winter because cooler air should result in a leaner-running carburetor.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
in reality, it's a common knowledge that 1ZZ-FE suffers from hot piston temps resulting in oil coking in ring-lands.

if it's caught early, the problem could be reversed by oil flushes or pistons soaks. if neglected, the oil rings are worn away and the engine has to be rebuilt with revised pistons and reringed.

This was posted on this thread before. The "fix," which is engine rebuilding, is way beyond what would normally be called a fix as I mentioned.

Unless he knows how to fix engines, it's too expensive to have it repaired (valve-stem oil seals) or rebuilt (pistons). He can run a thicker synthetic, which can clean the ring area (if they are dirty) and can also decrease the consumption through the valve guides and by rings (whichever is significant). So, it's a win - win situation.

If he doesn't want to invest in synthetic, he can simply run conventional 15W-40 or 20W-50 to control consumption.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
He can run a thicker synthetic, which can clean the ring area (if they are dirty) and can also decrease the consumption through the valve guides and by rings (whichever is significant). So, it's a win - win situation.


no, if the rings are worn away (most likely by now) you solution is useless.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
He can run a thicker synthetic, which can clean the ring area (if they are dirty) and can also decrease the consumption through the valve guides and by rings (whichever is significant). So, it's a win - win situation.

no, if the rings are worn away (most likely by now) you solution is useless.

How do you come up with this? Thicker oil is transported slower by the rings; therefore, it will be consumed less. It will also decrease further wear.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan

How do you come up with this? Thicker oil is transported slower by the rings; therefore, it will be consumed less. It will also decrease further wear.


read my post please.
first, cleaning rings when they are worn out and lost tension does nothing.
second, thicker oil = thicker oil film on cylinders, hence more pumped into combustion chambers, defeating the purpose. may work with seals, but it's not the case here.
third, when rings are worn out, decreasing further wear is kinda useless, isn't it?
please look things up before posting.

 

[BrocLuno]

Yeah, but cleaning the rings when they are carbon gummed into the lands does wonders

He changed oil brands and over filled. He added to the amount of splash oil being thrown around because windage went up. The cylinder walls were wetter and the new oil had better detergents. Free'd the rings

If it was me, I'd pull the plugs about 100 miles before my next oil change and throw a good dose of Break-Free (gun barrel carbon solvent) into each cylinder. Let sit overnight. fire it up the next day and warm up and change oil. I'll bet it would kill the oil consumption completely

 

[crazyoildude]

yeah... Dump some additives in that are not made for engines that does wonders for the cats

 

[BrocLuno]

Not going to run it for longer then it takes to warm up for the change. Cats will never see 99.999% of the solvent ...

The whole point of doing this is to soften the carbon sludge in the ring lands over night. And then have the combustion gas pressure force all that into the crankcase to be taken out with the oil change. It is not to "burn" it and send it down the tail pipe... This is a very thin solvent. It will be forced past the rings very quickly

 

[meborder]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
yeah... Dump some additives in that are not made for engines that does wonders for the cats


So is all of the oil going out the tailpipe.

What's your point?


Do nothing and the cats will likely fail over time. Do this and they might not ... I'd take that gamble.

 

[friendly_jacek]

Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
Yeah, but cleaning the rings when they are carbon gummed into the lands does wonders

not if the oil rings are worn out with no tension. see this:
saturn ring cleaning

99 corolla with a gazzilion of miles (i presume) probably belongs to that category.