oil consumption problem in a 2000 honda prelude type SH

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Sounds like you didn't follow Honda's recommendation to leave the factory fill oil in for at least 5000 miles. It's very high in moly and silicon and is necessary for proper break-in of the Honda cylinders and rings.

Since you mentioned that your other car has 4000 miles on it and 3000 miles on the oil, I'm assuming that you did the same thing with your Honda. Too bad there's no way to fix it now without tearing down the engine.
 
quote:

Originally posted by cvl:
Sounds like you didn't follow Honda's recommendation to leave the factory fill oil in for at least 5000 miles. It's very high in moly and silicon and is necessary for proper break-in of the Honda cylinders and rings.

Since you mentioned that your other car has 4000 miles on it and 3000 miles on the oil, I'm assuming that you did the same thing with your Honda. Too bad there's no way to fix it now without tearing down the engine.


Oh come one now. I've personally turned wrenches on two 1.8L DOHC VTEC motors (complete rebuild with factory rings etc.) and the oil was changed at 200 miles, then 500 miles, then again at about 1500 miles. Both of those motors run like a freakin raped ape and still burn around 1 quart every 1500 mils now with about 35K on the odometer. Compression is always the same from day one. It's all about the high rpms that Honda VTEC engines turn. I mean, just regular driving and shifting puts you over 5,000 rpm practically through every gear. They turn darn near 4,000 rpms at 75 mph on the highway.
 
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Originally posted by Drew99GT:
People call Schaffer oil "Bobzoil" because Bob, aka Bobistheoilguy, is a major distributor of Schaffer oil. It's darn good stuff. Also, to offset the cost of oil in your car, run 1000 miles longer, or even more, between oil changes, especially with mobil 1. Frequent top offs will restore additives etc.

Thanks, now I know what Bob's oil is
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Yes, I usually keep the M1 a little longer, around 7-8k miles due to the high consumption, sometimes I replace the oil filter in between changes too.

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H22a's burn oil, period. The only question is how much..
Personally when I was using Mobil 1 5w30 TriSynth the engine consumed 2L per 5000 km or 2quarts/3,000 miles. After I switched to M1 0w40 SuperSyn my consumption was cut in half to 2 quarts/6,000 miles.

Yeah... That is too bad that our engines are like old oil burners
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I suggest you TRY either the Delvac 1 or Shell Rotella T 5W40 Synthetic (you can buy the Shell at Wal*Mart). These are "fleet" oils that are suitable for both diesel and gasonlne engines.

I saw Delvac 1 at autozone, but it is only available in 15w50 I believe, this viscosity might be too thick for the engine since the engine is designed to use 5w30 or 10w30. I haven't seen Shell rotella before but I will go to walmart someday to pick some up at the next oil change to see if there will be any differences in consumption.

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What grade of M1 do you use?I don't thik the Auto-Rx will be of any help if this is a design issue -only thicker oil will.

I use the 5w30 grade. I am not sure if auto-rx will help also, because M1 is supposely a high quality synthetic oil, so even if it burns, it should burn clean without residues. Am I correct on this?

quote:

Since you mentioned that your other car has 4000 miles on it and 3000 miles on the oil, I'm assuming that you did the same thing with your Honda. Too bad there's no way to fix it now without tearing down the engine.

I don't have a car with only 4000miles on it, I was quoting a post from JohnBrowning... sorry for the confusion
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Originally posted by james168:
.... engine is designed to use 5w30 or 10w30. ...I use the 5w30 grade. ....

I would suggest sticking with the 10W30 weight then. FWIW, In my experience with my truck(which consumes oil), Castrol burns off less than other oils of the same weight.
 
I have a 2000 Odyssey w a 3.5VTEC that has never burned a drop, but I don't know about your type of engine.

In my experience quite a few OHC engines that burn too much oil are victims of malfunctioning pcv valves.

I would really check out the PCV system on your engine. I don't have a Prelude, so I'm only guessing that you have a PCV valve.

And don't use a FRAM replacement. Go to Honda even if it costs 10x as much. I'm guessing change back from your $20 if you need a new PCV valve.
 
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In my experience quite a few OHC engines that burn too much oil are victims of malfunctioning pcv valves.

This holds true for some pushrod engines too. The LS1 and LS6 engines for instance. Many guys reported that when they switched to GM's upgraded PCV valve, their oil consumption was cut in half or sometimes eliminated!

[ September 22, 2003, 11:05 AM: Message edited by: Patman ]
 
I have a '01 prelude SH w/ 15K mi, buddy has a '00 SH w/ about 35K mi. I ran Valvoline 5w30 for the first 13K mi, then switched to D1 for one change since that was all I had on hand and was moving to AZ and needed the group IV/V syn for the heat (will go w/ M1 10w30 next). Buddy ran dealer fill (5w30 dino) for 30K+ mi, recently switched to M1 10w30. With 5w30 dino, both of us were burning about 1 qt every 3K mi. Both D1 and M1 10w30 virtually stopped consumption in our vehicles (< 1/2 qt per 3K mi). When the vehicle was new, I was initially shocked at how much oil it was burning, but I've come to the conclusion this engine just burns more oil by design, maybe because it's a performance engine?

[ September 22, 2003, 02:32 PM: Message edited by: James Chow ]
 
Not making sense? Well, here is some thoughts for you:

The VTEC system on my car is made to not function until the car is warmed up.

Catalytic converters do not "take care of" oil smoke.

Catalytic converters will burn off oil from the catalyst due to a high operating temperature. Therefore, even a quart of oil every 1000 miles will have no effect on it (running rich can melt it down, however!)

If oil thickens a grade during use, wouldn't it be even worse to use a higher grade than specified?

From what I understand, the 1997 Lumina has NONE of the features listed in my previous post.

I've seen my spark plugs and crown of my pistons. No problem with oil deposits whatsoever.

quote:

Originally posted by CJH:
Your reasoning doesn't make sense to me.

If your car is consuming a significant amount of oil, deposits tend to accumulate in your combustion chamber and on your spark plugs. Except for the most extreme cases, the catalytic converter takes care of the smoke, but what effect do you think this has on the catalytic converter? Of course it shortens its life and effectiveness. Using a grade thicker oil resolves these problems, at least to a degree.

If thicker oil caused problems with your Vtec system of engine, then you would have problems as soon as you started it, because the cold oil is WAY more viscous than warm 30W oil is when it is hot.

If you look at the UOAs on here, you will see it is very common for oils to thin or thicken one grade during normal use.

BTW, I have been running XW40 oils in my 1997 Lumina (GM recommends XW30) for the past 20,000 miles and have not seen any kind of an adverse effect, nor would I expect any.


 
Got a couple questions:

Is European 40 weight oil the same exact spec as that sold in the USA?

Is 40 weight oil in Europe used to reduce particulate emissions, something I don't think gets measured in USA?

quote:

Originally posted by Quick_lude:
As for the argument against using a higher grade than what Honda recommends, a 40 weight in this case, what do you think is recommended in Europe and other parts of the world for this engine? Surprise! A 5w/10w-40. So imo it's perfectly safe and probably recommended to use a 40w as long as the climate permits it. Like I said above, M1 0w40 cut my consumption in half and I do drive my car hard, especially during lapping days.

 
Thanks for the response.

I have a 2000 Civic Si with a VTEC, so I am familiar with the VTEC concept. You are correct that it does not work very well on a cold engine.

I have to believe that catalytic converters clean up oil smoke, but I could be wrong. I have seen dozens of posts on this forum and others where people say "where is my oil going? It is not leaking anywhere and there is no smoke..." At one point, my Lumina used a quart of oil in 650 miles and there was no visible smoke from the exhaust. For this reason, I think the catalyst removes it. From what I have read, additives in oil such as phosphorus will poison the catalyst. Now if you are not burning any oil, then the amount of phosphorus reaching the converter is negligable. If you are usnig a lot of oil, it will reduce the effectiveness and life of the catalyst. Make sense?

It would be only worse to use a thicker oil if you accept the premise that thicker oil causes some kind of problem. If you just review postings on here, you will see many many people use thicker oil with no consequences. If you look at Honda forums, you will see a lot of people use Mobil 1 15W50! The same Honda engines sold in Japan call out XXW40 oils.

My point in bringing up the 1997 Lumina is that I had a consumption problem that was almost cured largely due to Rotella 5W40. While it is not a VTEC, it has pistons, rings, etc. and the same consumption principles apply.

Great that there are no deposits on your plugs. Sometimes cars that burn oil end up with deposits on the plugs. It is not unusual.

Using a XW40 in a VTEC is absolutely no problem. You can think what you like. If I have a choice of using 30W and buring 1 qt / 1,000 miles, or using a 40W and burning half of that, I would take the 40W every time. I think most people would.

quote:

Originally posted by S2000driver:
Not making sense? Well, here is some thoughts for you:

The VTEC system on my car is made to not function until the car is warmed up.

Catalytic converters do not "take care of" oil smoke.

Catalytic converters will burn off oil from the catalyst due to a high operating temperature. Therefore, even a quart of oil every 1000 miles will have no effect on it (running rich can melt it down, however!)

If oil thickens a grade during use, wouldn't it be even worse to use a higher grade than specified?

From what I understand, the 1997 Lumina has NONE of the features listed in my previous post.

I've seen my spark plugs and crown of my pistons. No problem with oil deposits whatsoever.

quote:

Originally posted by CJH:
Your reasoning doesn't make sense to me.

If your car is consuming a significant amount of oil, deposits tend to accumulate in your combustion chamber and on your spark plugs. Except for the most extreme cases, the catalytic converter takes care of the smoke, but what effect do you think this has on the catalytic converter? Of course it shortens its life and effectiveness. Using a grade thicker oil resolves these problems, at least to a degree.

If thicker oil caused problems with your Vtec system of engine, then you would have problems as soon as you started it, because the cold oil is WAY more viscous than warm 30W oil is when it is hot.

If you look at the UOAs on here, you will see it is very common for oils to thin or thicken one grade during normal use.

BTW, I have been running XW40 oils in my 1997 Lumina (GM recommends XW30) for the past 20,000 miles and have not seen any kind of an adverse effect, nor would I expect any.



 
quote:

Originally posted by S2000driver:


Is European 40 weight oil the same exact spec as that sold in the USA?



If you mean is it the same viscosity, then yes, all around the world if the oil is labeled as an Xw40 then it must have a viscosity of between 12.5 to 16.3 cst at 100c.
 
Ooops! on the S2000, VTEC will not engage until the car is warmed up by design.

I don't think there is anything in oil these days that can harm the catalytic converter. (The destructive chemical that comes to mind is silicone.)

I think the thicker/thinner oil topic will continue beyond this thread, not worth beating with our varying opinions.
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Without getting into the chemistry, the catalyst converts select invisible gasses to less harmful ones. It lets all smoke (carbon particulates) pass by.

quote:

Originally posted by CJH:
I have a 2000 Civic Si with a VTEC, so I am familiar with the VTEC concept. You are correct that it does not work very well on a cold engine.

 
quote:

Originally posted by S2000driver:
I don't think there is anything in oil these days that can harm the catalytic converter.

Phosphorus can and will decrease catalyst efficiency over time, but only modern vehicles that call for GF-3 will be sensitive to the levels (Personally though, I'd still run a HD oil...so what if the conveter fails at 120,000 miles instead of 150,000??).
 
quote:

Originally posted by S2000driver:
Ooops! on the S2000, VTEC will not engage until the car is warmed up by design.

I don't think there is anything in oil these days that can harm the catalytic converter. (The destructive chemical that comes to mind is silicone.)


[/QB][/QUOTE]

Regarding the VTEC not engaging when cold on the S2000, I wonder if this applies to the Civic Si? I could not find anything to that effect in the manual, so it is hard to say for sure. I avoid revving the engine when cold, but one time I had to to avoid an accident, and the engine made some ugly noises, so that is what I based my statement on that the VTEC does not work well cold...maybe I should have said...the engine does not rev well cold.

Most or all engine oils contain phosphorus which poisons catalytic converters if there is enough exposure...at least some catalytic converter designs.

I thought silicon was like sand, and is undesirable in engine oils? Most people seem to want low silicon readings. In fact, I never saw anyone on here happy to see high silicon readings in a UOA.

Something else I am wondering about...if you are correct that the catalytic converter does not remove exhaust emissions from burned oil, then does a car that burns oil fail an emissions test? If an oil burning car does fail emissions, then replacing the cat would not help it pass, right?
 
Silicone, like the spray lubricant.

The comment on Phosphorous contamination and relation to oil conumption is correct... my bad. What are the current controls on P?

quote:

Originally posted by CJH:


I thought silicon was like sand, and is undesirable in engine oils? Most people seem to want low silicon readings. In fact, I never saw anyone on here happy to see high silicon readings in a UOA.

Something else I am wondering about...if you are correct that the catalytic converter does not remove exhaust emissions from burned oil, then does a car that burns oil fail an emissions test? If an oil burning car does fail emissions, then replacing the cat would not help it pass, right? [/QB][/QUOTE]
 
The only other post of burning oil in a VTEC was posted by a guy who didn't follow the recommended schedule on either engine. Go figure.

The factory fill is special and should be left in for at least 5000 miles to help insure proper seating of the rings.
 
quote:

Originally posted by cvl:
The only other post of burning oil in a VTEC was posted by a guy who didn't follow the recommended schedule on either engine. Go figure.

The factory fill is special and should be left in for at least 5000 miles to help insure proper seating of the rings.


I could refer you to a Honda forum where there are numerous reports of VTECs using oil. It may be due to abuse, ignorance or the nature of the beast.
 
quote:

Originally posted by S2000driver:
What are the current controls on P?

For API Starburst oils, phosphorus is under 1,000 ppm, but I would say "just under" in many or most cases. For the heavy duty, high viscosity or fleet oils, phosphorus is generally well over 1,000 ppm.
 
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