Oil Consumption (need advice)

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I had a bad oil consumption problem in my 95 Toyota 22RE 4x4 even after the ARX treatments. I used Mobil 1 10W30 and it didn't help at all. 1 qt every 1000 miles. Someone here suggested I use Castrol 10W40 High Mileage oil. It cut the use in half at the very least. Is it the High Mileage oil or is it the 40 wt. thats doing the job? If it's the 40 wt. then I wouldn't have to use the High Mileage oil(s) right? The sump holds 4 qts so I tried the 3 qt 10W30, 1 qt 20W50 Mobil 1 and it used about the same. I'd like to try the 15W40 oil but unsure of what the first numbers actually mean. (5W40 vs. 10W40 vs. 15W40). I thought about running some Delvac 1300 15W40 on next change. Any other suggestions? Rando
 
My experience is to go to a 20w-50 like Castrol GTX. The only problem with this is like all dino oils it seems to thin out with time. I would think with 3000 mile changes this would reduce you consumption to 1 quart. The lower number is the weight of the oil when cold. With 20w you get less consumption at start-up as well as when hot.
 
I have a 94 22RE. I use the 10W-30 Mobil mixed with 15W-50. I mixed 1 1/2 quart of the 15W-50 with the 10W-30. It cut my consumption from a quart every 3K to about a quart every 5K miles. I have also considered the Rotella T Synthetic 5w30. The 15W-50 or 20W-50 may be a problem with your winters. I think the Delvac 1300 is a good choice especially in summer.

A 15W-XX becomes a problem at say 5 degrees below 0 F.
Oil "W" Designation


BTW the 22RE has a weak link (I found out the hard Way) After 1992 ( I think thats the year) they went to plastic/Nylon Timing Chain dampers/temnsioners. My timing chain failed to the tune of $1300 at 78K miles. I'm hoping it is good for another 78K. I was lucky in the chain let loose at idle conditions. If the engine were up to speed it could have been bent valve city=$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 
Sometimes I feel like a broken record when I get on here...
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The first "number" is simply an number that relates to the oils cold temperature cranking viscosity. Following the "rule", the lower the first number in a xw-xx oil, the better its low temperature properties will be.

For reducing oil consumption, I'm currently recommending Pennzoil Long-Life because of my experience with it...I've ran Delo, Delvac, and Rotella in all sorts of equipment with not much noticable difference in consumption between them. After switching to Pennzoil Long-Life though, consumption has dropped considerably, in everything from my 'ol Chevy pickup, to a riding lawnmower with a 20hp V-Twin Briggs, to a 70's model Ford tractor.

Give the Long-Life a try and see if it reduces your consumption...

[ December 01, 2003, 07:57 PM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
The W part of multigrade has nothing to do with viscosity at 40 or 100 degrees C. It indicates the cold-pumping ability, not the measured viscosity. So 20W is not the same as 20 weight. Or am I completely and totally wrong?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
The W part of multigrade has nothing to do with viscosity at 40 or 100 degrees C. It indicates the cold-pumping ability, not the measured viscosity. So 20W is not the same as 20 weight. Or am I completely and totally wrong?

You're exactly right.
 
I was under the impression that the 10w was the Base Weight of the oil, and ( using 10w-40 as example) VI additives make that same weight flow as though it was a 40 weight oil at 100C.....
 
I am under the same impression as you are tim H. I would also think that a more robust base oil, say a 15w vs a 10w would be better for reducing oil burning because it would better support the upper viscosity grade. So I am guessingn a 15w40 might burn less than a 10w40.
 
I think I get your point Dr.T. Apparently I did a poor job of saying what I was thinking. What I meant to refer to is the base oil in a 15w rated oil. Thanks.
 
No, the first number refers to it's cold cranking "qualification"...ie. an 5W for example has to pump (within a certain range) at -25C, a 10W has to pump at -20C, etc...

That said, a 10-40 will be thicker than a 5-40 at -25C. The closer the first number is to the second, the more shear stable it generally is because it generally has less 'stuff' in it to achieve the range...ie. a 15-40 will be more shear stable than a 0-40. Secondly, a 15-40 will also generally start with a higher molecular base oil than a 0-40 also making it more shear stable.
 
To JELLY - your post above mentions that you've had good luck cutting oil consumption using Pennzoil Long Life oil. Was that 15w40 or 10W-30? Since I live in "Little Siberia" (Minnesota) 15w40 is suitable for use here only in the summer months. Thanks.
 
So, if my winters can get in the teens or maybe single digits during the night, should I run the 10W30,10W40, or 15W40? I'm currently using the Castrol 10W40 High Mileage Oil with pretty good results. Is the Penzoil Long Life better? Rando
 
quote:

Originally posted by pmt:
To JELLY - your post above mentions that you've had good luck cutting oil consumption using Pennzoil Long Life oil. Was that 15w40 or 10W-30? Since I live in "Little Siberia" (Minnesota) 15w40 is suitable for use here only in the summer months. Thanks.

15w-40
 
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