ESP 0W-30 Acura RDX 3.5 130k miles
Oil Choice For New Honda 3.5L
- Thread starter JWC86
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I'm going to quote from an email chain I had with everyone's most favorite Motor Oil Geek, Lake Speed Jr. This is specifically in regards to the Honda Pilot we bought two months ago with the J35Y8 engine. I'd already changed to Amsoil SS 0W-20 when he sent this, so it was too late for me to continue using Honda's oil. Based on the UOA from the factory fill, I would most definitely stuck with it for several more OCIs.
"Regarding your plan, here’s the proper framework for determining the proper oil for your engine.
Step 1 - Utilize the OEM recommended oil and do two early oil changes during the break-in process (500 to 1,000 miles and again between 3,000 and 4,000 miles). It is ok that you switched to Amsoil Signature Series already. Just stick with it to establish the baseline.
Step 2 - Take used oil samples at each oil change to establish the trend analysis.
Step 3 - Go 5,000 miles on the third oil change and take a used oil sample. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is below 5 ppm, you are good. If the wear rate is between 5 ppm and 10 ppm per 1,000 miles, go another 5,000 miles on the OEM recommended oil and resample. If the wear rate is still greater than 5 ppm per 1,000 miles, then move to step 4.
Step 4 - Since the OEM recommended oil and viscosity have not produced a wear rate per 1,000 miles lower than 5 ppm, go up to next viscosity grade in the OEM oil. Go 4,000 to 5,000 miles on that oil and then take another sample. See if the change in viscosity drops the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm. If it does, you are good. If it does not, then move to Step 5.
Step 5 - Since the change in viscosity did not get the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm, try a different brand of oil in the same viscosity grade of whichever oil had the lowest wear rate per 1,000 miles. You will need to use it for 3,000 to 4,000 miles to flush the OEM oil out of the system before going 5,000 miles on the new oil to take another sample. See if the non-OEM oil lowers the wear rate per 1,000 miles to 5 ppm or less. If it does, you are good. You can then use the oil analysis results to fine tune the oil change interval.
If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is still above 5 ppm, try the next higher viscosity oil of that same brand to see if that lowers the wear rate per 1,000 miles. Finding the best oil for an engine is an iterative process, but the data from the samples (viscosity, additive depletion, wear rate) will paint a picture that guides you in the right direction.
The key is to make decisions based on facts instead of fear. Use the science instead of speculating."
Sample PC-00662 is the OEM oil at 494 miles. The Amsoil on the right was a virgin sample for baseline and the Amsoil on the left was first miles using Amsoil. As you can see, the OEM oil has a very strong additive package.
"Regarding your plan, here’s the proper framework for determining the proper oil for your engine.
Step 1 - Utilize the OEM recommended oil and do two early oil changes during the break-in process (500 to 1,000 miles and again between 3,000 and 4,000 miles). It is ok that you switched to Amsoil Signature Series already. Just stick with it to establish the baseline.
Step 2 - Take used oil samples at each oil change to establish the trend analysis.
Step 3 - Go 5,000 miles on the third oil change and take a used oil sample. If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is below 5 ppm, you are good. If the wear rate is between 5 ppm and 10 ppm per 1,000 miles, go another 5,000 miles on the OEM recommended oil and resample. If the wear rate is still greater than 5 ppm per 1,000 miles, then move to step 4.
Step 4 - Since the OEM recommended oil and viscosity have not produced a wear rate per 1,000 miles lower than 5 ppm, go up to next viscosity grade in the OEM oil. Go 4,000 to 5,000 miles on that oil and then take another sample. See if the change in viscosity drops the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm. If it does, you are good. If it does not, then move to Step 5.
Step 5 - Since the change in viscosity did not get the wear rate per 1,000 miles below 5 ppm, try a different brand of oil in the same viscosity grade of whichever oil had the lowest wear rate per 1,000 miles. You will need to use it for 3,000 to 4,000 miles to flush the OEM oil out of the system before going 5,000 miles on the new oil to take another sample. See if the non-OEM oil lowers the wear rate per 1,000 miles to 5 ppm or less. If it does, you are good. You can then use the oil analysis results to fine tune the oil change interval.
If the wear rate per 1,000 miles is still above 5 ppm, try the next higher viscosity oil of that same brand to see if that lowers the wear rate per 1,000 miles. Finding the best oil for an engine is an iterative process, but the data from the samples (viscosity, additive depletion, wear rate) will paint a picture that guides you in the right direction.
The key is to make decisions based on facts instead of fear. Use the science instead of speculating."
Sample PC-00662 is the OEM oil at 494 miles. The Amsoil on the right was a virgin sample for baseline and the Amsoil on the left was first miles using Amsoil. As you can see, the OEM oil has a very strong additive package.
IMO the OCIs are more important than the oil choice. You say 99% of your wife's driving is short trips under 5 miles, and when she is working the car sits outside. Potentially, that could mean 3, 4, or 5 cold starts per day when she's working.
Having lived in Colorado for 26 months (and being a lifetime coastal climate Californian), I couldn't believe how quickly the big, cast iron, 5.9 liter V8 in our 2000 Dodge Durango got cold to the bone when parked outside in the winter time - especially when the wind was blowing.
Given all the short tripping, I'd want a high quality oil in the crankcase.
If it were me, I'd do an oil change in June, then October, then February; using whatever 0W-20 meets your Honda specs and makes you happy. If you wanted to geek out like a true BITOG'er, use a suitable 0W-30 or 5W-30 from June to October, ideally the same brand as the 0W-20.
Scott
Having lived in Colorado for 26 months (and being a lifetime coastal climate Californian), I couldn't believe how quickly the big, cast iron, 5.9 liter V8 in our 2000 Dodge Durango got cold to the bone when parked outside in the winter time - especially when the wind was blowing.
Given all the short tripping, I'd want a high quality oil in the crankcase.
If it were me, I'd do an oil change in June, then October, then February; using whatever 0W-20 meets your Honda specs and makes you happy. If you wanted to geek out like a true BITOG'er, use a suitable 0W-30 or 5W-30 from June to October, ideally the same brand as the 0W-20.
Scott
I'd like to add, if changing viscosity, don't just stick with the same brand, but same product line. Additive packages should be mostly the same within brand and product line.
Patman
Staff member
Whichever brand you choose I think it’s a great idea to use a 0w oil during the winter months with those kind of potential low temperatures 
A somewhat higher HT/HS and the proven performance of the approvals the oil holds. But that may or may not matter.
Your 2025 Pilot has the newest version of the J35. Unfortunately, in this engine, the VCM function is baked in. The VCM disablers that used to work, don’t work anymore. You are stuck with VCM.
IMO, you should run with VRP forever. This oil will keep the piston rings clean and functional, even with the VCM system operating. Consider a 4k to 5k mile oci.
I am using VRP in my 2018 Pilot, and this oil has made a difference in power and smooth idle. Of course, I have disabled VCM with the S-VCM chip. Unfortunately, you don’t have that option.
IMO, the VRP oil is the real deal for low tension oil control rings. Like your Honda. Like my Honda. I encourage you to try it out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/155736904855?_trkparms=amclksrc=ITM&aid=777008&algo=PERSONAL.TOPIC&ao=1&asc=20250324083038&meid=51c4fff7073e4a4291ea2ae83b0a9c0b&pid=101952&rk=1&rkt=1&mehot=none&itm=155736904855&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=4375194&algv=WatchlistVariantWithMLR_BP&_trksid=p4375194.c101952.m162921&_trkparms=parentrq:3e83dc9a1980a6af00c1b713fffd2514|pageci:12729c66-68dc-11f0-84e8-3e64f192c5ee|iid:1|vlpname:vlp_homepage https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-esp-0w-30 These would be my two choices if using the 0w-30 doesn't hurt your warranty. You need the 30 weight because of the fuel dilution issue with Honda engines. It may dilute down to a 20 weight which would be ok. Any of these would be great to run year-round, IMO. One more good choice would be:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007G7PUMS/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007G7PUMS/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1
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My J35 loves Mobil 1 EP. Mine is older, from the oil burning era, and burns noticeably less on EP than comparably priced oils. I know that doesn't apply to your instance, but it's a great oil.
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Not sure if it’s different in Canada, but M1 ESP is the same price as any other ‘name brand’ oil
I have a nearly identical situation to yours, except the older J35Y5. My wife works only 1/2 mile from our house, and in a nearly identical climate both summer and winter. We also only put about 6-7k miles on per year. Heated garage in the winter, so it gets a cold(ish) start every couple of days in the winter when she leaves work as she only works a few hours a week. I run ESP 0W-30 changed every 9 months, which is about 5k miles for us. If you are concerned about warranty, do what I did when my VW was under warranty: buy 0W-20 online (Amazon, Walmart), print/save the order receipt, then immediately cancel and buy what you want to run. If they ever went sniffing for a claim I would then be able to produce receipts showing the grade spec'd on the cap.
Patman
Staff member
ESP goes on sale at Canadian Tire about once a month for around $43, which is $31.50 US, so it’s reasonably priced here and around the same price as PUP and Edge EP.
I used to drive a 2003 Pilot with the J35A4 engine. First year for Pilots, no VCM. Did not burn a drop of oil. Great SUV. Rust did it in.
Not sure when your Pilot oil burning era happened. Pilots are not known as oil burners —— except for high mileage VCM engines. Sorry, you are right about that.
Disable the VCM if your Pilot is pre-2023. Use Valvoline Restore and Protect to clean up the piston rings. It does make a difference.
Read this one again. I’ve got experience with these engines, four of them, all going 200,000 plus miles on 0w20 without burning a drop of oil. The brand matters little, but I have stuck with Dexos versions of PUP, and Castrol Synthetics. Definitely have used QSFS a few times along with Kirkland. It is not rocket science, it’s not a place for conspiracy theories and most certainly not a search for the holy grail.
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0w?
Carlostrece
$100 Site Donor 2025
Honda recommends only using OEM Genuine Honda fluids, including OEM Genuine Honda brand motor oil of X viscosity. Are you saying to use that brand and viscosity, or are you say to use that viscosity in whatever brand?
You won't find me, or a lot of other BITOG menbers, buying OEM Genuine Honda motor oil.
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Mine isn't a Pilot, I have an Accord. 2008, earlier VCM that I've had disabled for a handful of years now.
Yes. 0w20. Apologies as that detracted from my rant.
I’m a bit confused. Brand doesn’t matter, okay. But what are the rocket science and conspiracy theory and holy grail references?
I usually respect what astrophysicists have to say. I really don’t like Qanon people. And I enjoy Monty Python.
What does all this have to do with 0w oil, whatever that is?
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