Oil change vote for my 1991 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan engine.

I would pick 1or 2 but any of them would be fine in that engine. It will he the last thing to fail unless you overheat it.

Transmission is the biggest weak point, 1991 was the worst year (first year of electronic transmission). When I was a kid my parents had a 1990. It got wrote off at 150k miles or so but it only needed an alternator and blower motor in all of that time. It was a very reliable car. Except it didn't like starting in cold cold weather. The 1979 Impala with a badly adjusted choke had to come to the rescue a few times when that happened.
 
I would pick 1or 2 but any of them would be fine in that engine. It will he the last thing to fail unless you overheat it.

Transmission is the biggest weak point, 1991 was the worst year (first year of electronic transmission). When I was a kid my parents had a 1990. It got wrote off at 150k miles or so but it only needed an alternator and blower motor in all of that time. It was a very reliable car. Except it didn't like starting in cold cold weather. The 1979 Impala with a badly adjusted choke had to come to the rescue a few times when that happened.
I was also going to do a transmission service on it. Kind of makes me nervous LOL
 
... what oil should I put in my 1991 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan V6? It has a slight oil pan leak I do plan on fixing around the springtime. This car drives mostly highway I drive it back and forth to work as my beater. The oil in a currently is a 10w30 Valvoline maxlife full synthetic with a Fram tough guard filter. ....

How many miles and how long is the trip one way? You may not even need to change yet. if you have under 5000 on the clock.
But with the cooler days coming I would go with one of the 5W30. I am not a RGT fan. Or at least my wife's Subaru engine is not a RGT fan in the 5w20 flavor. The 2 liter engine seems to like the thinnest 20 grades.
- Ken
 
How many miles and how long is the trip one way? You may not even need to change yet. if you have under 5000 on the clock.
But with the cooler days coming I would go with one of the 5W30. I am not a RGT fan. Or at least my wife's Subaru engine is not a RGT fan in the 5w20 flavor. The 2 liter engine seems to like the thinnest 20 grades.
- Ken
Well this car is 29 years old and the miles read in the 10K so my guess is 126k judging by the brake pedal and wear of the vehicle. I've only changed the oil one time and that was too years ago. I dont know how well it was maintained but she does leak alittle md I've put about 4500k on it since ive owned it.
 
Well this car is 29 years old and the miles read in the 10K so my guess is 126k judging by the brake pedal and wear of the vehicle. I've only changed the oil one time and that was too years ago. I dont know how well it was maintained but she does leak alittle md I've put about 4500k on it since ive owned it.
Fyi, my 2018 Taurus dont mind the 5w20 RGT, and one way is 24 miles mostly highway.
 
South Carolina, I'd run which ever of the first 3 is cheaper, since it leaks. 5w vs 10w probably won't matter in that temp climate. Save the 20w50 for next summer.
 
I was also going to do a transmission service on it. Kind of makes me nervous LOL
I've done a lot of transmission fluid changes on vehicles that never had service before AFAIK and none of them had any issues. If it's working fine now but fluid looks old, I'd do it.
 
I’ve probably put about 750K miles on various Vulcan 3.0 engines, from Aerostars, Tauruses and the like. My current 3.0 ride is a Ranger with over 200K miles. Most of the oils I’ve used were $2/quart (or less) dino oils, but currently using ShieldChoice (TropArtic) synthetic blend. My advice is that brand is not important, just keep it maintained. The FL400 is adequate, the FL1A won’t fit (and is not needed) unless you do some work on the starter or starter cable. As noted, check the pan bolts and tighten if needed.
it will fit with no modifications. However it's a very tight fit I'm not going to use it I just wanted to put it on there to see if it would
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Any of them should be fine. With winter coming I would use a 5W-30 in it or 10W-30 maybe ok as well but definitely not the 20W-50.
 
Winner is QuakerState. I think most of my oil leak was from the oil filter. I'll dive a little bit and see if it stopped with the new filter. I also did a trans flush on it and changed all trans fluid in it and filter. Fluid was nearly black. Shifts much smoother now. Pray for me though. Those trans weren't the best.
 
I put 354K on my 1991 Ranger 3.0 and the valve covers were never removed. The engine never increase in oil consumption, oil never got coal black, just a dark amber color. When sold, there was no sign of engine wear. Oil used. M1 10-30 at 10K OCIs.
 
I put 354K on my 1991 Ranger 3.0 and the valve covers were never removed. The engine never increase in oil consumption, oil never got coal black, just a dark amber color. When sold, there was no sign of engine wear. Oil used. M1 10-30 at 10K OCIs.
Vulcans engines are one of the best. Not the most powerful but reliable which for me is more important.
 
Option #3 and any old filter!

Live long and prosper, my Vulcan owning friend.

Did I really dig up an old thread? :cool:
 
Car is running just fine on it. Only put about 2k on it since. Will be driving more around spring do to hail storm being more frequent in March and April.
 
My 1988-1993 2.3l ford tempo had a chart in the chilton or hayes manual of weights that were suitable In different temperatures. 10w30 had the widest range. I ran supertech high milage full synthetic. Still do when there's not a big sale.
 
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