oil change idea from a mechanic?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
when he removes the oil pan, he'll have alot of oil dump on him. sucks that you can't drain the oil first. maybe get an oil extractor



crackmeup2.gif




(psst- if he's changing the pan ..he can just drill a hole in it to drain the stuff - but that was a good one
grin2.gif
)
 
just be careful that the oil pan holding bolts don't snap off when trying to get rid of the old pan. With a car that old, if the drain plug gave trouble, the holding bolts to the pan may too...
 
Thanks for all the replies. What is a cheap "orange pump"? Are oil pans reinforced at the drain plug,or can you drill and tap anywhere near the original plug? Would an impact wrench break tack welds? I've tried a 6-point socket,a special gripping socket,and a 10 inch Vice Grip,all to no avail.I'm thinking it would be the easiest to get the old plug out,rather than trying to drill through it to piggyback it with a smaller drain plug. By the way, I removed the plug and changed the oil Nov. 10,2007 with no problem. I had a guy put a muffler on it after I changed the oil,and he did a little exhaust(and probably oil drain plug) welding.Seems like he took his "bad day"out on me?
 
I want pictures!

Angle grinders are about $10 if you catch them on sale at harbor freight, big lots, or any other chinese junk store. These eat welds pretty nicely.

I don't often hear of people welding oil pans when they're, uh, full of oil... out of fear of starting fires...
 
Does anyoe know if the 2.2l. and 2.5l.4cyl.USA Chrysler engines from the 80's and 90's use the Same Oil Pan with a different crank,rods and pistons, or are they entirely different engines?
 
Get 3 or 4 of your buddies over along with a case of beer. Remove the oil cap and roll that old K-car over on it's roof.
By the time everybody has a couple of cold ones, you can roll it back over onto it's wheels and fill the crankcase.....
Be sure to change the filter while it's on it's roof.
crackmeup2.gif
 
moe in wichita ks
iam new here so i hope its ok to jump in. what i would do is take the the pan off and take it to a real welder, have him blow the old junk off and weld a regular nut on, after ALL the oil is warshed off. that way you can use a std bolt. you may have to make a washer. thatll just make it more fun. maybe you could find a bolt that is close to a spark plug and just use spark gaskets. at one time you could buy new spark plug gaskets good luck.
 
What is the oil consumption rate of this beater? If high enough, say a quart every 1000 miles, you will almost be perpetually freshening the oil, then the occasional (say 3000 mile) filter change will give an extra half quart or so of fresh up.
 
It depends on how much of a weld bead there is.

If the bead is huge, long, and hot...not very easy.

If the bead is small, short, and not real hot...much easier.

My first inclination would be to get after it with a grinder if you have the elbow room. You could just grind the weld until the bolt will turn loose.

If the weld was real hot and you can reach the bolt head, you might get it with at sawzall first and then grind what's left.

During any of this sawing and grinding you'll want to be sure you don't get anything hot enough to start any fires. Once the bolt head and/or weld bead is disabled you could drill a hole in what's left of teh bolt and use a big easy-out on it if required.

It's an idea, at least...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Eddie
+1. jUST PUMP IT OUT VIA THE FILL TUBE.


Exactly, My Merc GM 7.4L V8's don't have a drain plug. Been using extractors for 20+ years. Get a Motive brand from Amazon.com for $54. Case closed!
thumbsup2.gif
 
Drill a hole through the center of the welded-in plug,let it drain, then tap it for an 1/8" pipe plug. End of problem.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom