1988 Dodge Aries 2.2L. 68,000 miles. $700 beater. Previous owner recently stripped the drain plug,and had it WELDED back in!! DUMB!! So, I cannot remove the plug. Can I just remove the oil filter, and run the engine for 15 seconds and let the oil pump do the job? (Similar to the trans. fluid cooler line flushes I've read about on this site).If I,m careful and have a helper,will this work? Also, can the car be up on ramps for this procedure? Thanks to all.
oil change idea from a mechanic?
- Thread starter junebug
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If you want your beeter to last a bit longer, consider replacing the oil pan with one from wreckers and make sure that the drain plug is not weld shut. That way, you can change your oil.
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JHZR2
Staff member
yeah a replacement from a junkyard cant be very expensive, or tough to do.
Or you could invest in a 12V oil pump, and just suck what you can out each time.
No way Id ever pull the filter and pump it out via the engine... no way.
JMH
Or you could invest in a 12V oil pump, and just suck what you can out each time.
No way Id ever pull the filter and pump it out via the engine... no way.
JMH
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You can do it ..and probably get away with it. But I wouldn't do it or recommend it. There's even a member that's done this on one piece of hardware he owned ..and admitted it here on BITOG.
Get an extractor as was recommended. You can also have a fine thread nut welded on the pan in another location and drill it out through the pan and install your own bolt. A washer will be in order for providing a sealing surface.
Get an extractor as was recommended. You can also have a fine thread nut welded on the pan in another location and drill it out through the pan and install your own bolt. A washer will be in order for providing a sealing surface.
Or how about drilling the current pan while it's on the car. Then install a self tapping bolt with washer. But test it on something else first. In the worst case, you'll end up replacing the pan... Or you can try to grind the welds off the current drain bolt if it's only in a few places. I wonder how long the oil has been in that car.
Uhhmn, it is a beater. The thing may use enough oil so that constant topping offf will keep the oil good enough. I would figure the consumption before I did anything. Also the top sider would be less trouble than R+Ring the pan
I'd just change the filter every 3,000 and add a quart.
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Get a Motor Guard. Then you just change the tp every 3m/3k. Heck, with a bypass setup, you can drain the outlet into a jug and get it down to less than 2 quart in the sump before adding more oil. Full flow lubrication will be maintained.
While you may think that this is an expensive thing to do, it isn't all that much in comparison to R&R'ing the pan ..or paying for the welding/drilling/etc. if you can't do it yourself or have a pal that can.
The extractor would be the cheapest way ..but the MG could be transferred to another vehicle when the beater is mortally wounded.
While you may think that this is an expensive thing to do, it isn't all that much in comparison to R&R'ing the pan ..or paying for the welding/drilling/etc. if you can't do it yourself or have a pal that can.
The extractor would be the cheapest way ..but the MG could be transferred to another vehicle when the beater is mortally wounded.
An oil extractor should be fine.
Frank D
Frank D
+1. jUST PUMP IT OUT VIA THE FILL TUBE.
Most boats in the 20-28 ft range have oil drain plugs that only a 10 year old could get to so its very normal to drain via the dipstick. You can get a cheap orange hand pump that will handle the oil changes or a real oil extractor or a 12V pump.
They make kits to deal with stripped oil drain plugs so there was no reason to weld the plug in place.
But as others have said this is a beater, so you are on the most cost effective way to do things as opposed to the best. A $10 orange pump would seem the best. And as others have pointed out, you need to understand oil consumption also. If you add enough top off oil, you may never need to change the oil.
They make kits to deal with stripped oil drain plugs so there was no reason to weld the plug in place.
But as others have said this is a beater, so you are on the most cost effective way to do things as opposed to the best. A $10 orange pump would seem the best. And as others have pointed out, you need to understand oil consumption also. If you add enough top off oil, you may never need to change the oil.
Originally Posted By: Cutehumor
when he removes the oil pan, he'll have alot of oil dump on him. ...
If you know you will be able to remove the pan, and that it is of no more use, knock a hole in it. Drive a large nail or a chisel into it.
when he removes the oil pan, he'll have alot of oil dump on him. ...
If you know you will be able to remove the pan, and that it is of no more use, knock a hole in it. Drive a large nail or a chisel into it.
I wouldn't run the engine.
However, if you could eliminate the spark, why couldn't you turn the engine over with the starter and do just what was suggested?
However, if you could eliminate the spark, why couldn't you turn the engine over with the starter and do just what was suggested?
I had the oil pan off an Aries years ago... wasn't a big deal.
If that was my car, I'd just get a junkyard oil pan and swap them out. Use a sharp punch to drain the old pan.
Alternatively, I've fixed a couple of oil pans by brazing in a steel pipe fitting. It's ugly as he1l, but effective.
If that was my car, I'd just get a junkyard oil pan and swap them out. Use a sharp punch to drain the old pan.
Alternatively, I've fixed a couple of oil pans by brazing in a steel pipe fitting. It's ugly as he1l, but effective.
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