Oil Change & Gear shifting jerkiness

[Synthetickiller]

I'm a little new to car care, so please be gentle if I overlooked something obvious.

I have a 2013 Challenger R/T w/ just under 15k miles on it (less than 1yr old).

I've had issues where around the 4400 mile mark, I have to do an oil change or shifting gets jerky & acceleration is sluggish.

I've been using Valvoline 5w-20 Synpower Full synthetic with good results. I recently tried the Quaker State version that's DEXOS1 compliant. The car drove slightly better, but was terribly sluggish & still jerked. Drained the oil & put the old Valvoline back in w/ a Bosch D3410 filter. The symptoms are going away, but I still have some jerkiness w/ park -> reverse & shifting from 1st to 2nd & sometimes 2nd to 3rd.

I know this isn't a forum to discuss mechanical issues as much as oil, but can oil make that much of a difference? Has anyone come across this?

People with the same issue point to the transmission or a solenoid issue, but no one is really commenting on noticeable improvement when changing out used oil for a quality oil. I have the same engine in a 2012 Ram 2500 Hemi running w/ Pennzoil 0w-20 full synthetic & it's butter smooth. Smoother than the Challenger & that's just wrong.

I'm a little confused, so maybe someone can shed some light.

 

[Trav]

Its highly unlikely this has anything to do with with the oil. Its a 2013 take it to the dealer and tell them you think something is wrong with it.
Don't tell them you are changing oil like someone possessed just that it feels like its jerking and sluggish .

 

[Olas]

Check injectors, plugs, coils, compression, vac. leaks, o2 sensor and pedal (if dbw)..

Then flush&fill, and throw a bottle of redline in the tank.

 

[Synthetickiller]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Its highly unlikely this has anything to do with with the oil. Its a 2013 take it to the dealer and tell them you think something is wrong with it.
Don't tell them you are changing oil like someone possessed just that it feels like its jerking and sluggish .


It's so strange. Every time I change the oil, like clockwork, the car rides significantly smoother. This is why I worry about bringing it in since symptoms come & go.

I'll probably end up seeing what they can do anyways. Obviously, I won't mention the oil changes. They less they know, the better. It's still under warranty, but my experience with claiming warranties is **** poor. I'll see what they can do for me without charging an arm & a leg.

Thanks for reconfirming what I thought.


Originally Posted By: Olas
Check injectors, plugs, coils, compression, vac. leaks, o2 sensor and pedal (if dbw)..

Then flush&fill, and throw a bottle of redline in the tank.


I took a look at redline. I'm probably confused about this, but redline states that the the oil film is thicker than 5/10w-30. I've read that the MDS on my car is sensitive to a more viscous oil, so that worries me & it's why I've stuck to 0/5w-20 instead of a 30/40 grade oil.

I'll have to look into everything else mentions & at the very least, those are things to bring up w/ the dealership if it comes to that.


Thanks for the quick reply guys. This forum lives up to it's reputation.

If anyone has any other ideas or things to ask about if I get it serviced, I'm more than open to ideas.

 

[gregk24]

This has nothing to do with your motor oil, I would take to the dealer ASAP.

 

[i812]

Originally Posted By: Synthetickiller
Originally Posted By: Trav
Its highly unlikely this has anything to do with with the oil. Its a 2013 take it to the dealer and tell them you think something is wrong with it.
Don't tell them you are changing oil like someone possessed just that it feels like its jerking and sluggish .


It's so strange. Every time I change the oil, like clockwork, the car rides significantly smoother. This is why I worry about bringing it in since symptoms come & go.

I'll probably end up seeing what they can do anyways. Obviously, I won't mention the oil changes. They less they know, the better. It's still under warranty, but my experience with claiming warranties is **** poor. I'll see what they can do for me without charging an arm & a leg.

Thanks for reconfirming what I thought.


Originally Posted By: Olas
Check injectors, plugs, coils, compression, vac. leaks, o2 sensor and pedal (if dbw)..

Then flush&fill, and throw a bottle of redline in the tank.


I took a look at redline. I'm probably confused about this, but redline states that the the oil film is thicker than 5/10w-30. I've read that the MDS on my car is sensitive to a more viscous oil, so that worries me & it's why I've stuck to 0/5w-20 instead of a 30/40 grade oil.

I'll have to look into everything else mentions & at the very least, those are things to bring up w/ the dealership if it comes to that.


Thanks for the quick reply guys. This forum lives up to it's reputation.

If anyone has any other ideas or things to ask about if I get it serviced, I'm more than open to ideas.


Olas is referring to Redline fuel additive. Redline

 

[RF Overlord]

I know certain light duty diesels' high-pressure injection pumps use the engine oil to trigger the injectors, so I could see how your situation *might* apply to them, but I've never heard of that issue on a petrol engine.

@ the OP: Please don't just go away and never tell us what you find. Although I can't see any possible way oil can affect your car's driveability, I'm curious as to the results.

 

[ag_ghost]

May or may not be related, but a friend of mine had a 2013 Challenger with such serious issues that they lemon-lawed him a new one although the 2014 version has had to have its auto tranny replaced. I'll try to confirm the symptoms on the first unit.
Stay tough!

 

[drolds]

What I suspect is more of an electronic- machanical problem. Your 2013 5.7 Hemi has VVT(variable valve timing) and MDS (multiple displacement system). Either of these is sensitive to oil viscosity. Dexos 1 spec is not likely relevant. You should be able to use any brand of 5W-20 you choose if it meets the car maker's specs and use it for say 6000 miles. While a motor oil may shear just a bit or even thicken a tiny bit after say 4400 miles, it will likely test OK with UOA. That is why I would suspect something with either the VVT or MDS system.
What you ought to do is get this problem verified by the dealer asap. Even if they want you to buy an oil change from them, it may be worth it. When the problem re-occurs with their oil and filter, you have them nailed. Although if the problem is verified with your present oil change, you still have a legitimate case. Don't delay as you could have an expensive problem down the road after the warranty runs out. You may want to speak directly with the dealership's service director instead of a service- adviser. Keep us posted as this is a curious problem.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: gregk24
This has nothing to do with your motor oil, I would take to the dealer ASAP.


Agreed. I might be inclined to wait until the problem shows up, then go to the dealer.


As far as having trouble with warranty work, tell them the problem. If they say it is normal, tell them you should test drive a new vehicle with the same powertrain to compare.

 

[lumpy_grits]

Take it to the dealer and have'em see if it has 'thrown' a trouble code.
Get a paper trail started--
LG

 

[ag_ghost]

Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
May or may not be related, but a friend of mine had a 2013 Challenger with such serious issues that they lemon-lawed him a new one although the 2014 version has had to have its auto tranny replaced. I'll try to confirm the symptoms on the first unit.
Stay tough!

My friend's Challenger had a "quiver/vibration at 1700 rpm. It was somehow out of balance", apparently different. Good luck.
Kevin

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: drolds
What I suspect is more of an electronic- machanical problem. Your 2013 5.7 Hemi has VVT(variable valve timing) and MDS (multiple displacement system). Either of these is sensitive to oil viscosity. Dexos 1 spec is not likely relevant. You should be able to use any brand of 5W-20 you choose if it meets the car maker's specs and use it for say 6000 miles. While a motor oil may shear just a bit or even thicken a tiny bit after say 4400 miles, it will likely test OK with UOA. That is why I would suspect something with either the VVT or MDS system.
What you ought to do is get this problem verified by the dealer asap. Even if they want you to buy an oil change from them, it may be worth it. When the problem re-occurs with their oil and filter, you have them nailed. Although if the problem is verified with your present oil change, you still have a legitimate case. Don't delay as you could have an expensive problem down the road after the warranty runs out. You may want to speak directly with the dealership's service director instead of a service- adviser. Keep us posted as this is a curious problem.



How many hemi's you own because I've owned 3 and service 3 more and I can say without a shadow of a doubt that vvt and mds is absolutely unaffected by oil grade and operate just fine whether you've got a 20 grade or 40 grade.
I wish people would do their homework before spouting info that isn't true.


Let's consider that a 20 grade cold is way thicker than a 40 grade hot,yet mds and vvt work just fine as the engine warms up,so to believe that mds of vvt is in some way harmed or affected is absolutely absurd.
I've run 40 grades in my charger and mds works great. Fuel economy is unchanged as compared to a 20 grade.
So please do your homework before posting incorrect info.