Oil catch can

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I have a oil catch can on my 14 GT. It's a UPR brand can. I used to run a Bob's can. Here is a couple of pictures of the UPR can.



Wayne
 
Originally Posted By: horse123
Ever since someone gave me this piece of advice I stopped looking at such devices.


"Do you really think that car manufacturers would overlook something so simple and effective if it actually did anything?"


Yes they would! Every time they can save a dollar in production, they will. Like when my semi truck came from the factory new. I had to replace the stupid wastegate turbo with a larger BW turbo, and replace the lame stack mufflers with high flow Walkers. And the stock exhaust manifold got thrown in the metal recycle bin and a polished, ported, ceramic coated one put on in it's place. Effective? How about a truck with a 12.7L motor that will pull right along with 15L motor equipped trucks all day long and still get 20-25% better fuel economy than the general trucking sector averages. Now, given that fuel is the largest part of any trucking operation, you would think that the OEM's would try and make things more efficient. They have, but they have only done the minimum they have to to get by.

Another of the most cost effective, simple, and cheap things to do? Put Counteract balancing beads in tires. About $15 for the average user, but a lot cheaper if it was done as part of production. Again, it is going to be hard to say it isn't worth it when I stand outside my commercial truck and measure about 9/32nd tread left on tires that have 420,000 miles on them! The original drive tires that came from the factory and the truck just turned over 420,000 miles. Nice even wear. Primarily because I put balancing beads in the tires when I first got the truck and rotated them every 50,000 miles. So you think that the OEM wouldn't scrimp to save a few bucks and avoid doing something if they knew it would work


A catch can? That would be chump change in a production assembly setup. I ran one on my last pickup, and moved it over to my 2015 2500HD 6.0L. It captures about one oz every 1000-1200 miles, which corresponds almost to a T with the amount of oil that gets "used" by this motor. Same was true for the 2013 1500 with a 5.3L I had. Now, I suppose that many would have no problem with about 8 oz of oil going into the intake between OCI's, coating the intake valves, contributing to carbon buildup in the cylinders, etc but I would rather stop the oil before it gets there.

The OEM is just interested in getting thru the building and selling a vehicle, and getting thru the warranty..... all at the lowest cost possible. It is called business.

Actually, I run a dual setup from Conceptual Polymer. Their regular catch can followed by the High Efficiency catch can. There is absolutely nothing but blow by getting back to the intake. No condensation, no oil, or no particulates. The first can captures the bulk of what gets caught, then the follow up high efficiency can grabs anything that might have made it thru the first can.
 
Originally Posted By: horse123
Well that's funny, because I dare you to go on the street in a busy city and take a survey of how many people change their oil themselves. Probably 2 or 3 people per 50 asked.

Very few people change their own oil, did that stop car manufacturers from putting oil in engines?

I know 10 year old children with better logical thinking skills.


A bit worked up, are we? No need to get upset, let me explain. If drivers do not drain the catch can then it becomes a service routine that has to be done, possibly at every oil change, by the mechanic doing the oil change. It becomes another line item that the customer will be charged for and they will not be happy about it. In their mind it becomes a strike against the manufacturer who equips their cars with catch cans.
 
I'm also using a UPR catch can on my 5.0L F150, and have been impressed with the performance. After roughly 4000km the reservoir is 2/3 full.

I purchased it with the exact same hose you did, and after only one year of service the inlet hose from the PCV valve became very porous and was wet with oil. The outlet hose to the throttle body was bone dry inside and out. I ended up replacing both hoses with Gates brand emissions/vacuum rated hose from NAPA. I also ended up using ear clamps to restrain the hoses to the fittings; no annoying worm clamps to tighten and no potential for vacuum leaks.

 
It is possible that adding a oil catch can to your engine will not help prevent intake valve deposits (IVD) and could actually increase them.

wemay posted a 2013 Japanese study on IVD, and on page 14 they showed that on the Hyundai GDI engine they were testing:

Quote:
"By passing the positive crankcase ventilation lines" ... "No improvement in IVD formation"

Actually they measured an IVD increase of 7%.
I think that any increase might be caused by removing the water vapor and lighter oil volatiles from the intake air flow.

This is why I have not bothered to add a catch can to my engine.

BTW, the 'Fresh Lubricant' to 'Used lubricant' IVD comparison on page 16 between Group II (+0.2%), III(+13.6%, +15.3% to Group II), and IV(+60%, +35% to Group II) is interesting.
 
Wow, how did I miss that post!? Thanks for linking it, definitely very interesting. Now I have more to consider...
 
Originally Posted By: BitterShard
It is possible that adding a oil catch can to your engine will not help prevent intake valve deposits (IVD) and could actually increase them.

wemay posted a 2013 Japanese study on IVD, and on page 14 they showed that on the Hyundai GDI engine they were testing:

Quote:
"By passing the positive crankcase ventilation lines" ... "No improvement in IVD formation"

Actually they measured an IVD increase of 7%.
I think that any increase might be caused by removing the water vapor and lighter oil volatiles from the intake air flow.

This is why I have not bothered to add a catch can to my engine.

BTW, the 'Fresh Lubricant' to 'Used lubricant' IVD comparison on page 16 between Group II (+0.2%), III(+13.6%, +15.3% to Group II), and IV(+60%, +35% to Group II) is interesting.


The Ford 5.0L TI-VCT has port injection along with EGR controlled by the VCT. How could I end up with more IVD when the substances that cause them are only present in the intake in the most miniscule amount? Combine that with port injection where I have the solvency of gasoline to help clean them? I'm aware that my catch can is not the end for intake oil ingestion (after all the valve stem seals allow for some controlled leakage), but FWIW it has made a drastic reduction of it. If it was a worthless piece I would have taken it off by now.
 
Originally Posted By: CurtisB

The Ford 5.0L TI-VCT has port injection... with port injection where I have the solvency of gasoline to help clean them...


The report first demonstrated that gasoline detergents were sufficient to control IVD in port injected engines (page 7). The rest of the report is discussing Direct Injected engines not Port Injected engines.

Originally Posted By: CurtisB

The Ford 5.0L TI-VCT has port injection along with EGR controlled by the VCT. How could I end up with more IVD when the substances that cause them are only present in the intake in the most miniscule amount?


The PCV gasses contain water vapor and light hydrocarbon elements, these are common solvents.

Originally Posted By: CurtisB
... but FWIW it has made a drastic reduction of it.


Perhaps you would like to tell us about how you measured your IVD before and after installing your catch can on your port injected engine.
 
Originally Posted By: BowNisPar
Very clean setup, thanks for sharing. Why did you change brands?


Well, catch cans have become an interest of mine ever since I bought my Mustang almost two years ago. When UPR came out with their new improved four chamber catch can, I decided to try it out. Here is what the insides look like broken down.


Wayne
 
Originally Posted By: CurtisB
I'm also using a UPR catch can on my 5.0L F150, and have been impressed with the performance. After roughly 4000km the reservoir is 2/3 full.

I purchased it with the exact same hose you did, and after only one year of service the inlet hose from the PCV valve became very porous and was wet with oil. The outlet hose to the throttle body was bone dry inside and out. I ended up replacing both hoses with Gates brand emissions/vacuum rated hose from NAPA. I also ended up using ear clamps to restrain the hoses to the fittings; no annoying worm clamps to tighten and no potential for vacuum leaks.




I used to run that version of the UPR can on my Mustang when I first got it but my outlet hose was not dry at all but wet with oil and is why I quit using it and went with the Bob's can that just left a slight oil film in the outlet hose.

On this new version can, I added some stainless steel mesh that I had from my old style UPR can to the bottom of this new can to keep the oil that collects from becoming airborne in the can when the car goes over bumps, corners, etc. My Bob's can is designed that way and I like that so that is why I made the modification.

So far with this modification, I am not getting any signs of oil in the outlet hose which is a first for me with all of the cans I have tried.

I will keep an eye out on the hoses to make sure they don't start seeping. If they do, I will replace them with some better stuff.

Wayne
 
Originally Posted By: BowNisPar
Looks like a very nicely constructed unit. Thank you for sharing!


You are welcome. Here are a few more pictures.




Wayne
 
Originally Posted By: wtd
Originally Posted By: BowNisPar
Very clean setup, thanks for sharing. Why did you change brands?


Well, catch cans have become an interest of mine ever since I bought my Mustang almost two years ago. When UPR came out with their new improved four chamber catch can, I decided to try it out. Here is what the insides look like broken down.


Wayne


Is there a drain port/valve on the bottom of that can, or do you have to disassemble the whole thing to empty it??
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Originally Posted By: wtd
Originally Posted By: BowNisPar
Very clean setup, thanks for sharing. Why did you change brands?


Well, catch cans have become an interest of mine ever since I bought my Mustang almost two years ago. When UPR came out with their new improved four chamber catch can, I decided to try it out. Here is what the insides look like broken down.


Wayne


Is there a drain port/valve on the bottom of that can, or do you have to disassemble the whole thing to empty it??


You don't have to totally disassemble it to drain it. You just unscrew the bottom of the can from the top to empty it. All of the other pieces are screwed into the top part of the can and stay in place with the bottom off. I wish it had a drain plug though. My other can did.

Wayne
 
I installed one on my 2011 Kia Optima within 6 months of getting the car. I get much more gunk in the winter.
 
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