KIA Soul oil level reading is different

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from previous vehicles . Noticed this last night in the owners manual . Throughout the years I've used the NORMAL check of the oil level by checking the dipstick 15 > 20 minutes later after running . Then remove the dipstick to clean it off , reinstall and take it out for the oil LEVEL ( sometimes twice ) . Never removed oil cap or leave dipstick out of tube before the reading . Reason for this post is that the oil level of the new '25 Soul ( 2 Ltr. ) is reading around 3/4 between Low + Full with the usual method . Will be interesting to see if it reads higher with KIA's directions . The '18 HYUNDAI Accent ( 1.6 Ltr. ) uses the mainstream reading for the oil level .

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How is this different from most other makes and models? Running the vehicle at full operating temp, shutting off for a short period of time, and checking is a very typical method. I typically just check the level cold since it's easier to read and it seems about the same level as warm anyways.

The key is not to check the oil level too soon after shutoff or you'll get an inaccurate low reading. The oil needs time to fully drain back into the sump.
 
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I also find it's easiest to check it dead cold. After running there is oil splashed up the dipstick that can cause smearing and hard to read conditions. If you're really worried that much about oil expansion just fill it 3/4 to the max mark.
 
from previous vehicles . Notied this last night in the owners manual . Throughout the years I've used the NORMAL check of the oil level by checking the dipstick 15 > 20 minutes later after running . Then remove the dipstick to clean it off , reinstall and take it out for the oil LEVEL ( sometimes twice ) . Never removed oil cap or leave dipstick out of tube before the reading . Reason for this post is that the oil level of the new '25 Soul ( 2 Ltr. ) is reading around 3/4 between Low + Full with the usual method . Will be interesting to see if it reads higher with KIA's directions . The '18 HYUNDAI Accent ( 1.6 Ltr. ) uses the mainstream reading for the oil level .

I'll guess the readings are similar either way. Keep us posted, though, because I'm curious the results.
 
The removal of the cap and dipstick may be in case there is a vacuum on the top of the engine holding oil in the passageways. A functioning PCV should negate this requirement.
I don't think I've ever seen taking off the oil cap as a requirement. Not in anything I've owned at least.
 
How is this different from most other makes and models? Running the vehicle at full operating temp, shutting off for a short period of time, and checking is a very typical method. I typically just check the level cold since it's easier to read and it seems about the same level as warm anyways.

The key is not to check the oil level too soon after shutoff or you'll get an inaccurate low reading. The oil needs time to fully drain back into the sump.

Do cold readings as well . It states to remove oil cap and dipstick and wait 15 minutes ( or longer ) for the oil to return to the oil pan for correct reading . Similar to an oil change to get oil to flow out easier .
 
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Probably to help remove pressure to allow oil to drain back down faster.

I've done both cold/hot checks. Some cars specify that. For the Chevy it doesn't matter. It's at full mark cold or 20 mins after hot. This engine is by far the easiest to check and change the oil I've had. Even 6qts too. Dipstick is easy to read.
 
Well then, I have no idea why they say to remove the oil cap....
Because the dipstick itself is normally sealed with O ring(s), if the filler cap is not removed a pressure or vacuum situation may develope in the tube itself. Of course, that depends on how and where it's vented. To ensure consistency, I always remove the filler cap first.
Key thing seems to be that they would prefer the oil to be checked hot.

A GM engineer once told me that the oil pump will pump about 6 GPM, it doesn't take 15 minutes for the oil to flow back down into the oil pan. Once again, for consistency, give it "some" drain back time.
 
Mazda says the same thing.

When I change the oil in my wifes CX-5 and my Mazda 3, I put in 5 quarts, which puts it a touch more than halfway up dipdtick (between low/full.) The next morning, I check it. It typically raises a little bit. I then add .2 quarts or so to bring it to full line.

After that, whenever I check it, I do it cold.
 
I also find it's easiest to check it dead cold. After running there is oil splashed up the dipstick that can cause smearing and hard to read conditions. If you're really worried that much about oil expansion just fill it 3/4 to the max mark.
Just reinsert the dip stick to check, I'm pretty sure the dipstick tube in the 2.0 duratec goes below the oil level and I guess air must accumulate in the tube through bubbles or just from g-forces exposing the bottom of the tube, or cold oil taking its time making it back down to the pan. So I was just pulling the dipstick after it sitting overnight, seeing it near the low mark and adding a half quart, and a couple weeks later I checked and was low again, so I added another half quart... A week later I check and its near the low mark again, which makes no sense as its not burning that much oil, so I put the dipstick back in and it was a .25" over filled... So now I always check the level on the second dip.
 
You'd think condensation could form inside a tire from changes in temperatures . This would be due to warmer temps within and the colder temps that contact the outside surface of the tire .
 
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