Oil Burn off?

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I have put 1,100 miles so far on my car using 0W-30 Series 2000 from Amsoil and havnt burned a drop. By now, (i believe), there 5w-30 and M1's 5w-30 would have burned off a little. I check my oil every week or two due to the mega miles I put on and usually after a 1,000 miles, I would have burned off maybe 1/5 of a quart. I'm curious to know if this new Amsoil 0w-30 will help reduce burn off compared to the 5W's from Amsoil and Mobil? So far so good. I'll see what happens in another thousand or so....by then I can get a good read. According to my manual, oil burn off is common and varies on the engine. Some engines, like Corvettes, burn allot of oil. In my car, the manual states it has to do with negative pressure when the piston moves down. (something like that).

[ November 26, 2002, 05:19 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
the natural design of gasoline engines guarantees at least a very small amount of oil burning. there's some oil left on the cylinder walls every time the piston goes down that gets burnt, you just have a small amount.

this 'not a drop' thing...
 
quote:

Originally posted by Greg:
the natural design of gasoline engines guarantees at least a very small amount of oil burning. there's some oil left on the cylinder walls every time the piston goes down that gets burnt, you just have a small amount.

this 'not a drop' thing...


As long as we're nitpicking:

I'd bet more oil vaporizes than gets burned, ie rapid oxidation.
 
I know that every engine has to use at least a tiny bit of oil, however my wife's Honda just finished up a 5000 mile interval with Mobil 1, and when it started out, the oil was about a few milimeters above the full line, and when I checked it just before I changed it, the dipstick still showed it being at the same spot. So this engine probably used less than 50ml of oil in 5k. It was running SJ formula Mobil 1 5w30 TriSynthetic.
 
long measured thingys.....
tongue.gif
 
As we all know, it is impossible to tell if any oil has been consumed without comparing the specific gravity and volatiles of the end product with unused oil. I am sure we all have known someone who's engine "manufactured" "oil" and it would get higher on the dipstick as it went along.
 
Even if the engine is technically using some oil, to me I say my wife's engine does not burn oil. It's full when I put in the fresh oil at the beginning of the interval, and not enough burns off that it needs topping up at all, so to me, that is as close to zero consumption as you can get. Like I said above, perhaps it uses 50ml of oil in 5k, but we're splitting hairs here, that is pretty darn good. My Firebird on the other hand, leaks out oil from the intake manifold, and I need to put in 100ml of oil every 1000km. Not a huge amount, so I don't plan on having my engine torn down just yet, but if it ever doubles in consumption, I probably will. It's an all day job to pull off the intake manifold and reseal it, plus then I also need to either move, or heat wrap the EGR pipes, as the heat from that is what apparently causes the intake to eventually leak (since the intake uses RTV sealant on the back instead of a gasket)
 
Pat,

Slightly off topic here but if/when you decide to fix your LT1 intake leak I would suggest getting another EGR tube from Dal or your favorite source of GM parts.

If possible, mock it up on an engine that is out of the car. All the new tubes must be bent to fit. Bend it away from the rear of the manifold. Once you get it perfect (it would be very hard to do inside your car -- possible but hard, have the new EGR tube ceramic coated. The ceramic coating will hold up well and keep just enough of the heat inside the tube to eliminate the problem of drying out the RTV.
 
Thanks for the tips! Sooner or later I'll get it fixed, but it's only leaking such a small amount that it's not a concern right now, and my oil analysis results indicate that nothing is getting into the oil (such as more dirt for example)
 
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