Oh, The Joys of Home Ownership (Tub Leak)

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How old is the home? I'd probably cut the copper waste line just downstream of the copper trap and eliminate everything upstream. New waste and overflow, new trap and use a quality Fernco coupler or the likes to couple the new plastic to the copper. Either that or remove the copper drain line if there an accessible plumbing fitting further downstream.

Yeah, your plumber was a hack. I've never seen one leave such a crude drywall hole.. ever.
 
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
Had mine done about three weeks ago.
Fortunately, since I have no ceiling in my basement, it merely leaked on the floor. Plumber PVC'd the whole thing.
Problem solved.
However, if I paid a plumber, I'd make him come back and fix it right.


Very lucky! Based on what I've seen and what you guys are saying, I don't want this guy back in the house. I spoke with him this morning and was nice about not needing his services. The guy has been a pleasure to speak with on the phone.

Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Not much to the job. Fix it and be done, I'd do the whole drain and trap to some good point where the pipe is clean to couple to.

But I think the ceiling repair will be the touchiest item. Why would he open it up like that?!? Should have found joists and cut the Sheetrock around there, either at the halfway mark, or the edge (so you could install blocking and screw a repair into that).

I wouldn't call that plumber back...


Good idea. The pipe runs exactly 2' to a 90* elbow, and then runs toward the wall, to right above the kitchen sink. It also elbows right near the heating duct for the bathroom, making it pretty tight quarters there. I'm also not sure a pipe cutter would even close to fit in there, so would the best spot to tie in all new PVC be right where the trap is now?

Sweat-out the old brazing and attached right there?

Originally Posted By: 285south
Yeah the pop-corn ceiling was invented by the Hades Company.


Haha, good one!

Originally Posted By: GiveMeAVowel
Originally Posted By: gathermewool

I couldn't get home, so we used a plumber recommended by our condo manager, who came over within an hour. He cut into the ceiling and immediately diagnosed the problem very confidently as the overflow line from the tub. He replaced the gasket and said that there were no other repairs needed.

One of the first checks I did was turn on the water in the shower and check for leaks. The leak was still there, right at the main drain fitting; it was where the first straight run of pipe threaded into drain elbow beneath the tub, not at the fitting itself. Come to find out, he didn't check for leaks at all before or after the work!
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Condo manager getting kickbacks from that [censored] hack that calls himself a plumber? I'd let the "condo manager" know about the shoddy workmanship of his friend. LOL


My wife is on the board and seems to like the lady, and we've actually had her husband, an electrician, do good work for us, but yea, that kind of thing is always on my mind, especially since the plumber was so young. He was well-spoken, my wife and a friend who is more mechanically-inclined (but not a plumber) came over to oversee the guy and said he seemed competent.

It might just be, that due to it being an "emergency call," he didn't bring over the right tools or know what he was getting himself into? I wasn't the one who called him, because I was at work, so I don't know what he came expecting to find. I would assume he'd expect the worst and bring everything...

Originally Posted By: BRZED
That cheese ceiling may contain asbestos.


I thought about that, and also lead-based paint, since my condo was built in the 60's, but the section here was probably replaced relatively recently due to a similar leak that wasn't repaired properly, as you guys describe it should have been.

You can see the fiber tape and a bit of sagging in just one rectangular section from when this was previously done. I can see up to the wall of our second bedroom on the second floor a new section of drywall behind the fittings for the tub valves. The PO mentioned having a leak there, so I'm assuming that, based on the two observations, that the drywall in the section that is cut out is relatively new.


Originally Posted By: Plumber
The drain body screws into the shoe. Replace them both. Put pipe dope on the threads of the shoe when you tighten it.


The shoe is the elbow that the drain body threads into, with a gasket between it and the drain body? I looked online and the videos that I found showed the drain body inserting into PVC. I'm going to head to the store now to get some supplies, but what you're saying is that the drain body and shoe should be bought together? I guess that would negate the need to pull the drain body first and take it to the store to match it up, thread-wise, to a new one.

Originally Posted By: Rand
I'll call the plumber up and ask for a refund.


For all I know, the overflow gasket was deteriorated and leaking, and he made the mistake of latching on to that.

Originally Posted By: JTK
How old is the home? I'd probably cut the copper waste line just downstream of the copper trap and eliminate everything upstream. New waste and overflow, new trap and use a quality Fernco coupler or the likes to couple the new plastic to the copper. Either that or remove the copper drain line if there an accessible plumbing fitting further downstream.

Yeah, your plumber was a hack. I've never seen one leave such a crude drywall hole.. ever.


'60's. That sounds like the best option. Everything looks so old that I'm worried they will leak soon, too, just after I repair the ceiling. I've seen the rubber couplings used before, thanks for the reminder.

I do have a buddy who is going to help out, but what do you guys think, far as specifics? I'm pretty new to this, so any specific guidance, more than what you've already very graciously provided, I mean.

Is it as simple as measuring, giving the dimensions I need and having the pieces fab'd for me?
 
This should all be standard, off the shelf parts for you. I had a similar situation in our last home built in ~1955. A copper water line buried in the kitchen ceiling (for the upstairs bathroom) sprung a tiny pin-hole leak. Since I had to open up some areas of the ceiling, we replaced everything that looked sketchy. That home had galvanized waste lines though.. Really bad. We replaced everything we could get at with plastic.
 
If not leaving a ceiling access panel to address the inevitable future leak, I would install a glued system to eliminate most leak points. Maybe use a screw adapter at the pvc to copper union. Mount everything to allow expansion/contraction and tub movement.

bathdrain.jpg

19817d1271961327-noisy-bathtub-drain-p-trap.jpg


If you do go with a no hub connector from PVC to copper, use the steel banded type. Anyone know if this is allowed in an enclosed wall?
FH05MAY_METTRA_15.JPG
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
How old is the home? I'd probably cut the copper waste line just downstream of the copper trap and eliminate everything upstream. New waste and overflow, new trap and use a quality Fernco coupler or the likes to couple the new plastic to the copper. Either that or remove the copper drain line if there an accessible plumbing fitting further downstream.


This is exactly what I'd do as well. Install a new glued PVC drain system for that tub and be done with it. You'll eventually have to connect it to the copper pipe -- exactly where will probably be self evident as you get into it a little more.

You should be able to sweat an adapter onto the copper that will allow you to either slip or thread a PVC pipe to it.
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
This should all be standard, off the shelf parts for you. I had a similar situation in our last home built in ~1955. A copper water line buried in the kitchen ceiling (for the upstairs bathroom) sprung a tiny pin-hole leak. Since I had to open up some areas of the ceiling, we replaced everything that looked sketchy. That home had galvanized waste lines though.. Really bad. We replaced everything we could get at with plastic.


If that's the case, then it seems like it would make sense to cut over toward the adjacent wall and replace the drain from the sink, too.

Below are pics of the damaged section of ceiling, and then a pic of the length of piping from the trap, heading 90* toward the adjacent wall, just beneath where our kitchen sink is (sorry, I didn't clean the cob webs.)

From the day of:



From today:



Trap to drain line:
 
The joint between the first horizontal length of piping and the elbow (the shoe is what member Plumber named it) beneath the tub came completely apart with a little bit of movement. The connection was (key word 'was') indeed threaded; however, the threads have corroded away and the pipe came completely loose from the elbow (shoe.)


 
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I think I know what you guys are going to say, but, as a temporary fix to get my shower back up and running, what do you think of a kit, like this?

Home Depot Kohler Kit

It says it's for 14-16" deep tubs. I measured exactly 15" from the very top of the overflow flange to the bottom of the tee.
 
Wow..what a hatchet job he did on the ceiling! Did he use a baseball bat or a car bumper? That's an interesting combination of fittings as well...

That ply looks like it's been wet for awhile due to the evidence of delamination. Floor leak? Use a mirror to inspect while the ceiling is open.
 
That ceiling has been repaired once already, by the look of the cottage cheese finish... looks like for the same problem once before.
 
Okay...Okay....for all those complaining about the nasty hole in the ceiling....

Does anyone REALLY want to pay a plumber to cut a real nice, even, clean hole in their ceiling?

Heck no! Cut it open, repair the problem and let the handyman at $15 an hour fix the hole.

Also, copper and pvc have a different wall thickness. This requires a special band.
 
I replaced a shoe, gasket, and drain body the other day. $150

The homeowner cut the hole.
 
TL/DR version (cliff notes):

1. Cut/removed everything and replaced with PVC.

2. Waste drain (shoe) gasket was compressed, stretched and discontinuous. The only thing keeping the waste drain sealed was the plumbers putty beneath the drain body flange.

The threads on the tube connected the shoe were corroded way (the apparent cause of the leak.)

3. Cut out the affected drywall, installed a new section, and put the first coat of spackle, which I'll rework when dry. I cut a hole in the drywall and bought a spring-loaded access/inspection panel for cheap.

4. Shower works just fine now

I cut out the drain pot and removed the rest of that [censored] and installed a PVC kit from Home Depot. My buddy help me cut out the affected drywall and install a new section. We didn't do the best job, having to use a good amount of spackle, but I think it will look fine after I let the spackle there now dry, sand it down, and then re-spackle tomorrow or the next day.

Having researched Youtube videos and other posts all yesterday morning and afternoon, before attacking the job, I found a great idea: I cut an 8"X8" square, right beneath the newly-installed p-trap. This will allow for cleaning of hair (I'll need something to hook up in there) and inspections, to make sure this doesn't happen again.
//

I hate the popcorn ceiling as much as all of you, but to remove it will take a LOT of effort, since it has been there for a long time and has been painted over. It's not worth it for me to remove, so I bought some popcorn texture in a can to spray on after I get the panel looking relatively flush.

I'll post up pics after it's all done, for anyone interested.
 
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