Oh No! What did I do to my engine? Reassurances Please! (long!)

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I have what I think is a persistent carbon build-up problem in my combustion chambers. The symptoms are stumbling and surging at low throttle angles at low speeds. I run cleaners all the time, but it keeps coming back. The reason I think it is carbon is the CC’s is that a quick Italian tune-up remedies the problem. As an example, on Saturday, the stumbling seemed a bit worse than usual. I did an Italian tune-up and it went away. But the problem will come back again. Strong fuel system cleaners combined with frequent Italian tune-ups keeps the problem at bay.

On Sunday, I thought maybe I could speed up the process and/or keep it away for a bit longer if I did one of those “cleaners through a vacuum port” treatments. I had a 12oz bottle of Techron on the shelf. The car was good and warm. I started by using a syringe type injector and fed the Techron through the PCV line. This was taking forever. Fill the syringe, remove the PCV line, inject it, and replace the line. I had to replace the line each time because of the huge vacuum leak with it disconnected. The engine didn’t stumble at all during these “injections.”

This was taking so long I found a quicker method. I connected a hose to the PCV port and put a funnel on the other end. I VERY SLOWLY poured the remaining Techron through the hose. The engine was stumbling because of the vacuum leak. When I was done pouring I ran to the key to turn it off. This is when the “fun” began. NOT! The car started dieseling. In hindsight, it was due to the open vacuum line allowing air into the engine. I did this for quite a while. I thought maybe I hadn’t turned the key all the way so I ran back to the key and pulled it all the way out. The car was still dieseling and making HORRIBLE noises. I heard some LOUD metal banging. I was in a state of shock and fear, thinking I had done something horrible to my motor. Finally the dieseling stopped.

After it stopped, I buttoned up the PCV line and restarted the engine. It made a couple more loud bangs, but finally started idling again. I took it for a drive. It stumbled a bit at first but soon cleaned up and drove fine. I even hit some high revs just to be sure.

While I think everything is OK, I guess I’m looking for some reassurance. Man, I was worried for a while! It was hard to sleep last night! I guess I’m a bit OCD about my car (welcome to the club, right?!). At first, I thought the loud banging might have been piston slap, and I started worrying about dents in the sides of my pistons, having them unbalanced, etc, etc, but I’ve changed my theory. I think the loud banging might have been a hydraulic lifter starved for oil at the low RPM’s during the dieseling.

Any thoughts as to what caused the noise? The whole scenario doesn’t sound too different from the stories of Seafoam, water injection, etc. I didn’t get the clouds of white smoke, but then again I poured it in pretty slowly. I did NOT choke off the engine with the Techron. I also did not let it soak in. I was in too much of a hurry to get back to a running engine to do that.

Any reassurances? Any ideas as to the cause and solution to the carbon build-up problem? I don’t know what is worse over the long run: frequent use of strong cleaners or frequent Italian tune-ups.

If you got this far, thanks for reading. I really appreciate it.
 
What kind of engine? TECHRON was not made for this type of concentration and the sucking/pouring through vacuum line method of engine cleaning has it's dangers too.


It doesn't sound like you ever confirmed the problem, it sounds more like an engine control problem to me.


-T
 
Is your PCV line sucking oil through and into the intake? This can add to the build up in the engine. What fuel (brand and grade)- do you use, and what grade does the manual recommend?

How many miles on your rig?
 
Have you done a compression test to confirm that you actually do have carbon in the chambers? I had a pinging problem, and always suspected carbon, until a compression test disproved me.
 
Wow, lots of responses already. Cool. But I’m still waiting for the “I’m sure your engine is fine.” message….

Let’s see:

Engine: 3.6 liter air cooled flat 6. ~275 HP. Dry Sump. Hydraulic Lifters. Two oil filters. Twin Plug. About 77,500 on it. Has a reputation for carbon build-up issues.

Change the oil: Yep. Soon. Both filters and all 12 quarts of M1. $$$

PCV Line: I thought that might be an issue myself, so I recently installed a catch can. Nothing in the catch can yet, but the filter is turning brownish, so I think it is catching oil vapor. The PCV line actually goes to the external oil tank. I think that perhaps I overfilled it after my last oil change. It might have sucked oil for a while back then, until the level dropped a bit. Perhaps I’ll remove the catch can.

Compression check: Had one done about 17k ago, during the 60k tune-up. It was good. I stuck a borescope into a plug hole about 6 months ago (the plug looked normal). The top of the piston looked dirty to me, but it is a cheap borescope and I couldn’t get a real good view. The top of the piston looked black and rough. I would expect to see a shiny smooth surface on a clean piston. I also stuck the borescope down the intake so I could see an intake valve. It looked clean.

Fuel: Shell V-Power. 91 Octane. The owner’s manual says 93 octane, but I can’t get it. On a few occasions I’ve put a few gallons of unleaded race gas in. I can feel a difference.

As T-Keith said, I think there an engine control problem is partly to blame. The ECU is known to be un-smooth at parking lot speeds. When you lift, it cuts fuel for mileage. This results in compression braking and you lurch forward in your seat. When you touch the gas again, you get pushed back. But my car was way beyond normal before I started aggressive cleaning. It’s gotten way, way better. No, I haven’t confirmed the problem, I just know that aggressive cleaning (cleaners and Italian tune-ups) make a HUGE difference. I also know that without cleaners or Italian tune-ups, the problem gets worse within 100 or 200 miles. An Italian tune-up cleans it up again.

I’m strongly considering continuous use of something like FP.
 
quote:

Originally posted by kang:
As T-Keith said, I think there an engine control problem is partly to blame. The ECU is known to be un-smooth at parking lot speeds. When you lift, it cuts fuel for mileage. This results in compression braking and you lurch forward in your seat. When you touch the gas again, you get pushed back.

The way that Ford handled this problem is by commanding the idle air bypass valve fully open when the throttle is open.

When the throttle closes, it cuts fuel as it commands the idle air bypass valve to close in a gradual manner, providing a dashpot-like function which greatly reduces lurching when lifting off the gas pedal in low gears. It only does this when the vehicle speed sensor indicates that the vehicle is moving.
 
Well, I drove the car to work this morning, and everything seemed fine. I heard a few strange noises at first, but I think that was just my overactive imagination at work. I couldn’t stretch its legs during the morning commute, but I did get some revs on a couple of occasions and power levels seem normal.

It feels pretty much the same, in terms of feathering the throttle at parking lot speeds. It’s maybe a tiny bit smoother, but certainly not enough smoother to warrant doing this again.

Brian, that’s very interesting information about the idle bypass valve. Unfortunately it would be impossible to retrofit this to my car. I wonder how your system handles feathering the throttle at low speeds, like in parking lots or whatever. Is it a drive by wire system? If so, the idle bypass valve might be able to handle the engines air requirements. If it’s not drive by wire, you could still get a lurch when you get back on the gas.

A lot of cars cut fuel when you are coasting. This is mostly for emissions and economy. If the ECU senses you are in gear, there is no throttle input, and the RPM’s are above a certain level, it cuts fuel. This works great at speed. In my car, it causes the bucking I mentioned above. I wish there were another input: vehicle speed. Have the system not cut fuel if you were below 20MPH or something.

Kcryan: Yes, a Porsche.

Phoenix: An Italian tune-up is basically a lot of high revs. This burns off carbon in the CC’s, cleans fouled plugs, etc. What I do is this: There is a hill on my way home. By the time I get there, the car is completely warmed up. I hold 5,000 to 6,000 RPM, in second, while going up this hill. The length of time and the RPM’s vary depending on how aggressive I want to get that day. Don’t do this if you have a mechanical problem, like a vacuum leak, a miss, running rich or lean, etc. Only do it if the car is otherwise sound.

Thanks everybody, for listening. I think I just needed an outlet. Like I said above, my story didn’t sound too different than the stories of people choking off their engine with Seafoam.
 
Update: After driving it a few more times, it is noticeably smoother than before. This validates my theory that cleaning does improve things, but I’ll probably stick with the in-the-tank cleaners from now on. Even if they eat some fuel hoses or nylon sock on the fuel pump or the even fuel pump itself, it’s a lot cheaper to replace those items than to rebuild an engine. That loud banging I heard while the engine was dieseling was truly scary.
 
Just wondering if the initial banging was caused by one or more of the cylinders getting hydraulically locked? Maybe the Techron pooled somewhere then dumped in at one time.
I have not seen an engine diesel due to a disconnected vacuum line, but I have had them diesel due to a too-high float level in the cab. I know - your case is different, but maybe the Techron acted as a fuel, pre-igniting with the key off and causing the dieseling.
If the Techron wound up more in one cylinder than another, it may have been borderline on locking up hydraulically - what you were hearing in that case was the piston slamming into a wall so to speak - not too good on the bearings.
I would suggest an oil analysis on the oil to see if there's anything in there that shouldn't be in there.

I hope that all is well with your engine, not trying to start a scare, but you did ask for input.
 
quote:

Originally posted by kang:
Is it a drive by wire system? If so, the idle bypass valve might be able to handle the engines air requirements. If it’s not drive by wire, you could still get a lurch when you get back on the gas.

It's not a drive-by-wire system, and if you get back on the gas quickly in low gear, it'll most definitely lurch. It mainly works to reduce lurching when you get off the gas. But I think it may work to reduce lurching when you get on the gas to a small degree..I'm not sure. Nothing has been written about the operation of the idle air control valve in terms of what the computer has it do when you apply the gas.

quote:

In my car, it causes the bucking I mentioned above. I wish there were another input: vehicle speed. Have the system not cut fuel if you were below 20MPH or something.

One of the inputs that Ford uses to determine whether to cut fuel or not is the vehicle speed. People who put newer Ford computers in their older Ford Mustangs because the newer computers work with a MAF sensor (which can handle engine modifications better than the ones using a MAP sensor) and didn't connect the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) to the new computer (because the old one didn't need those connections) found that their engine would often stall while slowing to a stop; connecting the VSS fixed this problem.

This is reportedly due to the computer not having the VSS input and not coming out of decel fuel cutoff mode as the vehicle slowed.
 
Low fuel pressure might also cause a stumbling, knocking sound at low engine speeds. A hot spot in the chamber can also behave like a carbon build up.

I have a similar problem... no stumbling but there is this ticking sound just after the upper radiator hose is hot. That's why I think it is a carbon build-up/hot spot problem. I did the water injection ceramony with all the patience throught the pcv hose which only removed the bad smell from the exhaust. Oil change the following weekend there were chunks of carbon inside the filter. They were granular but seemingly self-formed chunks inside the filter (function of oil?). Now I use a British product called Redex which seems to clean fairly well. It states it can be poured down the carburetor slowly or can be used for soaking the chambers with the plugs off, allowing to resolve, then clearing through the holes while cranking slowly. So this is the closest thing to Auto-Rx I found on this side of the world. Now I just use it regularly per-tankful basis. Will do the harsher things with it when closing to the oil change. It work really slow and gradually.

*

Peugeots here are known for their quick-lurching and owners seemingly proud with their more prompt slowing down. So on a European sports car quick fuel-cut off it probably is just the way it was designed to. Norrow roads with high spasticity curves and traffic. It is designed -I know for sure- for the vehicle's character. On much older cars it was the carburetor pumps function... It was advertised on 30's documents. Bigger the chamber it revs-down slower. Same for the deceleration valve, vacuum operation completes in about 5 seconds in my Chevrolet. US cars with ECU seems to delay more the cut-off valve for more comfortable, steadier behaviour. Geography matters.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Pablo:
change the oil

I AGREE!!!
crushedcar.gif
 
Lots more good info, thanks everybody.

Mud, at this point I doubt it was hydrolocking. The engine is running just fine, even smoother than last week. Perhaps the Techron loosened the deposits a bit and they are starting to come off faster now.

I think the dieseling was caused by a few things: A hot spot or spots, some still liquid Techron, and the extra O2 from the vacuum leak. If any one of these things didn’t exist, I don’t think it would have diesled like that.

I stuck a borescope up a plug hole this weekend, just to see if there has been an improvement since the last time I looked. There has not. The piston dome still looks dark and rough. The plug looked normal, with the exception of some white ash like deposits, probably from the Techron and maybe some Lucas UCL which I had been using the last few tanks.

Yes, I think “ikeepmychevytoo” has a point. These cars are known for not being completely smooth at slow speeds. Mine has just gotten a lot worse over the years.

Thanks again, everybody.
 
Hi Kcryan,

It’s a type 993, which is the internal designation for the last generation of the air cooled 911’s. I don’t have any pics of my car on the net, but here is another. It’s the same except for the color:

http://p-car.com/photos.htm

This link should be interesting to all BITOG readers. It details how to do an oil change on these cars:

http://p-car.com/diy/changeoil/

Enjoy!
 
quote:

Originally posted by kang:

This link should be interesting to all BITOG readers. It details how to do an oil change on these cars:

http://p-car.com/diy/changeoil/

Enjoy!


"...massage the rubber hose..."
grin.gif
◄ I liked the wording.

I will never underestimate the statement "I can change my own oil" again. This or some other service always seems to be tricky on rear engined cars, they are packed tight. But should worth the hassle, I really wonder the experience of a fine rear engined car.
cheers.gif
 
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