Cut your losses and dump that puppy. Use the proceeds to pay off the loan and start fresh. Even if you have to drive a $1,000 beater for a year, that's better then dumping money into a nearly 15 year old 200,000 mile appliance.
My 2010 Honda Accord 2.4 (w/186k mi) acts like the torque converter is failing. What do I do?
- Thread starter moblene
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Oh no, you can tell them; I always do. I meant they are in the car business and should know how to deal with it.
HAHA. Like the Tesla I bought with a spanked battery? Guess I can clean and polish it up real nice, maybe get a fresh state inspection and double my money selling it back at the auction. After all, those dealers should know how to deal with it.
Lubeguard can take quite a few miles to help. Give it 1000miles. Just be sure the fluid level is accurate.
Everytime I've told the sales team about issues with the car I was turning in they said, "OK; we will make a decision on it." They are in the business of selling cars; I am not. Years ago I turned in a C4 Corvette that leaked from the PS pump; they took it as is. Another time I helped a friend's son turn in a beater Infiniti J35. I told them I thought it was junk. They wanted to make a sale and gave him far more than it was worth by paying off his note.HAHA. Like the Tesla I bought with a spanked battery? Guess I can clean and polish it up real nice, maybe get a fresh state inspection and double my money selling it back at the auction. After all, those dealers should know how to deal with it.
OK, but a leaking PS pump is different from a dying transmission.
If I can get it functional enough to sell and get enough money to pay the loan (big if), then that's the plan. I miss having a beater tbh.
^^ This
You can also dump another Shudder fixx tube in it but give the Lubegard a few miles to work
In my experience, it may help temporarily to remove each of the four shift solenoids and carefully clean out the wire mesh screens which are likely to be clogged with clutch material debris. The solenoids are attached with 10mm bolts and are shown in the schematic below:
Here is a video that shows how to do it on the dual shift solenoid from a 2007 Honda:
Here is a video that shows how to do it on the dual shift solenoid from a 2007 Honda:
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Dealers are usually the ones doing the screwing. Nothing personal about it, it's just business.
[Although to be clear, they are apt to just flip this to someone else and screw them instead. So not really ethical. But oh so tempting.]
Try using a bottle of Lubegard red instead this time around to see if that works better.
I considered that, but I've heard mixed reviews for situations similar to mine.
I use RL D4 which meets DW1 and the old spec ZF. Swap out all of it, you’re going to need to do it 3/4 times. I’ve never had a Honda trans fail using RL, and I change out 4qts every 15-20k miles. Keepit clean, keep it Red
No fluid is going to magically rebuild the friction surfaces on his converter. About all he's going to be able to do is band-aid and limp it along until he gets rid of it or fixes it.
Now if he's got a sticky solenoid, then maybe fluid will clean it, but the damage is probably already done.
Another option is Google search JDM Importers. Get a replacement trans straight from Japan. They may even just have a torque converter. I’ve got a new engine that way. A J37. Cost me 1200 shipped from SoCal to NorCal
I've done this before. Lock up quit in a TH125C with 200,000+ miles. Disconnected it. Lost 1 MPG. Drove it for another 100k. Went to the junkyard with a trans that still worked fine.
Might be able to put a resistor in that will keep the CEL off.
