98 Civic - torque converter lockup?

[wing0]

Did a yearly ATF D&F. Car has 135k km.
Original fluid inside was a mix of Z1, DW1 and Maxlife from previous drains. Ran out of Maxlife and didn't want to put DW1 in as I heard it's quite low viscosity. So I got some Castrol IMV.

Drained about 2.2L out and added back in 6oz Lubegard Red and the rest with Castrol.

Not sure if my mind is playing tricks or not, all the shifts seem ok, but when I reach highway speed(100+km/h). I can see the torque converter lockup(rev decrease by around 300RPM).

At 110km/h, engine is running around 3000RPM, and when I apply a bit more pressure on the gas pedal, the transmission seem to disengage torque converter lockup, goes up by around 300RPM, settles back down to 3000RPM and then the car would accelerate as normal.

Is this of concern? Shouldn't the RPM stay at 3300 when the torque converter lockup disengages?

Since I am paying more attention to the tachometer, I noticed this and the feeling of the TC disengagement seems more frequent after the drain/fill.

Following is what I found on the Accord normal operation:
Proper operation: The car starts at first gear at half throttle.

When the speed reaches about 17 - 21-mph the car shifts to second gear.
When the speed reaches about 35 - 39-mph shifts to third gear.
When the speed reaches about 54 - 60-mph the car shifts to fourth gear.
When the speed reaches 60 - 65-mph or more the lock up torque converter engages. This is felt as a slight nudge. Shift sequence ends.

 

[bepperb]

I'd be more worried about the more frequent unlocking/locking than the rpm flare when it happens. Hopefully someone can comment, but I'd imagine by '98 the lockup was electronically controlled (meaning this is all in your head) but the Honda's of that vintage I've owned were all manuals.

 

[millerbl00]

Too many different fluids mixed. Do a couple of drains with maxlife and on the last one use some lubeguard platium not the Red.

 

[wing0]

Originally Posted By: bepperb
I'd be more worried about the more frequent unlocking/locking than the rpm flare when it happens. Hopefully someone can comment, but I'd imagine by '98 the lockup was electronically controlled (meaning this is all in your head) but the Honda's of that vintage I've owned were all manuals.


You're right.
I am more concern about the frequent locking/unlocking, but can really say if it's any more excessive than before.

I would've thought that Castrol IMV having closer viscosity to Z1 would work better than Maxlife this time around.

I did introduce one more variable this time with lubegard red, but I thought it's very reputable additive that should help the transmission rather than cause issues.

Or could it be that with maxlife, it was not as willingly in unlocking the torque converter when throttle input increases?

 

[wing0]

Originally Posted By: millerbl00
Too many different fluids mixed. Do a couple of drains with maxlife and on the last one use some lubeguard platium not the Red.


I can't get Maxlife anymore here. Walmart no longer carry it.

This is why I switched to Castrol IMV.

 

[wing0]

Should I disconnect the battery for 10 mins to reset the ECM?

 

[millerbl00]

If you can't find maxlife then do a couple drains with Castrol IMV with Lubeguard platium. Yes, try disconnecting battery then driving EASY for at least 50 miles to reset. But I would find and use the maxlife.

 

[wing0]

Also no lubegard up here

I bought lubegard red and IMV on my last visit to US.

IMV in US is around $5/qt while it's $9-$10/qt in Canada.
Sometimes I wish I live down south.

I heard IMV softens the shift compared to maxlife and then lubegard red features:
- Softens and modifies harsh shifts making them quicker in duration
- Provides for smoother shifting

Maybe the tranny is shifting really softly now hence I noticed all these things.

 

[The_Eric]

Normal. No torque converter is 100% efficient- they all slip some, that's why there is a lock up clutch. It should unlock under light acceleration and lock up once throttle and load even out. You can also unlock it by pressing on the brake pedal just enough to light the brake light too.

 

[millerbl00]

There is a big difference between lubeguard red and lubeguard platium. I would use the lubeguard platium.

 

[wing0]

Originally Posted By: millerbl00
There is a big difference between lubeguard red and lubeguard platium. I would use the lubeguard platium.


Thanks for the info.
Not much I can do for now.

I will reset the ECM and see if it makes any difference.