Noxudol 700

[matrass]

Hello and good evening everybody .

Have seen posts of people using Noxudol 700 for inside the frames , doors and other cavities.

Has anybody used it outside of those areas like on unpainted control arms, differentials , uncoated bolts etc ?

Thanks for any experience you may have had with it .

 

[Zenon]

Works like fluid film on steroids; oily for a couple of weeks, then it becomes soft wax.
Once cured it's not easy to wash off like other rust-proofing oils.

 

[Zenon]

Yes, I have it sprayed on rear diff and all sorts of galvanized bolts in my Subaru Outback.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

You can use it anything you'd use any other rustproofing product on

 

[matrass]

Thanks for the confirmation on using the product other than just cavities.

Just heard some much about it being used in one type application, nice to know its versatlie .

 

[AdmiralYoda]

Noxudol 700 is more for cavities and interior bits and pieces that do not see splashing water or normal wear and tear. This is for areas that are hidden away. It is soft and "runny" and will wash off if used on exposed areas.

Noxudol 300 is the version meant to be in contact with environmental conditions. Use this on everything else that gets exposed. Its harder and stickier so think of it as an undercoater that is a rust proofing preventative.

 

[Donald]

The shop that sprays Noxdul sprays does Noxdul 900 on the undercarriage and Noxdul 750 in the cavities.

Is the Noxdul more or less a permanent treatment? No annual touchups?

 

[Zenon]

You would like to use a 700/300 combo.
750/900 is solvent-based and dries much quicker; 900 contains bitumen.

700/300 are very durable coatings, they are long-lasting. All you need is a light touch-up once every year, maybe in two years, only in areas blasted by road debris.

 

[Donald]

Yh

You would like to use a 700/300 combo.
750/900 is solvent-based and dries much quicker; 900 contains bitumen.

700/300 are very durable coatings, they are long-lasting. All you need is a light touch-up once every year, maybe in two years, only in areas blasted by road debris.

I would assume the wax like coating of Noxudol last longer than the oil based products most people are familiar with. But the oil based products only suggest a touchup or re-spray every year. Noxudol seems similar.

 

[Zenon]

Actually, it is more durable than other oil-based products.
There is no paint or wax coating that withstands constant sand or rock blasting.
I tried many rustproofing products over a period of more than 10 years. Noxudol 700/300 is by far the best that I have tried!

 

[Donald]

Actually, it is more durable than other oil-based products.
There is no paint or wax coating that withstands constant sand or rock blasting.
I tried many rustproofing products over a period of more than 10 years. Noxudol 700/300 is by far the best that I have tried!

The question. Is I have many years of NH Coatings sprayed on my F250. There is a guy in DE about 45 minutes away but a Noxudol location is much farther away. Unsure how good a job I could do on ramps.

The question is how much do I need to do to clean off the old NH Coating.

 

[Zenon]

The question. Is I have many years of NH Coatings sprayed on my F250. There is a guy in DE about 45 minutes away but a Noxudol location is much farther away. Unsure how good a job I could do on ramps.

The question is how much do I need to do to clean off the old NH Coating.

I sprayed noxudol 700/300 over fluid film on my 17 year old Honda Accord. First step is to pressure washing sand, rust flakes and other loose stuff. Apply Noxudol 700 to rusty parts, then cover it with 300 after couple of days.
700 is highly penetrating. 300 cures in to hard wax.

 

[Donald]

I sprayed noxudol 700/300 over fluid film on my 17 year old Honda Accord. First step is to pressure washing sand, rust flakes and other loose stuff. Apply Noxudol 700 to rusty parts, then cover it with 300 after couple of days.
700 is highly penetrating. 300 cures in to hard wax.

Are you doing this on ramps or a lift?

 

[Zenon]

I'm rust-proofing all my cars on ramps. First rose from the front than the back. Next, remove the wheels and linings from the wheel wells.
I use a lot of aluminum foil to cover the brake rotors and the exhaust system.
A lift would be much more comfortable, especially when you're pulling down plastic shields, etc.

 

[Donald]

I'm rust-proofing all my cars on ramps. First rose from the front than the back. Next, remove the wheels and linings from the wheel wells.
I use a lot of aluminum foil to cover the brake rotors and the exhaust system.
A lift would be much more comfortable, especially when you're pulling down plastic shields, etc.

I was told of a friend of a friend with a lift maybe I can use. Toss him a C note. But I have ramps and may start there at least pressure washing. I have several layers of NH Coatings with stuck on dirt to get off. Not sure the guy with a lift would appreciate all that crap on the garage floor.

 

[mattd]

Yh
I would assume the wax like coating of Noxudol last longer than the oil based products most people are familiar with. But the oil based products only suggest a touchup or re-spray every year. Noxudol seems similar.

Skip the 750/900. 300/700 is a much better product. I would call the 300 a softish wax when cured.

I sprayed my truck 3+ years ago and it’s still there after 3 New England winters

 

[Donald]

Skip the 750/900. 300/700 is a much better product. I would call the 300 a softish wax when cured.

I sprayed my truck 3+ years ago and it’s still there after 3 New England winters

My F250 was sprayed by a shop several years ago with CarWell. Then after that NH Coatings as the shop was much much closer.

The shop that did the CarWell takes apart things like tail lights and drills holes in doors to push their wand into the holes.

So does the stuff in the cavities every need to be redone? I mean there is no road spray or anything else happening in those areas.

 

[mattd]

My F250 was sprayed by a shop several years ago with CarWell. Then after that NH Coatings as the shop was much much closer.

The shop that did the CarWell takes apart things like tail lights and drills holes in doors to push their wand into the holes.

So does the stuff in the cavities ever need to be redone? I mean there is no road spray or anything else happening in those areas.

Noxudol won’t stick to an oily surface. If there’s anything left in those cavities I’d wash it out as best as possible

 

[AdmiralYoda]

@Donald I don't think you are ever going to get the NH Coating off enough to start fresh with a different type of formulation. I'm not certain what the base product is that NH Coatings uses but I'd want a similar type of coating if going the DIY route.

You'd need to pressure wash, scrub, use a bunch of degreasing chemicals/solvents, etc. You are going to create an oil slick on the floor if you do this in a garage. It will be a nasty job, I've been there. Plan on having a rubber squeegee to push the water out of the garage constantly. Then plan on washing the floors and driveway with soap when your done to clean things up.

I vote just take it to a local car wash and spray the underside as best as you can. Put it up on ramps and clean/degrease the areas by hand that still bother you. Let it dry and put a coating on that is compatible with the NH Coating stuff.

Use the Noxudol 700 in the cavities like inner fender cavities, engine bay nooks-and-crannies, inner door panels, rocker panels, etc.

 

[Donald]

@Donald I don't think you are ever going to get the NH Coating off enough to start fresh with a different type of formulation. I'm not certain what the base product is that NH Coatings uses but I'd want a similar type of coating if going the DIY route.

You'd need to pressure wash, scrub, use a bunch of degreasing chemicals/solvents, etc. You are going to create an oil slick on the floor if you do this in a garage. It will be a nasty job, I've been there. Plan on having a rubber squeegee to push the water out of the garage constantly. Then plan on washing the floors and driveway with soap when your done to clean things up.

I vote just take it to a local car wash and spray the underside as best as you can. Put it up on ramps and clean/degrease the areas by hand that still bother you. Let it dry and put a coating on that is compatible with the NH Coating stuff.

Use the Noxudol 700 in the cavities like inner fender cavities, engine bay nooks-and-crannies, inner door panels, rocker panels, etc.

Maybe I just continue on with NH Coatings for my pickup. Seems easier.

I can try Noxudol on my wife's 2021 Crosstrek that has not been treated with a anything.