I am not convinced this is a better mousetrap lots of dissatisfied purchasers at Home Depot.
Notes from installing a Kohler Gleam toilet
- Thread starter GON
- Start date
Clearly for the toilet seat warmer.Nice discussion, but I am more intrigued about the oddly located electric receptacle behind the toilet. Needs to be a GFCI in case the pooch decides to get a drink or the grand kids are flushing their stuffed toys.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
I read the reviews and other Kohler toilet reviews. Same complaints about almost any Kohler toilet. They all same to have a rating above 4 and under 4.5
Over the summer I installed a chair height elongated toilet to replace the standard size and height one that had been installed when the house was built sometime around 2000. I wasn’t really looking to buy a new toilet but the old one had begun leaking at the floor. I figured since I had to unbolt and remove it to fix the leak I might as well install one of the tall ones so it will be easier to get up when we’re really old.
The flange is quite low and the floor is warped, so the wax ring leaked. I tried to tighten it and snapped the plastic flange so I had to remove it again and install one of those metal flange repair rings. I’m of the opinion that if I ever replace one of the other toilets I’m just going to install the metal reinforcement regardless, because it allows you to not have to worry about the bolt heads pulling through the plastic.
I can’t remember if the new one is a Kohler or Moen but I can tell you it has never needed a second flush. It practically blasts the solids down the drain!
The flange is quite low and the floor is warped, so the wax ring leaked. I tried to tighten it and snapped the plastic flange so I had to remove it again and install one of those metal flange repair rings. I’m of the opinion that if I ever replace one of the other toilets I’m just going to install the metal reinforcement regardless, because it allows you to not have to worry about the bolt heads pulling through the plastic.
I can’t remember if the new one is a Kohler or Moen but I can tell you it has never needed a second flush. It practically blasts the solids down the drain!
I have the same toilet. Definitely a peculiar install method. Doesn't do the greatest job with solids, though.
I would highly recommend replacing the shut-off valve with a quarter turn.
I would highly recommend replacing the shut-off valve with a quarter turn.
Sorry, it is not a o-ring but a diaphragm that seal the toilet to the horn. The diaphragm can be seen on top of the horn in the third pic.
It has not been brought up yet but the plastic horn allows the same toilet to be used no matter the rough-in, whether it is 10,12 or 14 inch. The horn gets picked to match the rough-in.
It has not been brought up yet but the plastic horn allows the same toilet to be used no matter the rough-in, whether it is 10,12 or 14 inch. The horn gets picked to match the rough-in.
Some put an outlet there for a bidet seat. really the outlet is in the wrong place it should be on the right side, about 6 inches from center and 10'' from the floor.Nice discussion, but I am more intrigued about the oddly located electric receptacle behind the toilet. Needs to be a GFCI in case the pooch decides to get a drink or the grand kids are flushing their stuffed toys.
The tee i brought up earlier that I advised deleting was for said bidet seat.
Speaking of bidet seats, some like them, and some do not. I do not like water being sprayed all over my backside, but I am weird. They used to be about $1300 bucks.
They are very good and common. I have had many with bad fill valves right out of the box. I would say 20 out of 500, which is alot.
Come on, guys ! That's too much info !
You realize it's very common to daisy-chain GFCI outlets ? Our house has (3) bathrooms and (1) GFCI but ALL of the outlets in our bathrooms are protected.
The mechanical attachment is unimportant. The toilet should be shimmed to eliminate any wobble and then caulked to the floor.
The drain pipe and the toilet drain flange is not designed to handle the stresses of holding the toilet down. Toilets get bumped often.
Okay so I'll ask the Eternal question is it a solid strong flush, one time two clear all the material or is it a double flusher to conserve water by flushing it to or more times? Also is the toilet seat a fast Closing one or does it close slowly if you let it just fall.
I'm really tired of these Energy Water conserving toilets that you have to flush three times just to get the material down and possibly cause a clog.
Also I will add the diameter of that hole does not seem very big. People around this house often ball things up and try to flush them that would be a cork just waiting to happen. I do like the streamlined base for ease of cleaning which is really nice then to fiddle around with all those nuts down at the base on the old style.
I'm really tired of these Energy Water conserving toilets that you have to flush three times just to get the material down and possibly cause a clog.
Also I will add the diameter of that hole does not seem very big. People around this house often ball things up and try to flush them that would be a cork just waiting to happen. I do like the streamlined base for ease of cleaning which is really nice then to fiddle around with all those nuts down at the base on the old style.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
The toilet is a water saving (I think identified as a 1.2 gallon) flush. The limited testing shows one flush clears the solid.
The toilet seat was a slow close, but was plastic. I installed a slow close Bemis wood seat, but doesn't match so well with the toielt, I may change to another soft close wood seat at a later time. The install hardware for this Bemis was poor quality, the seat was purchased from Home Depot. Prior, I had purchased two wood Bemis seats from Wal Mart- the Wal Mart seats came with significantly better mounting hardware. Walmart recently dropped Bemis seats from their retail stores.
Like you, I was not expected the black tube to be so small. Only time will tell.
Thanks for that info that helps a lot I am in the toilet market right now and will be making a Home Depot run I need to take some measurements first. As I do want to have a higher seat style toilet not one of these small low 1964 bucket type toilets. So a little measuring and a visit to the depot they have a fairly big toilet section where I live here in SoCal! And I should mention the prices are fairly high as well! The days of $75 toilets seem to have long gone.
Thanks again
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Home Depot has sizing charts on display in front of every toilet they have at the retail store- super easy to compare sizes at one time.
Prior to this Gleam, I was installing Kohler Cimarron toilets which worked well. I thought the Gleam was a bit easier to install.
No silicone around the bowl?
I thought he was talking about the integrity of the subfloor after having a leak for a while. Plywood delaminates, and gets “punky”.
I didn’t think he was suggesting leaving the bolts out.
I really don't know how you got that out of what I wrote.
I said i didn't think i felt good about the plastic horn attached to the toilet flange and then metal brackets attaching the toilet to the horn.
(note id be better with it if there was some sort of metal insert or sleeve in the horn.)
Others said the mechanical attachment was unimportant.
I said leave the bolts out and let me know if you still feel that way.
I will say it - the mechanical attachment is unimportant. The toilet should be secured to the floor with caulk and not depend on the flimsy brackets to secure it in place.
Old toilets had four mounting bolts, two to secure the flange to the toilet and two to secure the toilet to the floor. Once the two out of four bolts were eliminated, caulking became the only means to ensure the toilet did not move when bumped.
