Notchy 3rd Gear Engagement in 2024 Elantra N

[john_pifer]

I bought my 2024 Hyundai Elantra N new in July 2024 and it now has over 19,000 miles. Since new, I've noticed notchy engagement into 3rd gear, especially when cold, but not usually at lower RPM.

The issue is with engaging 3rd gear only, and the notchy engagement is sort of sporadic; I've tried all manner of adjustment of my technique, and about 40-50% of the time, I can get it to go in smooth, but, the other times, there's a "catch", and even after a year, I haven't been able to figure out a technique to avoid the "catch" consistently. All other gears are great.

Someone recommended that I use Redline MTL (75W80) which would be a bit thicker than the factory fill, which is a GL-4 SAE-70. He said he's actually using 50/50 MTL (75W80) and MT-85 (75W85) in his Elantra N due to the fact that he's in southern Arizona where it's hot. He suggested to just use the 75W80 if I'm in an area where I get an actual winter (which, in Middle Tennessee, we do). He said he noticed an immediate improvement when he went to the Redline MTF.

I'm wondering whether to just try Redline's MT-LV 70W/75W, which meets the GL-4 SAE-70 spec called for by the Elantra N, and see if that makes any difference, or just go with the thicker MTL 75W80 stuff right off the bat.

Would there be any harm that could come from using a slightly thicker MTF? Is the LV (I'm assuming this stands for low viscosity) spec just to try to improve economy?

I've also emailed both Redline and HPL to ask for their recommendations (though, looking at HPL's site, I don't see any GL-4 MTF advertised).

In any case, the Redline is not that expensive, at $23/qt from their website (I haven't shopped around to see if available anywhere else for less), and the car only takes 2 quarts. So if it didn't work out, I could always just swap it out.

What do y'all recommend? Anyone had success in smoothing out notchy gear engagement in a manual?

 

[FatOrangeCat]

Since you are under warranty, can you take it into the dealer and see if there are any tsb's for this issue? Get it documented in case the issue gets worse.

 

[14Accent]

I wouldn't hesitate to use HPL's stuff. It's excellent oil, and I'm sure they'll get back to you shortly with a recommendation.

My previous vehicle was a 2012 Buick Regal GS with the infamous GM "F40" 6-speed transmission, a unit KNOWN for it's notchiness especially when cold. It always shifted just "ok", oddly enough my 2-3 shift (into 3rd) was always the worst offender. After switching to HPL MTL CC, 95% of the issue was resolved. Only on COLD (think... well below 0) did the notchiness return, and even then it was only for the first dozen shifts or so until the fluid warmed up. In that environment, I think any MT would be unhappy.

 

[john_pifer]

Since you are under warranty, can you take it into the dealer and see if there are any tsb's for this issue? Get it documented in case the issue gets worse.

Well, I don’t want anybody but myself working on it if possible. And so far it doesn’t rise to the level of me taking it in.

I may call and talk to an advisor and see if there is a TSB.

I’ll switch it to a different fluid and see if that makes a difference.

 

[john_pifer]

@High Performance Lubricants

Would you have a recommendation?

 

[haggler]

I'd recommend Redline. When I had my '19 Miata I changed the fluid at only 8k miles for their mt-90 75w90, the manual specs 75w90 gl4. I had similar problems with gear changes I can't remember which ones but there was a bit of nibble unless the transmission was nice and hot from aggressive driving. I also think the factory fluid was underfilled. Id go with what redline spece see how it goes. Id bet it will fix your issue. My miata only had 8k miles and it was a night and day difference. Much more enjoyable and always butter. I just ordered some redline d4 to put in my Camaro because the cold performance isn't great with the stock dex3. And this is already a super noisy manual.
Also Amazon (shipped and sold by) carries Redline, and sometimes u can find it on sale.

 

[High Performance Lubricants]

This may be an application for a non corrosive GL-5. It would be worth seeing if the extra additives give you the results you are looking for

 

[Sequoiasoon]

Way back Hyundai had a TSB for the Genesis to use Pentosin (I think MTF 2) in Canada and others. BMW was using the same. When cold it was impossible to get into 2nd gear at the time. My Sonata had the same issue so I switched to that and it was better, not great but better.

I had first tried BG Synchroshift II as it totally fixed my light grind in my Corolla. Consensus then was that the other thicker synthetic fluids I had tried put too much drag on the synchro's and slowed them down to fast. The BG in my Sonata was better than the factory, not as good as Pentosin.

@MolaKule has a thread where he lists all the viscosities of all the different MTF's. You might need to try 1-2 different ones to find what works for you.

In my Accord I tried a couple different ones. Currently a mix of Pentosin and Ravenol, seems fine to me at all times currently. It will be probably 25k before I swap again. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/post-your-latest-transmission-lubricant-change.150620/post-6752781

Random thought as I know I had issue on Sonata and some had on Accords. Pressure bleed the clutch system to get new fluid into it.

Side note: The MT in my '07 Sonata was one of the worst I had in a long time. A lot was how the clutch engaged with revs held from dual mass clutch or flywheel whichever it was. I have been driving MT since early '80's, I would still randomly stall the Sonata for no reason other than clutch engagement.

 

[john_pifer]

This may be an application for a non corrosive GL-5. It would be worth seeing if the extra additives give you the results you are looking for

It seems that HPL has many different MTFs. Would you have a more specific recommendation?

 

[john_pifer]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I ended up ordering the Red Line MTL (75W80), largely due to the experience of a guy who posted on a couple of Elantra N groups I follow. He said that the shifting improved immediately and dramatically on his Elantra N when he switched to this fluid.

Hyundai calls for an SAE70, so this is a bit higher in viscosity.

We’ll see. It’s only costing me about $46, so not too hard to change to something else if I don’t like it.

 

[f355spider]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I ended up ordering the Red Line MTL (75W80), largely due to the experience of a guy who posted on a couple of Elantra N groups I follow. He said that the shifting improved immediately and dramatically on his Elantra N when he switched to this fluid.

Hyundai calls for an SAE70, so this is a bit higher in viscosity.

We’ll see. It’s only costing me about $46, so not too hard to change to something else if I don’t like it.

MTL is more synchro friendly (no slip lube for limited slip differential), so I can see where it could help with shifting. Don't hesitate to call the Redline tech support line, I have found them to be extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

 

[john_pifer]

MTL is more synchro friendly (no slip lube for limited slip differential), so I can see where it could help with shifting. Don't hesitate to call the Redline tech support line, I have found them to be extremely knowledgeable and helpful.

I actually emailed them and the recommendation was the Red Line MT-LV, their newer low viscosity formulation, which is closer to the OEM Hyundai 70W fluid.

I went against their recommendation because I thought it wouldn’t make enough of a difference from the factory fluid, especially in this current summer season in which we’ll have 4 more months of very warm temps.

Of course, in making that decision, I’m going off the hypothesis that a thicker fluid will improve that notchy 2-3 gear change and occasional “nibble”.

Then there’s also the fellow Elantra N owner who said the MTL 75W80 immediately improved his car’s shifting.

I will say, this car has a far better shifting gearbox than my old 2016 Subaru WRX.

We’ll see.

I’ve received the oil and will probably swap it in next week.

I’m also going to have a UOA done on the EN’s engine oil, as it has over 5000 miles on the current M1 ESP 0W-30, and I need to change that too while I’m at it.

 

[chexxers]

for me in Pa weather in my 2001 TT 6 spd manual + traded 5spd 01 Jetta Redlnes MT 90 works great. the jetta syncros wore quickly + barely could get into second BUT the MT-90 worked until just under 100 thou until i could NOT get into second + VW would NOT honor the 100 thou warranty on 2001 models because i had a QUAIFE installed, by a vw-porsche-audi dealer!!!

 

[f355spider]

I actually emailed them and the recommendation was the Red Line MT-LV, their newer low viscosity formulation, which is closer to the OEM Hyundai 70W fluid.

I went against their recommendation because I thought it wouldn’t make enough of a difference from the factory fluid, especially in this current summer season in which we’ll have 4 more months of very warm temps.

Of course, in making that decision, I’m going off the hypothesis that a thicker fluid will improve that notchy 2-3 gear change and occasional “nibble”.

Then there’s also the fellow Elantra N owner who said the MTL 75W80 immediately improved his car’s shifting.

I will say, this car has a far better shifting gearbox than my old 2016 Subaru WRX.

We’ll see.

I’ve received the oil and will probably swap it in next week.

I’m also going to have a UOA done on the EN’s engine oil, as it has over 5000 miles on the current M1 ESP 0W-30, and I need to change that too while I’m at it.

Usually the problem with engagement is the synchros...due to the fluid being too slippery...usually from additives for limited slip differentials. MTL does not have any slip additive, so it is popular for cars with shifting issues.

 

[KrisZ]

Try double clutching when going into third and see if that makes any difference. If it does, your synchronizer is probably defective.

 

[haggler]

I just changed to Redline D4, which in my case is ATF but that's what this TREMEC takes. Night and day difference. Hope it helps.