Not familiar with car sales tactics from this era, enlighten me please.
- Thread starter R18Civic
- Start date
What is wrong with the current Honda? someone on here has one with 666k on the clock. He's got a bad cam, and the motor drinks oil; I guess mine with a bad cam but minor oil usage is better?
Never want to buy a car when in a pinch but maybe it's better to save up for now and be ready for later? I feel like there has been a bit of a softening in the used car market--not huge, but just a bit--and I wonder if things might be better in a bit. Not great as I think the glory days are gone now. But who knows what might pop up between now and some time in the future.
I'm still holding out for a unicorn myself.
Never want to buy a car when in a pinch but maybe it's better to save up for now and be ready for later? I feel like there has been a bit of a softening in the used car market--not huge, but just a bit--and I wonder if things might be better in a bit. Not great as I think the glory days are gone now. But who knows what might pop up between now and some time in the future.
I'm still holding out for a unicorn myself.
I didn't read the entire thread, but are there any issues with the Honda you apparently currently have? Assuming by your Username it's a 2018 Civic. What is the infatuation with a similar year Malibu?
If reliability is the concern, I'd rather take my chances with a Civic.
As for Insurance, of course it varies by location, what's covered and policy limits, age, credit score, driving record, claims history, whether they also insure your home, and multi vehicle discounts. But all your quotes sound high to me.
If reliability is the concern, I'd rather take my chances with a Civic.
As for Insurance, of course it varies by location, what's covered and policy limits, age, credit score, driving record, claims history, whether they also insure your home, and multi vehicle discounts. But all your quotes sound high to me.
The Honda is mechanically sound other than an occasional problems. Sometimes when going uphill with cruise control on it fights to select the proper gear. The transmission will upshift then downshift for the entire time it goes uphill.
Good news is I don't give up easily so I found a good dealership here in town that has a 2019 malibu with 69k on it clock. They've been contacting me for the last 2 weeks trying to get me to come in.
Gathered up the guts to speak with them, told them what the other dealership did and the women informed me that she used to work with autistic children and they would go into a tailspin if they got too stressed or experienced sensory overload. She assured me they use a no pressure approach and their online reviews reflect that.
Good news is I don't give up easily so I found a good dealership here in town that has a 2019 malibu with 69k on it clock. They've been contacting me for the last 2 weeks trying to get me to come in.
Gathered up the guts to speak with them, told them what the other dealership did and the women informed me that she used to work with autistic children and they would go into a tailspin if they got too stressed or experienced sensory overload. She assured me they use a no pressure approach and their online reviews reflect that.
So for a full story/recap;
You're selling a civic that runs fine, for a Malibu. APR is 9%+, which imo is still crazy high. I was just under 700 and still got a 4%.
You seem pretty set on a Malibu. Is it just because youre getting tired of the civic?
Honestly you should have worked out the math of the car you want before you go in, including insurance and maintenance to shorten your visit at the dealership.
You're selling a civic that runs fine, for a Malibu. APR is 9%+, which imo is still crazy high. I was just under 700 and still got a 4%.
You seem pretty set on a Malibu. Is it just because youre getting tired of the civic?
Honestly you should have worked out the math of the car you want before you go in, including insurance and maintenance to shorten your visit at the dealership.
APR was 9% with Carvana, The dealership I'm going to tomorrow is in my CU's network.
They'll explain everything to me tomorrow, they have assured me. But the gear fluttering problem with the Civic has me worried there are bigger repairs to be had on the horizon. I'd rather get rid of it before the transmission goes, Had that happen in my Buick and it isn't a cheap repair.
Unless you are buying new with a warranty, you are taking a risk buying used also, especially a GM product that is 6+ years old. At 69K miles, you are pretty much on the cusp of where people start to off load a vehicle before they have to invest in major routine service. I would not go into buying a vehicle like that without document service proof or knowing I will have to get that done after delivery on my dime.
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Sounds like hunting? I've had that with my Toyota's and they were in prime/perfect shape. I've hated their cruise ever since. It has a bit of lag in responding, so it overcorrects, then overshoots, then ... lather rinse repeat.
You could swap plugs, maybe it has a worn one and isn't making quite the power it should be. That or just don't use cruise in the hills--that's how I "fixed" my Toyota's.
If it's shifting fine the rest of the time, this would be amongst the least of my reasons to trade. I'd rather have the devil I know than the one I don't. *insert anti-GM comment here*
I also don't think that the person I got the car from ever changed transmission fluid, at least they don't remember doing it. And it's about to hit 185k. Just seems like a recipe for a transmission breakdown. I also want something with lower miles that will last me 8-10 years.
Hrm. Tough one. Didn't catch what year. IMO, and just that, I'd rather change the fluid and hope for the best. If you want to fan the flames of FUD, maybe ask around for the cost of a trans replacement for your Civic. If it's not too bad, and if you like the car, just sit on that amount in your emergency fund (if not more!). I'm rather anti-GM--but rather pro-Toyota, sorry Honda isn't my favorite--but usually keeping what you have (and have paid off) is the cheaper option.
Now if you had rust holes, and four other issues you were ignoring, different story. If you can't deal with a 2 week downtime due to sudden breakage, perhaps time to trade--but again, buying a 5+ year old car does not mean "it won't have issues for another 5".
If I was you--and I'm not--I'd keep an eye out for a spare car. Keep what you have. Buy a spare when it's cheap and available. Or when a great deal comes along and then this Honda can become your spare. Then you never have to make decision "under the gun". If you are N+1 then suddenly are at N, you can be rather slow at getting back to N+1.
I did similar. If you have multiple dealers within 50-100 miles, play them against each other over text or email.I spent the last 4 months searching for a deal on a new F150. Here's what worked in the end:
Find advertised specials, email the internet sales manager with MY distinct offer and terms. Terms in this case include the vehicle condition and options are as expected, as are the dealer fees and charges I agree to.
They will provide a quote. If it's agreeable, go in and buy the vehicle.
I used Greenway Ford in Orlando. I purchased my new F150 in less than an hour, no sales pressure, no nonsense. Just nearly $12K off of MSRP and the 'dealer installed' options remain on the truck. Easiest vehicle purchase I've ever done!
TLDR: Walking in to a dealer is a sure-fire way to get ripped off.
My new truck is a 2024 F150 Lariat, 5.0 V8 with the 3.73 differential, ventilated seats, origami tailgate, plastic bed liner, wheel well liners. Exactly what I wanted, and it's turned out to be every bit as good as expected!
Dealers just plain suck now days. I tried writing a check back in 21 during Covid and it wasn’t worth it compared to 0.9% financing. I just replaced my wife’s 18 with a 24 and interest rates were 3.9 through nmac. The worst part is dealing with finance and their insane pressure on extended warranties. When I was signing paper work for her 24, the guy pissed me off so bad I walked out and the general sales manager came to my home to have me personally sign. He threw in all weather mats and brought me a half dozen filters. I kid you not, it was the worst experience I ever had.my advice is to tell the finance person that your going to trade in for new every 2 yrs, even if that’s a lie.
We never use cruise control but I tested it out and my 2005 RAV4 had trouble with the upshifting and downshifting when using cruise control. I took to a dealer at 35,000 miles and they said they were unable to recreate the issue, so nothing was ever done. The tranny was never serviced until about 250k miles with a couple quarts of ATF replaced. The tranny finally died at 399k miles.
ALWAYS TAKE A KNOWLEDGEABLE PERSON WITH YOU TO DEALERS. Ops caps on. Sorry. Ed
Yea there are various websites that represent garbage insurance companies.
Even if this new dealer states your credit union is in their network of credit unions they use, they can still mark up the interest rate on you. They will buy the loan at 7.00% and sell it to you at 9.00%. This is legal for them to do that.
This dealer was very straight forward and friendly. I test drove the car - has scratches all over it (previous owners had 5 kids) and it smells like diapers but they assured me they would detail it. They also knocked a small amount off for the scratches. I also got the rubber band effect from the CVT but it wasn't terrible, only under heavy throttle.
20k, 205 a month for 72 months. I'm going back Monday to put a down payment on it and finalize the contract.
20k, 205 a month for 72 months. I'm going back Monday to put a down payment on it and finalize the contract.
That sounds like every naturally aspirated small displacement engine, when asked to maintain a set speed on the highway. The RPM is low for good fuel economy on level ground. Then you encounter an uphill grade, and the engine has to rev up to a higher RPM where it produces enough power to maintain the set speed.
Then it tries to upshift back into high gear, but nope, not enough power at that lower RPM to maintain speed, so the transmission downshifts again. Repeat until you take it off cruise control, or the road levels out.
I'd say it's working as intended.
So you're buying an 6 year old GM with the idea of getting another 8 - 10 years out of it. I suggest you give your head a shake. If you were buying a new one you might get 8 - 10 years out of it. A Malibu isn't even a particularly reliable GM. I wouldn't do it.
Buying an 6 year old Honda or Toyota with the idea of getting another 8 - 10 years out of it. Sure, that should work out.
Getting 8 - 10 years more out of your Honda? Might be possible, as long as it isn't rusty. I'd put some of that money aside for a big repair ($2500 maybe) and go for it.
Buying an 6 year old Honda or Toyota with the idea of getting another 8 - 10 years out of it. Sure, that should work out.
Getting 8 - 10 years more out of your Honda? Might be possible, as long as it isn't rusty. I'd put some of that money aside for a big repair ($2500 maybe) and go for it.
