Selling Car, have questions
- Thread starter MONKEYMAN
- Start date
- Status
Supervising or conducting a sales or registration transaction is not a service offered by either Kansas or Missouri AAA.
Are they replacing a car? In most states the plates from the car they are replacing can be run for a week or two with the bill of sale in hand. If not the buyer ought to be able to get a temporary
cardboard plate from their own DMV. In my state, insurance companies will give a grace period on the buyer's need to notify them of a new vehicle, so long as you don't dump a Yugo and buy a new Porsche and then crack it up.
cardboard plate from their own DMV. In my state, insurance companies will give a grace period on the buyer's need to notify them of a new vehicle, so long as you don't dump a Yugo and buy a new Porsche and then crack it up.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Are they replacing a car? In most states the plates from the car they are replacing can be run for a week or two with the bill of sale in hand. If not the buyer ought to be able to get a temporary
cardboard plate from their own DMV. In my state, insurance companies will give a grace period on the buyer's need to notify them of a new vehicle, so long as you don't dump a Yugo and buy a new Porsche and then crack it up.
From what has been said so far, it sounds like the purchaser is expanding his fleet and has no extra plate to use. He can get a temp tag after the title has been authenticated by the seller, but not after noon Sat or on Sun at all (Mo DMV registration offices are all closed). He cannot get a temp tag in Missouri beforehand, because the sale has not been completed and title authenticated by seller, which complicates long distance sales.
In Missouri, insurance companies provide a 30 day grace period of coverage in these cases.
Are they replacing a car? In most states the plates from the car they are replacing can be run for a week or two with the bill of sale in hand. If not the buyer ought to be able to get a temporary
cardboard plate from their own DMV. In my state, insurance companies will give a grace period on the buyer's need to notify them of a new vehicle, so long as you don't dump a Yugo and buy a new Porsche and then crack it up.
From what has been said so far, it sounds like the purchaser is expanding his fleet and has no extra plate to use. He can get a temp tag after the title has been authenticated by the seller, but not after noon Sat or on Sun at all (Mo DMV registration offices are all closed). He cannot get a temp tag in Missouri beforehand, because the sale has not been completed and title authenticated by seller, which complicates long distance sales.
In Missouri, insurance companies provide a 30 day grace period of coverage in these cases.
If you said $250 for the car, that a cash deal. I wouldn't take the chance and what a fraudulent cashier check or money order would look like. Write down other info, like the license plate and type of car he shows up in. In case you need that info.
Great info!
Yes, it will be cash deal. I will talk to seller to make sure they understand that.
Thanks for clarifying AAA.
JayhawkRoy, great summary! Spot on. Nice to know insurance rules.
I am a caretaker of a house and have been told I need to get rid of the other stuff associated with the Saturn by Sunday. So I will looking for a Win, Win, Win situation. Buyer gets a good deal. I get rid of car and other items I don't need. Landord is happy with the cleaned out garage.
I already gave the seller my address. Even if I did the transaction somewhere else he knows where to find me. It is supposed to happen around 10 am. At least it will be in daylight.
Yes, it will be cash deal. I will talk to seller to make sure they understand that.
Thanks for clarifying AAA.
JayhawkRoy, great summary! Spot on. Nice to know insurance rules.
I am a caretaker of a house and have been told I need to get rid of the other stuff associated with the Saturn by Sunday. So I will looking for a Win, Win, Win situation. Buyer gets a good deal. I get rid of car and other items I don't need. Landord is happy with the cleaned out garage.
I already gave the seller my address. Even if I did the transaction somewhere else he knows where to find me. It is supposed to happen around 10 am. At least it will be in daylight.
Originally Posted By: JayhawkRoy
Supervising or conducting a sales or registration transaction is not a service offered by either Kansas or Missouri AAA.
I was not aware of that. So they don't offer registration or tag service, which is all that is needed here? They do in PA, I didn't realize it wasn't universal. That's a shame, its a real convenience. There are other tag service sores in PA too, but hey're more expensive. Are there no tag service places in Missouri at all?
Supervising or conducting a sales or registration transaction is not a service offered by either Kansas or Missouri AAA.
I was not aware of that. So they don't offer registration or tag service, which is all that is needed here? They do in PA, I didn't realize it wasn't universal. That's a shame, its a real convenience. There are other tag service sores in PA too, but hey're more expensive. Are there no tag service places in Missouri at all?
I'm kind of street smart. Since the price is so low, if he tries any kind hijinks I'd probably abort the sale. One thing he may try to do is short you on the price when he shows up by walking around the car and nitpicking it. Don't fall for it. Simply state it's an x year old car for a cheap price that runs. Any lower and you'll take it to have it scrapped.
Originally Posted By: dlayman
Originally Posted By: JayhawkRoy
Supervising or conducting a sales or registration transaction is not a service offered by either Kansas or Missouri AAA.
I was not aware of that. So they don't offer registration or tag service, which is all that is needed here? They do in PA, I didn't realize it wasn't universal. That's a shame, its a real convenience. There are other tag service sores in PA too, but hey're more expensive. Are there no tag service places in Missouri at all?
I know that NJ and PA handle tags totally different ways. NJ has DMV offices scattered about the state. PA has one office in Harrisburg and lots of little tag stores that will process the paperwork for you and get the tags for you. NJ has no (or next to no) tag services other than car dealerships.
No idea how it works in MO. Ever state has their own ways. In NJ, the title has a place on the back to act as a bill of sale.
Originally Posted By: JayhawkRoy
Supervising or conducting a sales or registration transaction is not a service offered by either Kansas or Missouri AAA.
I was not aware of that. So they don't offer registration or tag service, which is all that is needed here? They do in PA, I didn't realize it wasn't universal. That's a shame, its a real convenience. There are other tag service sores in PA too, but hey're more expensive. Are there no tag service places in Missouri at all?
I know that NJ and PA handle tags totally different ways. NJ has DMV offices scattered about the state. PA has one office in Harrisburg and lots of little tag stores that will process the paperwork for you and get the tags for you. NJ has no (or next to no) tag services other than car dealerships.
No idea how it works in MO. Ever state has their own ways. In NJ, the title has a place on the back to act as a bill of sale.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I'm kind of street smart. Since the price is so low, if he tries any kind hijinks I'd probably abort the sale. One thing he may try to do is short you on the price when he shows up by walking around the car and nitpicking it. Don't fall for it. Simply state it's an x year old car for a cheap price that runs. Any lower and you'll take it to have it scrapped.
Good point. Don't fall for any "Oh, I only brought $200 with me" [censored]
And put the extra [censored] in the trunk and tell him it's a package deal. Have to take it all.
I'm kind of street smart. Since the price is so low, if he tries any kind hijinks I'd probably abort the sale. One thing he may try to do is short you on the price when he shows up by walking around the car and nitpicking it. Don't fall for it. Simply state it's an x year old car for a cheap price that runs. Any lower and you'll take it to have it scrapped.
Good point. Don't fall for any "Oh, I only brought $200 with me" [censored]
And put the extra [censored] in the trunk and tell him it's a package deal. Have to take it all.
One thing I did when I sold the 1999 Accord was meet the buyer at the title bureau. He already looked at with his college aged daughter. They were excellent buyers and straight shooters. Unlike some others I dealt with pertaining to the sale.
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I'm kind of street smart. Since the price is so low, if he tries any kind hijinks I'd probably abort the sale. One thing he may try to do is short you on the price when he shows up by walking around the car and nitpicking it. Don't fall for it. Simply state it's an x year old car for a cheap price that runs. Any lower and you'll take it to have it scrapped.
Good point. Don't fall for any "Oh, I only brought $200 with me" [censored]
And put the extra [censored] in the trunk and tell him it's a package deal. Have to take it all.
He is driving 3+ hours from Springfield, MO. I doubt he wants to go home without the car to try to save a few bucks. It is underpriced as it is. He knows that.
The back seat is folded down and trunk and back seat are already full of stuff. It comes with 2 sets of tires on rims plus snow tires on rims for the front wheels, etc.
Remember, I am a BITOG member and I took the pledge:
On my honor, I will do my best, to hoard oil at all times, to buy oil on sale, and to buy more oil than I need.
I am asking a little more than scrap value, just to get rid of the car. The extra stuff should be a plus since he already has one Saturn. I have very little down time work, overseeing care of my stepfather and other stuff. I am taking everything posted to heart. I appreciate the advice.
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I'm kind of street smart. Since the price is so low, if he tries any kind hijinks I'd probably abort the sale. One thing he may try to do is short you on the price when he shows up by walking around the car and nitpicking it. Don't fall for it. Simply state it's an x year old car for a cheap price that runs. Any lower and you'll take it to have it scrapped.
Good point. Don't fall for any "Oh, I only brought $200 with me" [censored]
And put the extra [censored] in the trunk and tell him it's a package deal. Have to take it all.
He is driving 3+ hours from Springfield, MO. I doubt he wants to go home without the car to try to save a few bucks. It is underpriced as it is. He knows that.
The back seat is folded down and trunk and back seat are already full of stuff. It comes with 2 sets of tires on rims plus snow tires on rims for the front wheels, etc.
Remember, I am a BITOG member and I took the pledge:
On my honor, I will do my best, to hoard oil at all times, to buy oil on sale, and to buy more oil than I need.
I am asking a little more than scrap value, just to get rid of the car. The extra stuff should be a plus since he already has one Saturn. I have very little down time work, overseeing care of my stepfather and other stuff. I am taking everything posted to heart. I appreciate the advice.
Originally Posted By: tgrudzin
If you said $250 for the car, that a cash deal. I wouldn't take the chance and what a fraudulent cashier check or money order would look like. Write down other info, like the license plate and type of car he shows up in. In case you need that info.
For that price, it should scrap to a junkyard for same amount or more, especially if fully drivable. Got $300 for my last junk yard car. This can uncomplicate the transaction for you as they would do everything. And you can sell the extra tires, oil, etc. separately, or give them away. $250 would be way low for a scrap car that is still road worthy.
If the buyer from 3 hrs away tries to lowball you, just tell them the tow truck is happy to come and get it for $250 as well.
If you said $250 for the car, that a cash deal. I wouldn't take the chance and what a fraudulent cashier check or money order would look like. Write down other info, like the license plate and type of car he shows up in. In case you need that info.
For that price, it should scrap to a junkyard for same amount or more, especially if fully drivable. Got $300 for my last junk yard car. This can uncomplicate the transaction for you as they would do everything. And you can sell the extra tires, oil, etc. separately, or give them away. $250 would be way low for a scrap car that is still road worthy.
If the buyer from 3 hrs away tries to lowball you, just tell them the tow truck is happy to come and get it for $250 as well.
Originally Posted By: MONKEYMAN
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I'm kind of street smart. Since the price is so low, if he tries any kind hijinks I'd probably abort the sale. One thing he may try to do is short you on the price when he shows up by walking around the car and nitpicking it. Don't fall for it. Simply state it's an x year old car for a cheap price that runs. Any lower and you'll take it to have it scrapped.
Good point. Don't fall for any "Oh, I only brought $200 with me" [censored]
And put the extra [censored] in the trunk and tell him it's a package deal. Have to take it all.
He is driving 3+ hours from Springfield, MO. I doubt he wants to go home without the car to try to save a few bucks. It is underpriced as it is. He knows that.
The back seat is folded down and trunk and back seat are already full of stuff. It comes with 2 sets of tires on rims plus snow tires on rims for the front wheels, etc.
Remember, I am a BITOG member and I took the pledge:
On my honor, I will do my best, to hoard oil at all times, to buy oil on sale, and to buy more oil than I need.
I am asking a little more than scrap value, just to get rid of the car. The extra stuff should be a plus since he already has one Saturn. I have very little down time work, overseeing care of my stepfather and other stuff. I am taking everything posted to heart. I appreciate the advice.
You never know what someone might do to save $50.
Originally Posted By: Leo99
Originally Posted By: SatinSilver
I'm kind of street smart. Since the price is so low, if he tries any kind hijinks I'd probably abort the sale. One thing he may try to do is short you on the price when he shows up by walking around the car and nitpicking it. Don't fall for it. Simply state it's an x year old car for a cheap price that runs. Any lower and you'll take it to have it scrapped.
Good point. Don't fall for any "Oh, I only brought $200 with me" [censored]
And put the extra [censored] in the trunk and tell him it's a package deal. Have to take it all.
He is driving 3+ hours from Springfield, MO. I doubt he wants to go home without the car to try to save a few bucks. It is underpriced as it is. He knows that.
The back seat is folded down and trunk and back seat are already full of stuff. It comes with 2 sets of tires on rims plus snow tires on rims for the front wheels, etc.
Remember, I am a BITOG member and I took the pledge:
On my honor, I will do my best, to hoard oil at all times, to buy oil on sale, and to buy more oil than I need.
I am asking a little more than scrap value, just to get rid of the car. The extra stuff should be a plus since he already has one Saturn. I have very little down time work, overseeing care of my stepfather and other stuff. I am taking everything posted to heart. I appreciate the advice.
You never know what someone might do to save $50.
I've always just driven a car I was selling to the buyer's house where I took the plates off and he gave me a ride home-simple.
I can see where a 3 hour drive is a bit of distance to yo-yo but hey? It's the car he wants, no? Has the buyer even test driven the car?
One thing to have done is have the guy pay you in cash and HE takes the title to the DMV and comes back for the Saturn with his own plates.
He does all the driving.
EXAMPLE: He pays you and takes the title on Monday.
You remove the plates and keep one key so you can move the car in an emergency and/or facilitate junking it.
You tell him all this.
He comes back with his own plates, you give him the other key and wave as he drives off.
Come Wednesday morning at 10:00 AM you can call the junker people.
If all that is too heavy for you then suck it up and spell out the driving duties.
Cash first-drive to his place-sign papers, remove plates-he gives you a ride home. It's still simple.
I sold a PREMIUM car (3 year old Camry with under 10,000 miles) for an original buyer. The buyer was 200 miles away.
Took the money and plates.
I got 15% (my fee) + the cost of a bus fare from Glens Falls, NY to my home. I read on the bus.
Simple.
Pennsylvania's title stores (Maryland has 'em too) are pricey and I'd bet people resent it. AAA saw a need and filled it with that "involvement service".
I can see where a 3 hour drive is a bit of distance to yo-yo but hey? It's the car he wants, no? Has the buyer even test driven the car?
One thing to have done is have the guy pay you in cash and HE takes the title to the DMV and comes back for the Saturn with his own plates.
He does all the driving.
EXAMPLE: He pays you and takes the title on Monday.
You remove the plates and keep one key so you can move the car in an emergency and/or facilitate junking it.
You tell him all this.
He comes back with his own plates, you give him the other key and wave as he drives off.
Come Wednesday morning at 10:00 AM you can call the junker people.
If all that is too heavy for you then suck it up and spell out the driving duties.
Cash first-drive to his place-sign papers, remove plates-he gives you a ride home. It's still simple.
I sold a PREMIUM car (3 year old Camry with under 10,000 miles) for an original buyer. The buyer was 200 miles away.
Took the money and plates.
I got 15% (my fee) + the cost of a bus fare from Glens Falls, NY to my home. I read on the bus.
Simple.
Pennsylvania's title stores (Maryland has 'em too) are pricey and I'd bet people resent it. AAA saw a need and filled it with that "involvement service".
I called a few yards. Pick-N-Pull low balled me at first, then would give $208. The other yard $75 and they acted like they were doing me a favor.
I put 13 years of care into this car. Had a motor installed on my Mom's one year death anniversary. Burned valve 3 on the way to work. Maybe she was looking over me.
It would be a shame that it would be parted out or in the hands of someone who does not understand a Saturn. Due to taking care of parents and being on call I needed minimal down time. Have put whatever part needed in it to make it reliable. The problem is I am getting too old to do all the work myself and don't have to since I have a new Elantra. I am paying it forward so to speak.
I talk to the buyer tonight. I will make sure he wants the oil. If not, I will be posting oil for sale on BITOG.
I put 13 years of care into this car. Had a motor installed on my Mom's one year death anniversary. Burned valve 3 on the way to work. Maybe she was looking over me.
It would be a shame that it would be parted out or in the hands of someone who does not understand a Saturn. Due to taking care of parents and being on call I needed minimal down time. Have put whatever part needed in it to make it reliable. The problem is I am getting too old to do all the work myself and don't have to since I have a new Elantra. I am paying it forward so to speak.
I talk to the buyer tonight. I will make sure he wants the oil. If not, I will be posting oil for sale on BITOG.
Originally Posted By: Kira
I've always just driven a car I was selling to the buyer's house where I took the plates off and he gave me a ride home-simple.
I can see where a 3 hour drive is a bit of distance to yo-yo but hey? It's the car he wants, no? Has the buyer even test driven the car?
One thing to have done is have the guy pay you in cash and HE takes the title to the DMV and comes back for the Saturn with his own plates.
He does all the driving.
EXAMPLE: He pays you and takes the title on Monday.
You remove the plates and keep one key so you can move the car in an emergency and/or facilitate junking it.
You tell him all this.
He comes back with his own plates, you give him the other key and wave as he drives off.
Come Wednesday morning at 10:00 AM you can call the junker people.
If all that is too heavy for you then suck it up and spell out the driving duties.
Cash first-drive to his place-sign papers, remove plates-he gives you a ride home. It's still simple.
I sold a PREMIUM car (3 year old Camry with under 10,000 miles) for an original buyer. The buyer was 200 miles away.
Took the money and plates.
I got 15% (my fee) + the cost of a bus fare from Glens Falls, NY to my home. I read on the bus.
Simple.
Pennsylvania's title stores (Maryland has 'em too) are pricey and I'd bet people resent it. AAA saw a need and filled it with that "involvement service".
That is interesting.
I work Saturday and Sunday night evening, then Monday early. Fortunately, I was off today and got caught up in my duties at home. I guess I am simple and have health issues that do not allow me to do extra stuff. I hope to get a better feel for the buyer after talking to him. So far it has been very positive with other communications.
I've always just driven a car I was selling to the buyer's house where I took the plates off and he gave me a ride home-simple.
I can see where a 3 hour drive is a bit of distance to yo-yo but hey? It's the car he wants, no? Has the buyer even test driven the car?
One thing to have done is have the guy pay you in cash and HE takes the title to the DMV and comes back for the Saturn with his own plates.
He does all the driving.
EXAMPLE: He pays you and takes the title on Monday.
You remove the plates and keep one key so you can move the car in an emergency and/or facilitate junking it.
You tell him all this.
He comes back with his own plates, you give him the other key and wave as he drives off.
Come Wednesday morning at 10:00 AM you can call the junker people.
If all that is too heavy for you then suck it up and spell out the driving duties.
Cash first-drive to his place-sign papers, remove plates-he gives you a ride home. It's still simple.
I sold a PREMIUM car (3 year old Camry with under 10,000 miles) for an original buyer. The buyer was 200 miles away.
Took the money and plates.
I got 15% (my fee) + the cost of a bus fare from Glens Falls, NY to my home. I read on the bus.
Simple.
Pennsylvania's title stores (Maryland has 'em too) are pricey and I'd bet people resent it. AAA saw a need and filled it with that "involvement service".
That is interesting.
I work Saturday and Sunday night evening, then Monday early. Fortunately, I was off today and got caught up in my duties at home. I guess I am simple and have health issues that do not allow me to do extra stuff. I hope to get a better feel for the buyer after talking to him. So far it has been very positive with other communications.
Last edited:
Why not scan the back of your title right now and post it up? Fuzz out any unique identifiers, if any.
The most important part is the seller signature... if you have that figured out, the buyer can "figure out the rest." Also check to see if you need it notarized in your state. A notary at the bank can also help you figure stuff out.
That said if the buyer is looking to flip the car, he'll demand that you leave the "buyer" part blank. This is at mostly your peril, as the car is an "ownerless zombie" until someone finally registers it.
However the "notice of sale" form you file with MO covers your end of things as far as liability goes. You can also take a digital picture of your title all filled out for your records, and save a 2nd copy of the bill of sale.
If the buyer hasn't asked for the VIN yet he is likely to show up without insurance. You could tell him that you're old fashioned, here's the VIN, show up with an insurance card or no sale.
He is also likely to have an "old plate" he'll "slap on to get home". This is at his peril as well. If the cops come knocking at your door you can say you gave him the title and key and went inside, and he must have thrown the plate on and taken off "a minute later" due to factors out of your control.
Cancel your car insurance the next full day after the sale. It protects you, so you don't want to shake it off too soon when there's some doubt. They will cover you and themselves too when you can prove you sold it "yesterday".
The most important part is the seller signature... if you have that figured out, the buyer can "figure out the rest." Also check to see if you need it notarized in your state. A notary at the bank can also help you figure stuff out.
That said if the buyer is looking to flip the car, he'll demand that you leave the "buyer" part blank. This is at mostly your peril, as the car is an "ownerless zombie" until someone finally registers it.
However the "notice of sale" form you file with MO covers your end of things as far as liability goes. You can also take a digital picture of your title all filled out for your records, and save a 2nd copy of the bill of sale.
If the buyer hasn't asked for the VIN yet he is likely to show up without insurance. You could tell him that you're old fashioned, here's the VIN, show up with an insurance card or no sale.
He is also likely to have an "old plate" he'll "slap on to get home". This is at his peril as well. If the cops come knocking at your door you can say you gave him the title and key and went inside, and he must have thrown the plate on and taken off "a minute later" due to factors out of your control.
Cancel your car insurance the next full day after the sale. It protects you, so you don't want to shake it off too soon when there's some doubt. They will cover you and themselves too when you can prove you sold it "yesterday".
I am scanning the back of the title with my eyes and can barely read the thing. The print is smallish and not very dark against a light green background. My Sherlock Holmes magnifying glass sure came in handy.
I plan to pre fill out the part of the forms I need to do but the skip date, etc in case something goes south. That is the part that I tend to stumble on.
I plan to pre fill out the part of the forms I need to do but the skip date, etc in case something goes south. That is the part that I tend to stumble on.
- Status
Similar threads
