Not enough hours to change oil

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I bought a Sears single stage snow blower about 1 month ago. I have about 2 hours on it now. Should I change the oil at end of season or store it with the factory oil still in it till have 5 hours running time next season. I'm leaning to changing it before storage and again early next season. Seems prudent this way. Thanks.
After I proofread this it seems too easy.
 
Does your single stage snowblower use 2 cycle oil? Mine did.

What does the owners manual say?

Usually a two stage snowblower needs the oil changed.

Regards, JC.
 
Either change it now, or first thing next winter. I like the idea of using fresh oil at the beginning of every season, so for my OPE - after the initial break-in, I usually change as soon as the season starts.
 
I would probably change it out even though you haven't hit the 5 hours.

I'd change it out now, but wouldn't bother changing it again before next season, just run it. If you mean that you plan to run it for a few hours, then change it, that's probably not a bad idea. An extra early oil change to get the break in particles out sounds good to me. I feel that filterless OPE benefits more to early changes (at least in my mind).

I think you answered your own question.
 
NO other way than:
Fresh oil
before storage

and

Run what's in it next season.

Nothing is Happening to the oil over summer. NOTHING.

Just put ODPE/HDEO in there. NO PCMO!
 
I've been recommending oil changes on the Chinese engine single stage MTD/Craftsman with the 179cc engine at the 2-5 hour mark. Every one of the 8 we sold this year that took us up on the first complimentary oil change was showing lots of shavings in the oil on the first change.
 
Originally Posted By: PhilsSmallEngine
I've been recommending oil changes on the Chinese engine single stage MTD/Craftsman with the 179cc engine at the 2-5 hour mark. Every one of the 8 we sold this year that took us up on the first complimentary oil change was showing lots of shavings in the oil on the first change.


+1
 
How much oil is in it. 1.5 Quarts? 2 Quarts? Change it twice a year. We are not talking about a 12 quart capacity diesel here. If the book calls for 10W-30/30 weight, then I recommend Amsoil 4 Stroke Small Engine Oil. I have been using it in all my small engines for years. Everything is still running like a top.
 
Go to a Payday loan center and get enough cash to do both changes. The amount you'll need could get into double digits and most people don't have that much cash sitting around. An extra oil change might help to get rid of junk produced by many of these small air cooled engines. Then all you have to do is worry about making the monthly payments to the Payday loan center. Problem solved.
 
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Go to a Payday loan center and get enough cash to do both changes. The amount you'll need could get into double digits and most people don't have that much cash sitting around. An extra oil change might help to get rid of junk produced by many of these small air cooled engines. Then all you have to do is worry about making the monthly payments to the Payday loan center. Problem solved.


You might need to hang out with different people. About 12 million people in the US use payday loan centers and there's about 320 million in the US. That's about 3.75% of the population. Even unemployment is higher at 5.5%. There's still another 1/3 that doesn't live paycheck to paycheck.
 
I have a Troy Bilt 24" sb with the 179cc engine, bought new this past October. It got it's first real good work out with the heavy Thanksgiving snow. It was used real hard for about a hour. I then changed the ff out with Shell Rotella T 10W-30. It got about 7 more hours use this season. I'm going to change it before I store it. Then I'll be good for all next season or about 25+/- hours. When I drained the ff I was expecting some really nasty black oil with lots of metal in it. Surprisingly it was fairly clean, nothing like what my B&S generator looked like when I drained it's ff out after 1-2 hours use. The Snow blower it has the drain on the rear of the blower. After letting it drain on level ground I tilted it back and got quite a bit more out. It took exactly 20 oz to refill with the tilting.

Whimsey
 
The reason we change oil on time at 50 hours/ before storage is to get acidic combustion byproducts out, and fuel dilution on small engines.

The reason we do small engines at 5 hours is to get the break-in glitter out.

It'll store just fine on 2 hour old oil. Do it in the fall.
 
Thank you all of you for your answers. They have given me insight about proper oils for the blower. After I posted my initial enquiry, I thought it was a no brainer of a post. As they say, " There are no dumb Questions. "
This was my first but I have been following the site for nearly a year. I enjoy reading the posts and the humour that goes with it. There is a great bunch of people here. I'll be 84 Easter Sunday. When the snow is deep the blower will be a great asset. Thanks again. Drosselmier.
 
2 hours on a brand new engine is not "not enough" hours. You could/should change it any time after the first hour mark. OPE engines are built rather crudely and they shed a LOT of metal in the first few hours. This abrasive shrapnel makes a very poor lubricant.

This was the oil from my Ariens after just 1.5 hours:

http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee149...zps40854167.jpg

Change it now and change it after 4-5 hours of use into the next season. Then change it about 25-30 hours ... or once per season.

Best of luck to you with your new machine.
 
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